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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. The differential part of the Tiptronic use a manual gearbox/differential oil, 75w-90 should be fine, so certainly do not use ATF for the differential part. Only the older Tiptronic have a drain plug, you can suck out the old oil using the filler plug in case you decide to service the differential oil on a younger type.
  2. Sounds like a faulty release bearing to me, concerning the coolant smell, as Loren says, use a pressure tester to find the leak.
  3. Brake light switch, MAF, throttle body, ABS unit and faulty wiring/connectors, sensors, all work on ABS/PSM system. I would check for fault codes to start with, that is ultimately the cheapest way to go.
  4. Such fractures occur in all brands of engines, they are not Porsche specific, fortunately not much. I have have seen this on the air coolers also during the years. Unfortunately it occurred to you.
  5. @ Black Stig, one of the reasons concerning the problem you describe can be found by the camshaft sensor(s) or crankshaft sensor, therefore a PIWIS diagnostic tool is needed to look for fault codes and further examinations
  6. Read this discussion http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/31161-brake-booster-faulty/ good chance that the solution is in there.
  7. I would be an annual oil change + oil filter done, a visual inspection of tires/pressure, lights, fluid levels, brakes, etc. The rest of the maintenance schedule can be done at the recommended mileage or time period, whichever comes first.
  8. On a factory rebuild M96/97 engine is a paper label, removed by the importer or dealer and attached with the other documents to complete their administration, there is indicated included the name of the laborer, the workshop manager and the site. It shows that they are build in East Europe mostly by women, which is not to say that they are inferior or superior, after all Cayenne car body's are also build in the Czech Republic and brought by train to be finished. That's just a different approach than "hand build and better than new" they meet the established factory quality standards but no more or less.
  9. 5W-40 is in COLD conditions thicker than 0W-40 but thinner than 10W-40 5W-40 is in HOT conditions thicker than 5W-30 but thinner than 5W-50 It is perfectly normal that the oil becoming thicker in COLD than in HOT conditions whatever the index is.
  10. Put a wide belt around the tire (X large or two normal linked to each other), pull the belt(s) together while you let the air out. The tire will return to his original size.
  11. http://www.johnsoncontrols.co.uk/publish/gb/en/products/automotive_experience/Electronics/homelink_/homelink_microsites/Aktuelle_Fahrzeuge/Fahrzeuge_Porsche.html Try the instructions directly from the manufacturer's website, it's much more clearly explained.
  12. Since production year mid. 2003 all Porsche Europe ROW new cars are covered under Euro4 norm, which means that they use 1 pre cat. and 1 post cat. O² sensor on each cylinder bank as well. Since production year mid. 2009 is Euro5 norm in effect. On all these cars is not possible to run a Euro3 program.
  13. Sorry, it must be "It is perfectly possible that Bank2 just the error limit exceeded"
  14. The MAF only runs a specific fault code if he shown electric/electronic interferences. A MAF affected by polluted air (dirty) can show codes as you have, therefore the dealer should make, with his PIWIS diagnostic tool in "Actual Values" mode, a comparison between Bank1 and Bank2. It is perfectly possible that Bank1 just the error limit exceeded (CEL on) and Bank1 just yet. Only on the basis of these data, the dealer can decide what to do.
  15. LHD cars: bank1 = passengers side TWC: three way catalyst The problem sensor is located in front of the cat, bank1, passengers side. The headlight issue is probably due by the build in servo motor, better use a PIWIS tester to do some tests and pinpoint the problem.
  16. Perfectly true that in case of cold starts with thick oil, the valve will react to ensure proper oil flow, the used filter paper surface is not porous enough to let pass the thick oil in a certain period (flow problem). Filters with more porous paper will have that problem less or not. The main oil pressure valve, in the oil pump, is most of the time responsible for a blown oil filter canister (seized or blocked oil pressure valve piston, up to 7Kg/cm² and more.)
  17. indeed, this is what i meant.
  18. I would take a look in to the upper engine mount first (bank 1 cylinder head), they are well known to fail.
  19. dcdrechsel talked about the camshaft deviation chains IMHO, since it fulfils the proper functioning of this system in doubt, according to his previous posts.
  20. The pressure relief valve act normal, when hot: valve on full lift, when cold: valve down. The valve will remain down (with hot engine) if the pressure cap is leaking or in case of a relatively large leak elsewhere.
  21. Replace the coolant tank pressure cap with the latest update to start with, if you cant find a leak.
  22. It is not possible to activate bank 2 camshaft deviation on older cars with a diagnostic tool, you should do the test manually. Let the engine idle, remove the actuator connector and put 12V+ and ground from a spare battery on the 2 pins connector (actuator wire), you should have the same lumpy idle as on bank 1 now, which means both actuators are fine, if not, check the actuator bank 2. I would replace both adjuster chains and plastic chain guides actually after 116.000 miles. Now fix the crankshaft and the camshafts bank 1, to check the timing bank 1 with the special tools, rotate the crankshaft 360° and do the same on bank 2, adjust if necessary.
  23. If your car is equipped with an automatic downward tilting passenger outside mirror when in reverse, take the signal from there. If not, the reverse light switch wiring on top of the gearbox seems to be your nearest option.
  24. European heat range system (like Bosch) is upwards based: Bosch range 7 is heater than 6 and colder than 8. NGK used the opposite system: NGK range 6 is heater than 7 and colder than 5. So do not compare them in the same way.
  25. Probably the clutch pedal cant make the full stroke without help of the power assistance, or the floor carpet is stuck between the pedal and the car floor, the carpet possition is easier to check, unfortunately to check the assistance, the engine should be running. Let the engine idle for a couple of minutes till the clutch pedal act normal, shut off the ignition, operate the pedal approx. 7 - 10 times. If the pedal become noticeable harder earlier than 7 times, replace the spherical unit on top of the clutch slave cylinder (leaking membrane inside)
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