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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. Depends on the cars MY and the used ABS sensor type, hubs equipped with a toothed ring use an induction sensor, in this case there should no problem with the bearing. Later cars use a different type of ABS sensor and a bearing which is magnetic on one side, the magnetic side should be on the inner side of the carrier. ( closest to the measurement surface of the sensor )
  2. Find all posts of member " 1schoir " or P.M. and you will find more than one solution to solve your problem.:welcome:
  3. A cracked diaphragm spring, inside the pressure plate, is a shortcoming which occurs occasionally. Also something to consider.
  4. Just close the lock with a screwdriver, it is the simplest and quickest solution.
  5. The antenna amplifier is located on the right A-pillar, behind the trim which is easy to remove. No idea of the U.S. price but can not cost much.
  6. P0430 (catalytic converter conversion too low bank 2 = cyl. 3 - 6) refers to the cat. condition and not to the sensors. The engine runs on a pre - programmed limping home system that ignore the actual values if the MIL is on. Hope it helps.
  7. The crankshaft position (TDC) sensor, DME and fuel pump relays, electrical portion of the ignition switch are suspect with those symptoms, there are still other causes possible but occurs less frequently. A PIWIS or similar diagnostic tool could help with their fault finding program as well.
  8. I would start with thoroughly cleaning the throttle body, and see what it gives as result. How to can be found in the discussions 986/7 and 996/7.
  9. High pressure refers in most cases to an obstruction in the system, dryer/filter, nozzle valve block in front of the evaporator, could be frozen water by humidity in the system as well.
  10. 1) Are there bulbs replaced, if yes, with the right ones? 2) Are there modifications done on the tail light wiring? Check the wiring and the brake light switch. 3) Check the connectors, especially ground points. There you maybe start with.
  11. Tracking system is a security item, please contact your local Porsche dealer in Romania for further information.
  12. # 3 is the right way to go, the way we had to work was as followed: clean the crankshaft contact surface with a polish (Never Dull or similar product available in Harley - Davidson shops) / install with special tools the new seal (dry) / let sit the seal and the tools for 10 minutes / remove the special tools. Never had problems with subsequent leakage.
  13. The fault is most probably in the instrument cluster itself, try with a spare one, have it repaired or buy an new one. The spare and new instrument cluster must be programmed on your car with a PIWIS diagnostic tool. Success.
  14. It seems that the lighter itself is the problem, replace the lighter and you will be fine.:welcome:
  15. The plate is attached to the car body with plastic clips/nails, you must remove the plate upwards. This is hard, the clamps are very tight and the risk of damage / deformation is large, so be careful.
  16. I would return the car to stock if i ware you, under the circumstances you describe gearbox malfunction will happen soon.
  17. You have to remove the trim first, 2 Allen bolts, 5mm relatively deep hidden behind both small caps, loosen 3 to 4 strokes, the switches comes out along the inner side.
  18. Do a shock absorber test, it may be that one of the left shock absorbers performs less than the others, hence less pressure on the road in curves at speed result in PSM intervention (spinning wheel, inside curve)
  19. Yes, use a small amount of rubber friendly lubricant on the inner side of the bushings, otherwise they will squeak after a while.
  20. Check the hydraulic fluid level and inspect both hydraulic pumps/levers left and right for leaks in first place, do a search this problem has already discussed here several times.
  21. Are you sure that the multi-V belt is well and in place?
  22. 20W-50 is much too thick in COLD conditions, 5W-50 is a better option and also available, but not approved, in Racing VR1 by Valvoline, if you like that brand. It is possible that the engine eventually is bothered by a 20W-50 oil on long term. Hope you can use the lift at the same price to do a engine replacement, false economy IMHO.
  23. The pedal behaviour as you describe, is left with an original brake system, is mostly caused by a faulty booster . With the master brake cylinder removed from the booster (2 nuts - brake lines can stay in place) you can inspect the inner side of the booster, check for rust and water traces. If traces are present, replace.
  24. Have you already checked the cylinder walls with a borescope, some engines suffer with cylinder wall damage. The knocking noise produced by this issue is the same as a faulty lifter. I would do that before stripping the engine or replacing parts.
  25. All you need is a PIWIS diagnostic tool to check the system and actuate the relevant servos. After repair you can enjoy again.
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