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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. Probably for the GAL or similar function.
  2. Read the first sentence in my previous post again.
  3. Take a look first if the hardtop quick fasteners inserts in the B pillars are already installed. ROW cars delivered without the hardtop option don't have that. Open the top completely and look straight in to the top of the B pillar, if you find a black circular plastic cover ( approx. 2 cm. diameter ), the inserts are not installed. Don't forget to order them. To remove the side vents, do a search, it is on the board already, under desnorkeling of something.
  4. P zero asimmetrico will have usually a strange wear pattern, if you have to renew them, buy P zero Rosso, if you like to stay with Pirelli or take an other approved brand. Fill up the fuel tank and let check the alignment.
  5. Does what Loren suggest, if the fault comes back replace the sensor. Bank 2 runs on the same Lukoil after all.
  6. All speedometers reed a certain % too higher/much, in speed and distance as well. There are company's which are able to calibrate the speedo/odo meters, ask the police where they go's.
  7. I should start with a coil check on cyl. 5 and 6 ( cyl. 5 is located middle left side - cyl. 6 most rear one on the left side ), if they are cracked renew all the coils. Clear the codes and try again.
  8. I did what you mentioned about physics, air is compressible hydraulic not. Anyway it's your car.
  9. Are you sure, looks like melted protection product mixed with dirt, i cant see any traces of oil on the shaft pivot point self. I should clean the area and check later on after a drive.
  10. You find left/right side parking lights mostly on German cars, it have to do with the law. If you park the car on a not illuminated country road without verge by night or fog, you have to use them ( if the car is equipped with ) , if you don't, the insurance company in case of accident can ask for partial responsibility.
  11. If the calipers are not bleeding properly and in order as i mentioned in my earlier post, the risque of a small air bubble is existing in the inside part of the caliper, which means that the brake pressure is slightly minor in the inside part than in the outside part. Why should some cars have this issue of inside corroded rotors and others not, there is water and dirt in most places over the world. On a perfect working system the pads will clean the rotors on the same way inside or outside. Drive you car on a brake test bench before and after the bleeding is executed, and note the difference in efficiency between both tests from slightly braking till full braking. Forum member Westcoaster is not so far away with his theory of "something out of alignment" the result is the practically the same.
  12. The Cayenne and 987 MAF are not available separately, the housing is a part of it. Perhaps you can find a used one somewhere, they are not so fragile as the older ones.
  13. You can try to disconnect the battery for a couple of hours, if not a PIWIS tester is recommended to find out what's wrong.
  14. Brakes are cooled from the inside to the outside ( that's way the wheels become dirty with brake dust ), so more air to dry on the outside as you said makes no sense IMHO.
  15. The dealer can disable permanently this function with the PIWIS tester menu "Seat memory" sub menu "Coding". Since you have a ROW version, push the mirror switch to the left possition to disable, in some ROW country's it will work in others not, try it out first.
  16. For those who are interested, you can avoid this problem if you keep the calipers inside clean after a pad change so that the pads can slide easily, bleed the brakes regularly. Start bleeding the wheel which is furthest from the master brake cylinder in this order for LHD cars = 1/ right rear wheel - inside nipple first, than outside nipple 2/ left rear wheel - inside nipple first, than outside nipple 3/ right front wheel - same method as rear wheels 4/ left front wheel - same method as rear wheels. Hope it helps.
  17. If the clutch pedal feel light in combination with a slipping clutch, than you can count that the diaphragm spring in the pressure group is cracked. Replace the entire clutch ( disc, pressure group, release bearing ) check the flywheel as well. I should update the RMS/IMS till the newest norm also. No idea about prices and your possibilities to do it yourself.
  18. Dealers can adjust the odometer restricted, with the PIWIS, from for example 000.110 Km to 000.000 Km. and vice versa. He can try to read out the old cluster, and read in the the spare one with the obtained data.
  19. The factory is accommodating with 997 MY 05 broken engines if all the terms are gratified. Don't worry it will be OK.
  20. The fault looks intermittent since the engine runs normal after the reset, you can check the wiring for damage and clean the connectors at the same time. I should wait for a intervention till the fault reoccurs.
  21. If the extended Porsche warranty is purchased the 17th, the OPC have taken that day a " Vehicle Analysis " with the PIWIS tester and send on line to the factory. If the engine is broken the day after ( 18th ), there is no problem. The OPC have to take a new " Vehicle Analysis " with the broken engine and send on line to the factory, so that they can compare both results.
  22. Check the A.C. control box for fault codes, the snow flake button is the on/off switch for the compressor. Perhaps there is something wrong with the control unit.
  23. The throttle body is easy to remove, he is on the front of the manifold, to reach the starter motor you have to remove the intake manifold completely.
  24. The support/brace can bend and the connectors can even hit each other. Transmissions issues are not common, the cables are mostly the culprit.
  25. I know it's a little too late, do the test in this order: 1/ disconnect the cables on the transmission, if it feels OK, gearbox or cables support/brace faulty/bend. If not OK: 2/ disconnect the cables on the shifter, if it feels OK, cables faulty. If not OK, shifter faulty.
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