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klueless7571
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About klueless7571
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I'm considering a 2004 GT3 with 30,000 miles on the clock. The DME reading follows. The range 1 revs says 65535 (2^16) and that looks like the limit of the computer's memory. I know these are the type 1 over revs and should be safe, but is that still too high? Does that indicate this car's been tracked? Anything else you guys notice about these readings? Derek GT3 DME Vehicle data Number of ignitions, range 1 65535 667.1 h Number of ingitions, range 2 -- Operating hours counter 789.0 Vehicle Identification Nr. WP0AC29984xxxxxxx Type ID DME control unit 0996GUS01 Order type 996810 Country code C02 Engine type 9679 Transmission type G9696 Transmission number 2002852 Radio/PCM code 0000 Body color/convertible top color 12H0L Interior equipment 490 Number of programming operations 2 Navigation system 0000 Total distance 047364km
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There's also this one from a Porsche Dealer in California, also with PCCB. http://www.getauto.com/autolinks_cardetail.html/adid-20407144/e_dealer_id-/inventory-/x_dealer_id-&pageval=autolinks_sr_ad_detail&consumer_map_id=15471&consumer_id=15471&some_id=20407144&type_code=AD Derek
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How about this one on ebay? Pictures look like PCCB, but the options list photo near the bottom doesn't list PCCB. Also, why does it say Orient Red, when the options list says Yellow? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/996-Very-RARE-15k-Miles-LIKE-NEW-Speed-Yellow-WOW_W0QQitemZ230460628459QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item35a8861deb#vi-contentgigamovesId Thanks for any feedback! Derek
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They claim 45000 miles ... Very fishy indeed ... I'll stay far away from that one. Thanks Guys! Derek
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Really? I thought PCCB was an option Derek
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This seems like a good deal for a 2004 GT3. Has anyone dealt with Windy City Motorsports before? http://windy-city-motorsports.ebizautos.com/detail-2004-porsche-911-gt3-used-4682625.html Derek.
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I'm considering a 2003 996 C2 Cab and I'm looking to get a PPI done on the car. The car is in Deer Park, NY and I'm in Vancouver, Canada so I am looking for recommendations for either an indie mechanic or a reliable Porsche dealer (is there such a thing?). Thanks in advance. Derek
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I'm on my second OEM Porsche battery from the dealer on a 2002 Boxster S. My p-car is a daily commuter, about 35-60 km per day. I hook up a batter charger to it once every few months, and I never let the battery drain to zero. I have been trying to top up the charge for the past week, charging with a CTEK-3300 for about 9 hours each night. I've not gotten the full charge green light to come on yet. The car still starts fine, but the CTEK just doesn't show green. Battery acid tests OK. My wife's Lexus LS400 has an Optima deep cycle Blue Top and it tops up with the CTEK overnight without any problems. And she only drives her car on short trips a few times a week. Actually, the 5+ years old battery that was pulled from her car also tops up with the CTEK overnight. (I replaced the battery because another charger I was using couldn't fully charge the battery!) The cranking time to start her car is noticeably shorter, and the headlights don't dim during cranking (daylight running lights) like with the previous battery. I think it is more than simply having the battery last twice as long. Optimas give peace of mind. Looks like I'll be replacing my battery soon, and you bet it is going to be an Optima. I'll check if the Costcos here in Vancouver have the special as well. Thanks for the heads up rlim. Derek
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Motronic Fault Code Durametric
klueless7571 replied to 00boxster's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Do they really require you to do an oil change every 6 months? Maintenance schedule says change every 24000km with 9 litres of Mobil 1. Derek -
anybody knows how the coolant bleeder valve is supposed to work? Derek
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I'm about to replace the coolant in my 2002 Boxster (I mixed green coolant into the system when the light started blinking). I've already replaced the 2 O-rings in the coolant bleeder valve, and the coolant cap to the .01 version because I was loosing coolant (tank is still intact). However, I noticed that the coolant bleeder valve is held open all the time due just from pressure within the system. The only way to shut the valve is by opening the coolant cap to release the pressure. The little metal wire is always in the closed (horizontal) position. However, after I run the car, pressure within the system pushes the valve opened again and it stays that way even after the car cools overnight. Is this normal? or do I need to replace the coolant bleeder valve? Derek
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Blown Engine - this cannot be good
klueless7571 replied to klueless7571's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
85000 km (53000 miles). These are original plugs. I've got a set of new Bosch plugs I could put in, but I don't think the plugs are the root of my misfiring problems :( -
Disconnecting Oxygen Ssensor
klueless7571 replied to jvcuenca's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Just press the release on the connector (red circle on attached photo) and pull down. Photo shows passenger side O2 connector before the catalytic converter. Derek
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Blown Engine - this cannot be good
klueless7571 replied to klueless7571's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Update on misfire cylinder #1: About a month ago, I removed coil pack #1 and #3 for examination. They both looked fine, so I swapped them around, put original #3 into #1 and vice versa. Nothing changed in the misfire status. I'm still getting bad misfiring on cold starts after the car sits for a few hours. Rough idle lasts for about 30 seconds then it is smooth again. Durametric confirms that cylinder #1 is still the one that's misfiring. So today I finally have time and pulled a couple of plugs to have a look today. I removed them after the car sat for 24 hours. The attached photos show plug from cyl #3 on the left and #1 on the right. I don't know what to make of these so I'm hoping for some opinion from those familiar with diagnosis by looking at these plugs. I should also say, I have been loosing coolant mysteriously so I'm hoping it isn't a blown head gasket or a crack. I've got the new updated coolant cap, and I don't see any fluid in the trunk floor or behind the passenger seat under the carpets. I do smell coolant during start ups. I don't see any steam or dripping under the engine area. I would say I've lost 2 litres of coolant in the last 2 months, maybe 5000 km of driving. Suggestions? Derek
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Your problem is rather difficult to narrow down. If it was me, I would start with disconnecting the battery cable, and running a direct cable from the alternator to the battery. Hopefully, the voltage at both ends would be identical. Let the car run for 30 minutes. When everything is warm, see if the voltages still check out OK. My guess would be "yes". If some of your other accessories are draining too much power, and your alternator is not providing sufficient output, you would be able to tell by measuring the voltage at the alternator. If you have an amp meter, you could measure the amps that's going directly to the battery through the new temporary cable, and the amps going to the rest of the car. End of test. If all your measurements are good, then at least we know that your alternator is good and providing sufficient output for your accessories. Then the next step would be to disconnect the power cable, section by section, and examine and replace as necessary. I wouldn't be able to help you there, as I have no clue as to where and how the cable is routed. Good luck! Derek
