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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/tutorials/article/59-diy-throttle-body-cleaning/ it's a 996 DIY but is essentially the same as 997. There are special MAF cleaning products on the market but have not my preference associated with the production process of a MAF, anyway you are free to try it. Success.
  2. Check " Porsche Parts At Dealer Cost " on top of this page.
  3. When the switch is placed in his bracket, the brake pedal should be at rest, push not the the pedal simultaneously otherwise the adjusting will not properly set. The brake lights should be on before any brake pressure is build up.
  4. On ROW cars, the ignition should be ON, while the battery is replaced, otherwise you will have indeed alarm problems.
  5. Still a minor correction, every OPC in West Europe is required to buy any special tool of any type of Porsche at Porsche Germany or his Representative importer. The main reason way they prefer to install a rebuild (when the warranty is expired) is the pricing, they have a nice benefit, 100% risk free for them plus another 2 years warranty paid by the factory. However, they can certainly do it and the tools would be available to. Eastern Europe (Roumania) would of course be a different story i don't know that.
  6. I would start cleaning the throttle body, and see if there is a change in cold RPM behaviour. As long there is no fault code on the dash, and there is no diagnostic tool available to read out the DME in "Actual Values" mode, it still a guess.
  7. Try to locate the source of the noise with a stethoscope or something, since the engine produce the same noise upwards with the engine RPM and without the serpentine belt installed, i would take a look on the rear of the engine, bell housing area, i still distrust the release bearing/clutch assy.
  8. Do you have the same noise with the clutch pedal pressed in? If there is a difference, check clutch, release bearing and gearbox.
  9. Read this topic: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/36836-causes-to-rotor-warping/ it can help.
  10. Iv 'e experienced that OEM rotors, mounted on hubs completely free of rust, gives the best result.
  11. Start at the beginning: Fuel delivery (pumps)? Spark? If neither of them, check crankshaft sensor, connectors, wiring's and fuses. If all goes well you will still have a diagnostic tool for further investigation.
  12. At best, a faulty AOS. Fingers crossed.
  13. I suspect that the tires are the right size ? As the tire sizes are not correct, a Tiptronic will react weird (final drive incorrectly against programmed shift points)
  14. Each dealer can order a lock cylinder according to the VIN # so you can keep the original key. If i was you i would first see what the problem is right, before any parts ordered you will need a confirmation, a mistake on my part is still possible, i have no crystal ball to consult neither.
  15. The system is electric and the sensor is located below the intake manifold, around the middle of the engine block.
  16. The mechanical connection between the lock cylinder and lock mechanism will be demolished, the connector looks like a mini version of an oar. You can reach the problem area by removing the inner door trim.
  17. All 997 combi instruments are specifically programed to the car, when installing a combi instrument from another car, the cluster must be reprogrammed to the car to avoid weird phenomena.
  18. You will have to read Tiptronic error codes first, without codes it's a guess.
  19. Indeed does not matter, they can be reused. Save some money.
  20. Randy, read my post, a little higher in this topic, again thoroughly.
  21. Both air conditioning tubes runs there on the passenger side, they get easily damaged when tinkering with a jack or something, and more dangerous for personal accidents.
  22. I do not think it is possible to obtain the same result, the exhaust system is a totally different construction.
  23. Start with removing the electrical portion on the rear of the ignition switch (2 screws). If the situation remains the same, you can still remove the ignition switch afterwards.
  24. You can give it a try with an endoscope, if you have one available..
  25. It will probably be an electrical problem, fuses, wiring, connectors inside the A-pillar, window lift motor, etc., let it well checked by a car electrician .
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