socalm3

1. The wire can be moved out of the way by push the rubber ring out of its support.

2006 Cayenne 3.2L V6 rear brake pad and rotor change When the brake pad workshop warning light turns on, you have at least 10,000 miles left on the pad. So take your time! When I replaced my old pad at 50,000 miles (1200 miles after the warning light), it still got about 1/4 inch of stuff left (I will wait longer next time). Okay, here are the steps: Tools: 16 mm torx bit (Not sold at sears! try special hardware store) 5 mm torx bit T50 torx bit Two big flat head screw driver (to push the pistons back) one small flat head screw driver (to Author socalm3 Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Maintenance Submitted 08/01/2010 10:25 PM Updated 08/02/2010 10:47 AM

V6 and V8 oil changes are completely different. I just finished the first oil change on my 2006 Cayenne V6! Yes, it's different, but much easier. Any one with oil change experiences should be able to do it in 2 hours without reading any instructions. With instructions, you can probably do the oil change in 30 mins. Here is how I did it. Btw, English is not my first language so please bear with me. Tools: 6 mm Allen wrench - to open the oil filter cap 10 mm socket wrench - to remove the belly panel 18 mm socket wrench (crescent wrench works 2, but not recommended) - to remove the drain plug flat screw driver - (your finger nail works 2) to remove the o ring from the oil filter cap Parts: oil filter w. o ring 18 mm crash wafer 7 quart of Mobil1 0-40 (Walmart now sells them!) Procedures: 1) (optional) cover the floor area under the hood with news paper 2) lay down on the floor and get under the car from the driver side. YOU DON'T NEED TO JACK UP THE CAR! 3) Remove the screws (about 8 of them) holding the belly panel using the 10 mm socket wrench and slide out the panel. YOU DON'T NEED TO REMOVE THE "CHEST PANEL". 4) (optional) look around and identify all the VW parts and Audi parts, then call Porsche for a refund! 5) Get the oil collection pan ready and then open the drain plug using the 18 mm socket wrench. The pan should be able to "drink" 7 quote of oil in 30 seconds. The drain plug can be found above the line where the belly panel overlaps the chest panel. 6) Locate the oil filter cap, which is a round black plastic piece with a hex metal nut on top. 7) (optional, but highly recommended) put on eye protection glasses. 8) Loose the oil filter cap using the 6 mm Allen wrench. The first few turns are petty hard. Stop when the cap can be turned by hand. 9) Get out and crawl back in from the front of the car. Get the oil pan ready, hide your face behind the chest panel, roll up your sleeves and then open and pull out the oil filter cap. About 3/4 quart of Engine oil will pour out of the oil filter housing and there are no way to direct the flow. Any one has a good idea? Please let me know! 10) Wipe your hand, arm, face and the oil filter cap clean. Change the filter (btw, the factory installed filter on my cayenne is made by Hengst and it also got a VW sign on it. One more refund item!) and the o ring using a screw driver. 11) Screw the oil filter cap onto the housing. Don't over tighten it! 12) Replace the wafer and install the drain plug 13) Add close to 7 quart of oil. 14) Start the car and check for leaks. 15) Reinstall the belly panel and you've done! Dealer charges at least $300 for a oil change. I did mine for $60 in about two hours. I make way less than $120 per hour after tax, so DIY is totally worth it!

