Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Willow5

Members
  • Posts

    43
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Fields

  • From
    Scotland
  • Present cars
    Porsche

Recent Profile Visitors

434 profile views

Willow5's Achievements

Member

Member (1/1)

0

Reputation

  1. Is it possible to take an OEM satnav radio from a 2009 cayenne (PCM 3) and put it into a 2005 Cayenne to replace the BE6635? Is it compatible in terms of physical size and wiring?
  2. Thanks @GSpence2 I agree heat is not the right way to go. I am just surprised no one else has ever encountered this problem before. I also don't think brute force will work either as that is how I broke off the delicate tabs. I saw one video on youtube which involved brute force hitting the tab with a hammer which I will not be doing. Any other suggestions?
  3. Thanks @GSpence2 although this guide mentions the three pipes, I couldn't find the part where it mentions separating the 3 pipes from the thermostat housing or did I miss something?
  4. Hi there, I can't believe no one doesn’t know how to safely separate these pipes as I have already damaged the delicate tabs on one set and now bought a replacement so don't want to damage another set. Is there a tool for this as right now I am totally defeated
  5. Hi, My 2005 4.5l Cayenne last had replacement Aluminium coolant pipes done in 2010. Since then, it has covered 100k so clearly need to renew the O rings. Question: does anyone know how to separate the 3 pipes into the upper thermostat housing ? They seem to be well and truly stuck in there. I tried heating it a bit and only managed to move it a little bit out but I am concerned with the fragile Aluminium that I could damage them if I continue with brute force.
  6. Doesn't anyone here know the function of the door tailgate switch?? I came across this article on another forum which describes exactly what I am encountering. Please can someone kindly confirm this is the operation of the tailgate switch and keyfob? Tail Gate Wont Open From Key Fob or Drivers Door - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM Cayenne 955-957 2003-2010 - Tail Gate Wont Open From Key Fob or Drivers Door - Morning All, I have just purchased a...
  7. Hi there. Before I go and get the scan done and spend more time troubleshooting, please can someone kindly confirm the operation of the tailgate switch in the drivers door. I read on a touareg forum that the function of the switch is as follows: "On mine (an '04) that switch only allows you to open the hatch after you have locked the car. ie, flip the switch, get out of the car and lock it, go to the rear and open the hatch using the switch above the license plate, retrieve your packages, close the hatch and the car re lockets itself. The feature times out after about a minute. In other words, the switch allows the hatch to open for a period of time after the car is locked. It does not open the hatch directly." Is this the correct function of the switch when working? If so, I have been operating it incorrectly.....
  8. @JFP in PA, I understand thanks. Are there any other troubleshooting guides online that I could take a look at ? My troubleshooting logic is this: There is clearly a connection between the drivers door control unit and the rear part of the car given that I can open the fuel cap. The control unit clearly has access to the CAN bus in order for this part to function. The tailgate itself and all the motors are fine given that I can open all rear doors fine with the buttons on the rear. The tailgate switch is also working fine. My only other thought was that there could be a broken wire somewhere....I read a few times that wires occassionally get torn between the door rubber boot and the body. I have yet to take the rubber boot off to inspect further. Could this be an issue?
  9. @JFP in PA, ok then are there any further troubleshooting techniques I could do in absence of a PIWIS or reader? I read the voltage at the tailgate switch pins in the drivers door card and they check out ok but I have 4 wires and the diagrams I have seen only show 2...slightly confused by this
  10. Hi @JFP in PA, if I were to simply replace the driver door control unit, could this be done without any reprogramming, for example, is it a simple plug and play swap ? I could source one quite easily from ebay.......are these prone to going bad?
  11. Hi @JFP in PA and @Loren, to be honest I am not sure I will get hold of such a scanning device anytime soon given the lockdown. In absence of this, can I get an idea of what sorts of issues could cause the faults I am observing. Could this be a driver door control unit issue for example?
  12. Hi @Loren, forgive me but what type of things could such a scan pick up? I am of the opinion (rightly or wrongly) that this is a hardware issue like a broken wire or ground issue, what do you think?
  13. Hi @Loren, no not as yet. I assumed this was a simple wiring/grounding issue given the following conditions are true: 1) the rear tailgate switch appears to be working fine 2) the fuel cap release switch from the drivers door is working fine which is also routed into the drivers control unit 3) there is voltage on the pins foing into the tailgate release switch 4) the switch itself is ok Right now, I have 3 unresolved issues: 1) starter motor is sluggish and never starts on first turn. Always takes at least 2 turns to fire up 2) rear tailgate release button on the drivers door and remote keyfob are not working (although with a long keypress on the keyfob, the rear tailgate glass panel does release). 3) the alarm doesn't sound, only the hazard lights illuminate Would a PIWIS or Durametric scan assist with these issues? Please note that I managed to clear up 1 issue with some cleaning of the ground points which was the original issue I had with the central locking not locking the tailgate, this now appears to work correctly.
  14. Thank you @Rick150. Is there a diagram similar to the one I posted above that shows the "tailgate switch" and the "tank cover unlocking switch" which routes into the "driver door control unit". I am only interested in this now as those controls are on the drivers door and that is where the problem is
  15. Hi @Rick150, no need to check the fuse as the tailgate opens and closes perfectly when I use the handle at the rear. Please can you kindly send me all the wiring diagrams for the interior lights circuits as that is where the switch for the tailgate release is located. I have this diagram but it makes no sense to me as both the fuel flap and tailgate lid switches are connected to the same wires. Can you explain it at all as I am baffled by it. Also I have 4 wires going into my tailgate switch, not 2. The other 2 are VIO/WHI and Brown which are not shown here....this is a complete mystery to me
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.