gerglmuff

it was not the ECU. gotta be a short somewhere. ill start digging as soon as i get the ecu back.

more data ... pulled out the ECU, cause i was in there. again looking for water etc. has a sticker on it from "specialized ECU repair" that says it was in for "testing only (set)" in 2021. feels kinda like the ECU popped.

ok, new data i checked the ignition switch, blew it out with compressed air, didnt seem to have any effect, looked clean/dry etc. then, following the wiring diagram, i found and pulled the oxygen sensor ignition relay (#2 in the rear seat relay box). and that shut it up. i tried to start it like this, but it didnt take. i tried switching out the relay for one of the spoiler relays (they look identical), and C2 popped again. so, i think that means the short is somewhere behind the relay, right? that means its a coil, or injector thats shorted? or the ECU?

yeah and its a common failure for sure. its also a place water can get into the system and you not notice, and weird things happen when water get into an ignition switch. i had a miata on the lake once, water in the ignition switch and it wouldnt turn off. key in the off position, key pulled out, it would happily run. had to kill it with the foot on the brake, pop the clutch, and then go in the back and disconnect the battery because otherwise it would drain, cause the ignition was still on. 2-3 days, the water in the switch dried out, never had a problem since. i'll see if i can check that out tonight. its as least as likely a source of a weird electrical issue as some wire no one has touched in 25 years suddenly having a short it in. i dont see it in the prints, like how a short in the switch would lead to a popped fuse, but you never know.

yup, i found the wiring diagrams. C2 is linked to a lot of stuff but the first place it goes is to the fuel injection rely. but pulling that relay, still pops the fuse. so its between the relay and the fuse, but there is nothing there. the other place C2 goes to is the oxygen sensor relay. i did pull all the oxygen sensors, and it still pops, but i have not pulled up the rear seat to look at the oxygen sensor relay. power to C2 comes from the 80 amp main (F5), but if the 80 amp main had popped because of the ignition switch, there would be no power at C2, to pop C2. so its between C2, and the rest downstream, but not on the fuel injection relay side. and not the oxygen sensors themselves. so its in the wiring to the relays likely right? no aftermarket wiring that i know of. no issues with ignition switch that i know of.

checked the vario cam solidnoids, both ohmed to 12 ohms, so close enough on my cheap meter. oh, its a 99 FYI. pulled the fuse box off the back wall of the footwell, it seems dry, i dont see anything. i litterally have no idea what to try next. it should work. it did work.

Backstory, I had my 996 out on the frozen lakes racing. pretty common done it a half dozen times with this car, but it was particularly wet this last weekend. Drove it home, 1.2 hours away, turned it off, and now wont start. turns over plenty fast no issues there. read the codes, even though there was no CEL, and it was all 6 coils dead. found a post somewhere saying that the C2 fuse controls that, and lo and behold the C2 fuse was popped. installed a smart fuse, it pops when you turn the key to run. that post also said, with the smart fuse in, start checking connections. so i pulled the fuel pump relay, still pops, pulled the MAF, still pops, pulled each 02 sensor, still pops. and pulled coils 1 and 4, still pops. didnt pull the other coils cause id have to take off the exhuast to get in there, and i dont think the short is there anyway. doesnt match the symtoms. i figured id kicked up some snow/ice into the foot well and there is some water in the fuse box/relay box. but its been two days in a heated garage, with a box fan blowing and all the doors windows etc open, and still popping C2. oh, i also got it fire up once, when i was rustling with fuses, and i had a jumper in the fuel pump relay, and it started and ran. but i have not been able to repeat that. now it pops whenever the key is turned. so something is/was moving though the system. so like the engine is fine, everything works, there just is a short somewhere, and i have no idea where. still thinking its water intrustion. i had some weird problems with another ice racing car due to water getting into the iginiton switch, and they just went away when it dried out. so i think thats the problem here, but no idea how/where to look next. 2 days with a fan blowing on it seems like it should be enough. no visible water found anywhere on the car now after sitting in a heated garage for 2 days. video for clicks:

worked perfectly! thank you so much!

i suppose you might want some context ... this is what we do in the winter up here in the midwest with sports cars:

dang, pics dont work with [img][/img] tags, so i guess you will have to click on them. I did finish the studded tires: And i just picked the car up IMS bearing install, and wavetrac LSD install.

Moving over from the website that rhymes with 'elican arts, because of moderation issues: i have committed to a car, and bought it ... its happening. so this is a build thread. so, this spring i bought a car: https://i.imgur.com/M7ensZz.jpg 175k miles, 99, Carrera 2. this is absolutely the car to buy for this task, for several reasons: 1. and most importantly, these are the cheapest 911s currently. when im done with this car, its going to be worthless, and while buying a maintaining a 911 isnt too expensive, turning the cash value of the car to zero by racing it and smashing it into snowbanks at 75+ ... is fairly expensive. 2. 1999 is the lightest year, with the good IMS, without any electronic nannies that will be confused by studded tires on ice. 3. this particular car was great because it was obviously some rich guys track toy, and he must have backed it into a tire wall, scared himself, and decided to sell it. it was then sold to a sketchy used car place in California, bought by a guy in SLC, driven around town for a year or so, and then i bought it. i can tell this for several reasons: A. it has full 996 GT3 suspension already. B. has the thrid radiator from the 996 GT3 C. it has track brake pads on it 4. the passenger side wheel is pretty bent, and there is good evidence of paint work on the passenger quarterpannel E. it has the oil sump spacer i wish it had an LSD, but it doesnt sadly. more on that later ... 4. the car can take 17 inch wheels. we will be buying a ton of wheels and tires for this thing, so lets keep that as cheap as possible. STAY ON 17s!!! anyway, bought the car. its here now. and road racing season is over, so its now ice car prepping season .... What i have done so far: Convert the car to studs. because wheel bolts are ****ing stupid, and insane. rennline conversion kit was cheap/easy. Secondly i was trying to get rid of the stagger, and the internet swears up and down that 9s front on the front, but even with a 5mm spacer, i have not been able to get 9s on the front. I might try 10mm, but in the meantime ... I bought some spec boxster SQUARE 17x8.5s with hoosiers that fit perfectly (always trust motorsport people, not street car people): https://i.imgur.com/yuQkQTV.jpeg i think im going to lean into the silver over lime green in the livery ... Remaining tasks: -LN IMS Bearing -Wavetrack LSD -raise the car back to around stock ride and scale and realign for higher ride height -Paint and dip the spare bumper cover -Tow hooks front a rear -Trailer hitch -built studded tires -acquire trailer for studded tires transport

Hello, this would be a life saver: 99 C2 CDR210 R 3297 W5019519 I found a 4 digit code written on some paperwork, unlabeled of course, 7522, but it doesnt work.