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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. Since it is a C4, with saddlebag fuel tank, there will be a calibration must be carried out. By the different design of the fuel tank, shall C4/Turbo and GT2 still be fully fueled and not with a few liters, what will surely happened. It is increasingly important attention to that.
  2. In fact resembles a classic oil transmitter problem, at least if the right oil viscosity is used.
  3. I do not know if there is already a modification has taken place on your car, 987 MY 05/06, the piston of the oil pressure system may make noise at approx. 2000 RPM especially with cold engine. There is a new design provided since 2006. It may well be that this is the problem.
  4. Agree with Richard, all EU-spec. 986/987/996/997 are equipped with alarm siren, you have to switch the ignition on before disconnecting the battery.
  5. If the MAF is not defective on the build in electronic circuit, there will be no specific MAF error code. Therefor the use of a diagnostic device as PIWIS or similar is recommended, they can follow the process of the combustion in "Actual Values" mode and detect the source of the problem as well. As said cleaning the MAF (and throttle body, why not) does no harm and can be a cheap solution.
  6. If the CEL is not illuminated in such circumstances a faltering MAF can be one of the causes. Clean the MAF with a special cleaner and try again. If the result is not satisfactory, use a PIWIS or similar test/diagnostic tool to have a look in to the actual values and error codes of the engine management.
  7. The control arm is the one which is fork-shaped on the wheel side.
  8. Fortunate that it is the neck pillow of your wife and not yours. I would still wait to replace the blower until it fails, suggest that the old one remains good, you can sell back the new one. Clean the drain holes properly as well so there no water remains in the housing.
  9. Knocking or rattle under the circumstances as you describe is usually the control arm(s) the culprit. It is a very slight misalignment of the uni ball, practically not felt by hand. Replacement is the best option.
  10. You need a diagnostic/test tool as PIWIS or similar for system testing and to trace error codes, it could be a stuck air flap, loose or broken rod, faulty servomotor, etc. without a diagnostic tool it's still a guess.
  11. Or a bad clutch switch (brake switch for Tiptronic) etc., as Loren suggest check for error codes first.
  12. Only C4 - Turbo have need to be calibrated cause their specific fuel tank design (saddlebag) and fuel sender/pump unit possition inside the tank. C2 - Boxster and other rear wheel drive Porsche's have a more classic fuel tank design with the fuel sender/pump unit on the bottom of the tank, therefor a calibration is unnecessary.
  13. jpflip, the later on 996 Carrera use also those clips but have a different size, perhaps there is a misunderstanding in this matter.
  14. The car is may be equipped with a supplemental lighting in the storage compartment of the door trim.
  15. There is a leak in the ABS block itself, that happens sometimes, fortunately not much. I have no knowledge of repair possibilities, this is probably a new block. Check BOSCH for factory rebuild parts, if they exist. I have trouble with the second question, i can't see any connection between the brake booster(vacuum) and the ABS block(hydraulic), not literally and not technically.
  16. Yes, 996 AOS is partially (TOP portion) heated by cooling water.
  17. Two beeps means an alarm system problem, not an open zone. You need to read out the error code(s) with a diagnostic tool as PIWIS or similar to analyse the problem(s), otherwise it becomes a complete guess.
  18. Clean the throttle body thoroughly to start with, clear the codes, try again and see what it gives is my advice. It is easier to work step by step than to throw everything together. Success.
  19. I can't more than agree with JFP over the full post, these are indeed expensive, unnecessary and trouble making non-things, indirectly dictated by the hands of irresponsible car users.
  20. Just pull the valve out of the grommet, use a bit of silicon spray to make it easier.
  21. Oil in the connector and wiring harness disturbs communication Tip. versus control box, with sometimes permanent damage, check the source of the leak and repair ASAP is my advice.
  22. If i were you, i would with a diagnostic tool as PIWIS, the actual values and error codes, if any, checked. It seems to me that the high idle RPM is too high for too long, as well as the difference between both ( 1100 versus 620 RPM ) is too large.
  23. When the slave cylinder is removed from the transmission, with the hydraulic lines still connected, there should be a high resistivity while pushing the rod back into the slave cylinder. I would go for a check of the hydraulic system in first place.
  24. It is usual to replace the seal, to avoid problems as leaking, and have to do all the work over again. Have you ever replaced a torque converter? Pay special attention to the different and separate, but collinear splines, both on the shaft as in the interior of the converter, they must aligned all the way. Check and measure the height of the converter relative to the bell housing before they are separated, this is very important not to ruin the Tiptronic.
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