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AK986

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  1. I'm going to do that today. I ordered the fuel pressure test kit, which arrived yesterday evening. If the pressure is low, then it's probably the fuel pump. The car has been parked for ten years.
  2. Hissing is still there lol.. Sadly.
  3. I took the battery out and inspected all the connections and wires on the fuel pump. I found one wire that was barely holding on, which was for the vent sensor. It's hard to inspect without the battery on and the car running. I tried taking the battery out and connecting the wire with jumper cables, but the car wouldn't start. The terminal wires are so short, lol. Any idea what that hissing could be?
  4. Always to the rescue 🙂, thank you JFP. I ordered a new MAF sensor. The current one is reading 11.75 KGH at idle, which is lower than the normal range, I believe. I replaced the vent value last weekend, and I did not hear any noise. This is directly from under the battery. I couldn't move the battery to see it properly because of the short cables. Once I removed the battery, I checked all the connections, and they seemed fine. That's definitely not a normal sound, right? I order the fuel pressure gauge to test the pressure.
  5. Hi Guys, I'm stuck with the P1124 and P1126 codes. I did a smoke test multiple times and found no vacuum leak. However, I noticed the fuel pump making a hissing sound. Is this normal? Preview attachment IMG_8856.MOV IMG_8856.MOV 2 MB
  6. Thank you so much! This is very helpful. Yesterday, I drove the car and was checking the cam deviations. Camshaft position 1 deviation was moving at every reading, but the Camshaft position 2 Deviation was stuck at -9 during all the readings.
  7. Thanks! Even with the 38K miles. Do you think they would wear that quickly?
  8. I checked the cam deviations, and I got the following: Cam 1 = -3 Cam 2 = -9 Should I be worried? Is this linked to the actuator issue on bank 1? Thanks!
  9. I appreciate all your feedback. What else would you recommend that I can test? The continuity test for both banks came back good, I opened the DME, and no burned chips. I am happy to do more testing, just not sure what else I should do.
  10. I just changed the purge valve this weekend and hope the code corrects itself while driving. I have done multiple smoke tests, and everything seems to check out. Do you think it would be the faulty DME? The shifter indicator is all funky on the cluster as well. It lights on P,R, and N and stays in N while I'm in the drive in 3rd gear (it's automatic), a slight light comes on for D and 5th gear. I looked at the multifunction switch and wiring. All seems to be fine. Going back to the P1531.. you recommend just replacing the actuator at this point?
  11. Hi JFP, thank you for your feedback. So, I have traced the wires from the DME to the connectors, and there was continuity. I noticed a wire was stripped on the connector and replaced it. I have the Foxwell scanner, when I scan it with just the ODB selection, it throws P1530, and when I go through the Porsche app icon (same Foxwell Scanner) I get P1531. My last resolution would be to take it to the dealer and replace the actuator. Another confusion is with the scanner. When I send a signal to Cam bank 1 while idle, the engine drops reps and runs rough. Will this still lead to a bad actuator? Also, I keep on getting P1126, P1124, P0446.. i have changed the oxygen sensor pre Cat..
  12. Hi Guys, I need expert advice on an issue I'm having with CEL P1530 & P1531. Car Details: 1998 Boxster 2.5L with 38K miles. I just recently purchased it and preciously it was not driven and sat for a while. Already Done - * Traced wires from solenoid to DME and ground. All checks out. * Applied 9V battery - Heard a click * Opened the DME, and no burned connections * Liquid Molly Engine Flush - Oil was clean I'm a bit confused. So, I replaced the connection for the bank 1 solenoid and checked all the connections going back to the DME. The other day, randomly, after putting in gas in the car, the CEL cleared but came back after 20 miles. Then I had the Foxwell scanner and came across a drive link active testing option in which I was able to test the bank one solenoid by sending the signal. The RPM dropped on the car, and it cleared the CEL right away. I drove the car for another 20 miles, and it's back on now. I have tried sending single through the Forwell scanner, and the rpm drops, but the CEL sign is still there. What do you think this could be? The car drives fine and doesn't drop the rpm.. Could it be the actuator stuck? Could it be a faulty DME?
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