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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. For so far as i know the DFI system is working well, programming ( injection timing, etc. ) injectors, high pressure pump and DFI related parts gives no more problems as expected, in contrary it is successful. The engines use a little more oil than the IFI natural aspirated engines. So far, so good.
  2. Chuck As you know turbo pressure plates are different in construction as the water cooled Carrera's, they looks and use approx. the same system as the former air cooled engines ( the pressure plate is pulled by the bearing, bearing is spring loaded installed in the middle of the plate at the end of the diaphragm fingers, and not pushed ) I noticed during the years, that in most cases of vibrations in the clutch pedal, both fingers ends of the release lever that grabs the release bearing get a small different thickness by use which result in vibrations. If you replace the bearing and the lever on a clutch job as well, you never will have a vibration problem.
  3. You need a electric diagram i guess, comfort control or something. Unfortunately i cant help you out, we don't have chimes, drums or trumpets in our cars :)
  4. I mean photo 1 ( before cleaning ) an oil spot is obvious visible on the left condenser, i should take a look if i was you.
  5. jpflip Looks like the left airco condenser is leaking !
  6. It is not possible to replace PCM 2 or 2.1 by PCM 3. It is even not possible to replace or retrofit PCM 3 Low by PCM 3 High, look out if you order a new car !
  7. Looks like the door window is out of adjustment front<>rear and up<>down, i have no idea why you can open the door on the out side and not at the inside without hitting the rear side window, it is the same handling after all.
  8. If the on board volt meter shows values above 15 volt and some idiot lights comes on, there is probably a issue with the voltage regulator in the alternator. Issues as this are not always present, i suggest to check the fault codes which are linked to Voltage above or under the specs values.
  9. The window in the upper possition, remove the copper colored plate ( wire rooter ), disconnect the lock > outside door handle connection, there is room enough to get the lock out.
  10. If you mean the carpet trim behind the rear seats where the DME is located, grab the middle of the vertical part and lift a little so that the left and right side part comes free, than pull.
  11. Use only the bit and a very well used 6 mm open key ( approx. 6.5 mm ), it takes only 5 minutes.
  12. The switch is build in the lock and not available separately, a new lock is recommended. If you are able to get in the lock and look what's wrong, perhaps a stuck mechanical part, and you can fix it, it's up to you.
  13. You will need the PIWIS tester to be sure, most possible faults are: front top central locking mechanism ( with the hook ) and rear side flaps micro switches.
  14. If you can use someones Porsche tester, than you can check the switches one by one to find the faulty one.
  15. I cant speak for US cars and the mods there are done on the car, but most of the European versions ( depends on country ) have no dash light if the switch is in auto possition or on day driving light.
  16. There is no coolant change required under normal conditions. ( no intermix oil-coolant by engine or heat exchanger failure )
  17. If the car is equipped with the PDCC ( Porsche Dynamic Chassis Control ) option, a slight knocking noise is licit. Depends on the intensity of the noise.
  18. The squeak is coming from the clutch mechanism ( release bearing- diaphragm ) mostly in combination with a hard clutch pedal feeling. Two options: install a new clutch or try live with the squeak.
  19. Cylinder liners are not available separately, it means a new cylinder block. Wait for the dealer's advise and rapport back later on what the real trouble and the solution is.
  20. Just one single Torkx, don't forget to adjust the emergency brake shoes on the minimum setting before removing the rear rotors, and readjust with the new ones till proper specs.
  21. It works a lot easier with the engine out of the car, they need the car for 1 week but they works not continually on it i assume. Let check the noisy cylinder liner inside/piston with a devise before dismantling the cylinder head, there are Turbo's with cylinder liner damage well known and it is the same noise as a faulty lifter. Hope the best for you.
  22. Lock the shifter in manual possition, you can use the steering wheel buttons than without automatic up shifting after 8 seconds.
  23. The car needs no alignment and you can tighten the bolds with the car on a lift, unfortunately i have no torque specs. for the bolts here ( holidays )
  24. There is no real fix, replacing is the best option but you can try with some glue and look what it gives in the future.
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