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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. Pentosin CHF 11 S (green) is replaced by CHF 202, this explains the fluid color change, the low power steering fluid level is mostly due by lack of service, sometimes a steering rack leak, take a look inside the dust bellows, they must be dry inside. Top up the level with one of the two mentioned fluids (may be mixed) and keep an eye on it.
  2. Fluid change was (during the pre-production period) only when a part of the system needs replacement, could be possible that this point is revised.
  3. OEM bolt is a multi-point, as wvicary suggest, do not mix up multi-points with Torx for your own good.
  4. The fluid reservoir is located under the left engine compartment trim, the reservoir should be replaced together with the fluid, cause a build in filter. It is extremely important to keep the system free of air bubbles (check the fluid level). Running the tandem pump (steering assist pump/PDCC) with less of fluid or air bubbles in the circuit destroy the fragile pump within minutes. The fluid is PENTOSIN CHF 202 and the bleeding can only performed by PIWIS.
  5. Cayenne dashboards, (especially the older MY) are a inexhaustible source of rattles and squeaks, difficult to locate from distance.
  6. The car should start with the steel key's, most part of the Cayenne (Kessy) owners use only the steel key's instead of the plastic dummy, cause the steel one (with transmitter) is needed in the ignition lock area anyway, to start the car. Off topic: Kessy and non Kessy Cayenne use the same control box, only the MY and programming is different (EU).
  7. VAG and PORSCHE use different diagnostic protocols.
  8. A slight manual help is needed till approx. half way open. (Cayenne gen. 1)
  9. Check for power and ground on the top and car connector, if there is no power on the connector and the fuse is in good shape, could be possible you disconnected a wire somewhere in the dash. If not, check the wiring and defroster on the hardtop.
  10. Bushing, crankshaft axial bearings, ... ?
  11. This question is already answered a little lower on the page "Fitting a hardtop on a 987"
  12. If the valve fails due a vacuum leak it remains open, the gearbox is fully cooled and the engine temp. drops from approx. 85°C till approx. 70°C while driving.
  13. Looks like the cooling water channel cover (metal) seal which is leaking, easy to replace, with drained engine (cooling water)
  14. Looks like the DME is already programmed twice, once in the factory and once thereafter, for whatever reason.
  15. OEM front strut top bearings are plug and play, no extra lubrication before installing is needed.
  16. Remove the electric part of the switch and try again, if everything feels good now, replace only the electric part, if not replace the complete switch.
  17. P1128 DME on RICH threshold cyl. 1-3, means the engine runs too LEAN on cyl. 1-3. Please use the search button, this issue is already discussed.
  18. The key cut is specific to the door lock cylinder, the ignition switch in contrary, is generic. Here is, the "build in" the remote transponder, which must be programmed to the car by the dealer, involved to unlock the steering wheel and the release of the immobilizer. So you got it approx. half true.
  19. I'm with LemmyCoution.
  20. If the car is equipped with a manual transmission, when the noise is present, push in the clutch pedal and check if the noise is still present or go's away.
  21. Sounds like a disturbed shift cable (forwards-backwards) adjustment, as "phillipj" said, there exists a special adjustment tool to solve the problem.
  22. I would start with a check up by PIWIS diagnostic tool, which have more possibilities. As you said, MAF, throttle body, brake light switch, ABS unit, steering angle sensor, centrifugal sensor, fuses, connectors , wiring's and more, are all connected to PSM.
  23. Pic. 1 shows one way valve (pulls out), Pic. 2 shows connector via intermediate part to line coming from engine compartment. In fact my question was, what's happen with the vacuum operated systems, brake booster, canister purge, etc. which are build for atmospheric engines hoes create vacuum, and receives with a charger, pressure. Agree that even a charged engine create vacuum on idle, but no longer on load (pressure), can the potential one way valves, build in the systems, hold the pressure without damage? Is there enough vacuum present in the booster to guarantee a reasonable brake assistance while driving, which was the reason why Porsche mounted a separate vacuum pump on the later engines, even the atmospheric ones. I can imagine that the pressure delivered by the "charger" comes very low, with the standard camshafts (profile and timing), injectors, etc. and the lack of a over boost valve, but it's still weird to me.
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