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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. The original Porsche coolant (green and pink) may be mixed without problems.
  2. Have the window treated with a silicone containing detailing product to start with, if the result is not satisfactory, replace the seals.
  3. One small detail, if your car has a Dutch licence plate, you never past true the APK. You need all the parts including, headlight washers, height sensors, etc. and they should work as well. I would first inform me to the competent authorities.
  4. The fault code should be stored in the dash (combi instrument) memory, i would do a test drive with a professional oil pressure gauge installed to have a more clear look what's really happen. If the pressures are normal (directly measured from the engine with the prof. gauge) check the wiring's, connectors and dash.
  5. I would contact DURAMETRIC (Owen Sutton), go to their website. They are very help full to solve your problem.
  6. The best way is to build them out and let them test in a BOSCH center. The PIWIS can switch each injector one by one in and out, but this is a test to see if the injector works or not, not to see if he works correctly.
  7. I would check the wiring (1 wire) from the compressor to the car body to start with, he probably rubs against the car body or something when accelerating hard by the (too much?) tilting movement of the engine. If you can not find anything there, then check the wiring's, connectors and switches between engine and car body.
  8. The recommended replacement time (low mileage cars) is the same as for spark plugs: 4 years. Hope it helps.
  9. Place the steering wheel in the straightforward position, loosen the nut completely, place the nut back on the column and tighten the nut 3 turns, pull the wheel quick and alternate left - right harder backwards with both hands, the wheel should come off now.
  10. I would start with the updated coolant cap, available at the dealer or Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealers cost button on top of the page). A good chance that it's fixed.
  11. Only Tiptronic cars use a water valve to create a coolant circulation in the Tiptr. water/oil heat exchanger when needed. A leaking valve happens occasionally, but is not common. The clamps can be removed with appropriate pliers according to the actual possition of the clamps. Metal water pipes have always rubber hoses on both ends, if you loosen the metal pipes mounting bolts, you can move the pipes more than enough. Don't forget to squeeze the rubber hoses where it is easiest and as close as possible to the valve to reduce the amount of coolant loss.
  12. I never have to replace worn out pads or rotors on daily drivers, public roads, non track cars equipped with 2 generation PCCB. The oldest one was approx. 3 years old with 90. 000 Km. on the dash. Anyway they have a long life.
  13. I assume you meant the Tiptronic cooling water valve, if you squeeze the hoses closest to the valve with a clamp or a long nose vise grip, there will be only a small amount of coolant runs out. Replace the valve and top up the coolant level. No need to drain the complete cooling system.
  14. Perhaps the coolant cap is defective, i would give it a try with an other one first.
  15. A no more appropriate amount of AC refrigerant in the system, show up the same symptoms in the front condensers.
  16. Yes it is the AC drain tube on your pic.
  17. I dont know how old your car is, but on the bumper inside of some MY is a drawing/pre-cut present.
  18. Tiptronic cars have not launch control, the car's behavior is normal (997-1), an input signal from the brakes and a signal from the accelerator at the same time is considered by the DME as an implausible signal, try it out while driving, on the accelerator and brake at the same time, you should have a warning on the dash.
  19. The sensor is a good indicator if the pads are installed with new rotors at the same time, used rotors with, for example a outer edge of 2mm, will cut of the sensor 2mm earlier and it looks like the pads have only used 3/4 or less of there friction material.
  20. There was a TB in 06 (ROW) concerning shift lever mechanism replacement, the TB was for 997, but 987 suffers with the same issue. I would consult an OPC near you.
  21. The leaking oil comes out via the soft top water drains on a cabrio, which are in front of the rear wheels. Sounds logic.
  22. The rubber bellows, on the car floor, where the column passes is a source of creaking sounds, you can lubricate with silicon spray. Other sources are, the column bearings (replaceable) and the steering rack top bearing (not replaceable - bearing not available separately)
  23. Looks like a door lock failure, usually it ends up with a replacement.
  24. The rear ones are a little harder to remove, cause the lack of room to hold, with a key, the top nut on the uni ball, but perfectly feasible.
  25. Yes, the front ones are piece of cake.
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