Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

RFM

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,645

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

 Content Type 

Everything posted by RFM

  1. RFM
    The clutch hydraulic system on a TT is filled up with PENTOSIN hydraulic fluid, look out with that. The canister is located under the trim on the left of the battery. If a bleeding of the clutch system is not necessary, let it like it is.
  2. RFM
    You cant, the poly-V belt is equipped with a automatic tightener. You can replace the belt and the rollers in case of noise, check the alternator, water pump and steering servo pump as well.
  3. RFM
    The CD player is defective, there are some options anyway: OPC - new or rebuild unit. Harmann-Becker - repair.
  4. RFM
    All 987 have a cabin filter and you can use the activated charcoal filter as well, they have the same size. The filter is located under the trim, for LHD on the right side ( battery area ) well covered behind a flap. Perhaps for RHD on the opposite side.
  5. RFM
    The headlights and direction indicators are controlled by control boxes, they have no fuses. Check fuse 3 on row C ( light switch ) to start with, if you cant find something than you need the PIWIS tester to find out.
  6. RFM
    Strange, this kind of sensor is not in direct contact with the cooling water, correct me if i'm wrong.
  7. RFM
    Strange that the 997 Turbo keeps going with the old Tiptronic.
  8. RFM
    17" is possible if the car have got no brake upgrade! I have no idea concerning the homologation in the US.
  9. RFM
    OK that's good news, great to hear.
  10. RFM
    Pull off the cloth hanger and remove the screw, pull off the trim and pull backwards. The amplifier is on the right A pillar.
  11. RFM
    The antenna amplifier is located behind the trim on the A-pillars.
  12. RFM
    Cleaning the radiators ( remove the front bumper ) is discussed many times before here on the forum, do a search. There is no oil cooler on the front, only cooling water and AC condensers.
  13. RFM
    Under normal conditions 2012/2013 as usual. The 997/2 generation is more than a face lift, complete new designed engine without intermediate shaft ( good news for the owners - bad news for the forums ), crankshaft bearings placed more at both ends ( makes the shaft stiffer and discharge the RMS ) redesigned timing chain, direct fuel injection and a lot more. Also a new double clutch gearbox which replace the Tiptronic. The car drives really fantastic.
  14. RFM
    Don't forget to check the piping under the oil filter area on top of the engine for cooling water residues too. The cooling water drips on the flat top side of the hot engine and evaporate, there are no drips on the floor in this case.
  15. RFM
    I cant help you out i'm afraid, ox. sensors in the middle of the cat. are new to me. Are you sure of this ?
  16. RFM
    Disconnect the air tube under the dash on the center, if air comes out the center module, the obstruction is situated in the air tube or the vent. orifice.
  17. RFM
    Before ordering the rear door struts ( 2x ) check the door glass struts ( the smallest ) first, they have to lift the glass perfect. The big door struts are not able to lift up the door "as new", they needs the help from the glass struts as well.
  18. RFM
    Correct, the engine is made of light alloy. The product prevents corrosion for some time.
  19. RFM
    Grommet front middle radiator fixation.
  20. RFM
    Only H3 55W bulb is recommended, 100W is too hot for the unit ( melting ) and the control box will give you fault codes on the display as well.
  21. RFM
    97boxsterred I did a search concerning your problem, try this: remove the cover on top of the engine - on the left side in the intake manifold sits a roll ( cylinder ), the roll is not visible, the roll is attached to a vacuum control element at the left rear side of the manifold, you can see it with a mirror. Check for "play" - grab the roll connection with one hand to eleminate the "play" while someone else start the engine - check for difference in noise. Please rapport back.
  22. RFM
    Warranty = exchange = rebuild = same engine as the defective one. Only if you order ( and pay ) a new engine you got the choice.
  23. RFM
    It can be done as you describes if you have any experience, it is easier to remove the strut so that you have a overview to the parts etc. especially for DIY job IMHO. Start to loose the nut partial on top of the strut to have a idea what's coming, i'm pretty sure the nut is rusty and difficult to remove with the UK rainy conditions.
  24. RFM
    Take a look if the brake booster inside is free of water, when the drains are clogged up in the battery area rain and wash water will easily penetrate in the booster with a sticking brake pedal as result. Do a search, this problem is already discussed before.
  25. RFM
    The side flap is the cause of your problem, there is something wrong with the mecanism whitch is not as simple as that, let the dealer check what exactly is wrong.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.