Found this in a vw board. Can anyone who did a oil change on V6 Cayenne tell me if instructions for vw is good for a Cayenne? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For those Do-It-Yourselfers (DIY) out there, if you haven't done it already, I just did. My first oil change on the treg. If you're not a DIY, you may want to stick around for an amusing read. I do not know if ANY of this applies to a V6 since I have a V8. First off, let me begin by saying this procedure is MESSY! It is also involved. It is not difficult, but it is involved. The first oil change on any vehicle is always an adventure as you discover where the oil splats, but this one takes the cake. It is the most involved oil change I have done on any car. And, don't think you can run down to Checker for a filter. It is a cartridge type. Yup, just like an old, late 50s Chevy small block. Even Chevy went to spin-on filters! I guess what goes around comes around. Anyway, the filter cartridge is about $20 at your local, friendly dealer, who will be sending his daughter to an Ivy League college on the profits from these filters alone! Tools needed: 10mm socket & rachet w/ exention. 10 mm allen wrench (yeah, it's a big one!) 10mm open end wrench. #25 torx head. 6mm allen. 36mm socket or Crescent wrench that can open that big. Small flat blade screwdriver. Lots of rags. Aluminum foil. A big sheet of cardboard or something you can throw away to keep oil off the garage floor. Oil pan capable of holding 8+ qts, & capable of receiving a big flood of oil in a very short time. Ramps help but are not required, they just make moving around under the vehicle easier. Safety glasses. Latex gloves. Let the games begin! First, you have to remove the "belly pans." Remove the 4 #25 torx screws holding the outer forward parts of the front pan. Then, remove the 9 10mm head bolts holding same. Two of them are hiding up above the sway bar in the wheel well, you'll need a 6" extension to get to those. Three are across the front pan just behind the little lip, and 4 where it meets the back pan. You need to jiggle it around a little bit to get it out becuase of how it juts up into the wheel well. Then, remove the 4 bolts holding the rear pan, pay special attention to how the rear ones engage - they're weird, but they go back together OK. I won't even attempt to describe them. Now, you are ready to change the oil. Put on the safety glasses and the latex gloves. Don't just lay the safety glasses down near your work area. That doesn't help. Don't ask me how I know this. I began by changing the filter. Its on the front right lower part of the engine. Right always refers to passenger side of the car. You'll see a black cylinder with a hex head and a silver plug residing in the middle of the hex. It's just above the sway bar. Wrap aluminum foil around the sway bar and cross member to keep oil off them and directed into your oil pan. Remove the plug in the middle of the filter body with a 6mm allen wrench. Allow to drain completely. Remove the black body with either a 36mm socket or large Crescent wrench. The body is plastic so don't be a gorilla. There will be some resistance at first as there is an O ring sealing it. The filter cartridge will come out with the black body. It needs a little jiggling to remove it from the body but it will come off. Simply slide the new cartridge over the shaft in the body and jiggle it till it lightly snaps into place. Use the flat blade screwdriver to lift the o-ring out of its groove in the black body and slide the new one provided with the filter into place, you may need to lever it with the screwdriver. Also remove and replace the small o-ring from the silver drain plug using the same method. Hand start the black filter body back onto the mount, tighten with socket/wrench until it stops. Remember, it's plastic, so don't tighten past where it stops. Now, the real fun begins! The first drain plug is at the back of the oil pan, behind the cross member and in front of the axle. Get your oil pan up as close as you can to it and still have room to work, it's gonna be a flood! Wrap some foil around the cross member to "try" to keep it clean. Loosen the plug with the 10mm allen, you'll have enough room to stick the short end in and plenty of leverage on the long end to turn it. It won't take too many turns until it comes out, and the oil won't begin trickling as it gets closer - the plug will simply come to the end of the threads and come out, and it is about a half-dollar size opening, so the oil will come fast and furious! After that gusher stops, look up a little further back, and you'll see another silvery plug right before where the engine/tranny junction is. There isn't enough room to put the short end of the 10mm allen in, so you'll have to stick in the long end and that doesn't give a lot of leverage, so you may need to use the 10mm open-end on the allen to give you leverage. At least, that's what I did. Same procedure, same quick dump, only about a quart comes out this time. Replace the washers on each main drain plug, you may need the little screwdriver again to work the old ones off, just be gentle so you don't score anything. Replace the drain plugs until good and snug. My rule of torque is to run it in till the threads strip, then back it off a half turn . Before replacing the belly pans, fill the engine with oil, I put in about 8.5 qt even though VW "claims" the V8 takes 7.9. Of course, that info wasn't in the owner's manual, which just said about the V8 capacity "Information not available at press time." Huh? Run the motor and look under the treg to make sure there are no leaks at anything you took off. Replace the pans in reverse order. It's a little tricky getting the front pan to line up just right up in the wheel well, you may have to remove the 2 25 torx screws at each wheel well to get those "flaps" out of the way, then it slides right in.

Loren, Can you also send me a PM? thanks! socalm3 blueam@gmail.com