moosey

Does anyone one what time cert kit is needed to repair a stripped wheel carrier hub, Was removing caliper bolt on front driver side and when bolt came out so did a good size coil of aluminum thread from hub.

Thanks all . Did Front and rear brakes and I must say the rears are a piece of cake. No worries on E-Brake. Just had the Cayenne in park with E brake off. The rotors came of without any problems. The fronts are what gave me a bit of problem. Calipers came off without any problems but had difficulty trying to fond where the brake line could be loosen like on 996 cars to give more room to install pads. By the for the poster who had to pay around $1100 for rear brakes, for that price I get front and rear brakes all OEM. Thanks to the members of this great board for all your help and advice!

JFP, been doing some research and read on another board that when doing the rear brakes you just have to make sure the electronic parking brake is off along with air suspension, no need to calibrating or dealer tester. Also would you happen to know the torque specs for front and rear caliper bolts and rotor bolts? Any suggestions on how to push the brake pistons back in order to pull caliper off rotor? Asking because the front and rear caliper have the new brembo C caliper design. Depends upon the mileage and how the vehicle has been used, The electric e-brake shoes sit fairly close to the drum area inside the rear rotors when in the "off" position; if there is any lip on the edge of the e-brake drum, either from wear or just simple corrosion, you will not be able to pull the rotors off without tearing up the e-brake shoes. When that happens, the e-brake has to be put in the "service position", which retracts the drum shoes to allow the rotor to be removed. After the rotor is reinstalled, the e-brake then has to be 're-calibrated" to put the shoes back in the correct position near the drum surface. The rear caliper bolts are another "conundrum". When Porsche first went to this caliper design, there were no published torque specs, but as the same brakes appear on VW Touareg models, most shops simply used the VW information; however that has also proven confusing. VW listed the rear caliper bolts as "single use, torque to yield" type, torqued to 110 Ft. lb. + 90 degrees. But when we tried to buy new bolts (used on Porsche, Audi, and VW models), we found none of the local dealers either carried them in stock, or had ever ordered them, which means they had never replaced them. The front caliper bolts are torqued to 200 ft. lb., and the disc to hub screws are 10.5 ft. lb. The preferred pad retraction tool is the Lisle 25750: Thanks JFP, I have 20K miles on 2011 CS F/R pads are completely worn down but no brake pad wear light has come on yet. So if I understand right if they rear shoes are not worn and the car in in park with e brake off the rotors should come off easily? I read here a member said to make sure to have the car in neutral any reason for that? Thanks again! If there is no internal lip on the E-brake drum, it should come right off. I have no idea why you would need to put the car in neutral, as the car is basically electronically dead when it is not running and up on the lift when doing this. Perhaps you should address your question to that poster. yep did that, thanks for everything!

JFP, been doing some research and read on another board that when doing the rear brakes you just have to make sure the electronic parking brake is off along with air suspension, no need to calibrating or dealer tester. Also would you happen to know the torque specs for front and rear caliper bolts and rotor bolts? Any suggestions on how to push the brake pistons back in order to pull caliper off rotor? Asking because the front and rear caliper have the new brembo C caliper design. Depends upon the mileage and how the vehicle has been used, The electric e-brake shoes sit fairly close to the drum area inside the rear rotors when in the "off" position; if there is any lip on the edge of the e-brake drum, either from wear or just simple corrosion, you will not be able to pull the rotors off without tearing up the e-brake shoes. When that happens, the e-brake has to be put in the "service position", which retracts the drum shoes to allow the rotor to be removed. After the rotor is reinstalled, the e-brake then has to be 're-calibrated" to put the shoes back in the correct position near the drum surface. The rear caliper bolts are another "conundrum". When Porsche first went to this caliper design, there were no published torque specs, but as the same brakes appear on VW Touareg models, most shops simply used the VW information; however that has also proven confusing. VW listed the rear caliper bolts as "single use, torque to yield" type, torqued to 110 Ft. lb. + 90 degrees. But when we tried to buy new bolts (used on Porsche, Audi, and VW models), we found none of the local dealers either carried them in stock, or had ever ordered them, which means they had never replaced them. The front caliper bolts are torqued to 200 ft. lb., and the disc to hub screws are 10.5 ft. lb. The preferred pad retraction tool is the Lisle 25750: Thanks JFP, I have 20K miles on 2011 CS F/R pads are completely worn down but no brake pad wear light has come on yet. So if I understand right if they rear shoes are not worn and the car in in park with e brake off the rotors should come off easily? I read here a member said to make sure to have the car in neutral any reason for that? Thanks again!

Any pics for safe jacking points for 2011 CS. Only see ones for tire jack and not floor jack. Pics would be great if anyone can post them here for model 2011+ front and rear. Thanks

The caliper bolts get loosened then the caliper slides on two steel rods (pins) (special tool T10439) to suspend the caliper while you remove and replace the pads. 2011 calipers.png Loren , so for the new style rotors on 2011-2014 Cayenne models do you just loosen the caliper bolt screws and just pull off onto pins? I was able to purchase the pins via snapon VW. I'm curious if I need to try to push brake pistons back some with screw driver to loosen pads before removing brake caliper?

JFP, been doing some research and read on another board that when doing the rear brakes you just have to make sure the electronic parking brake is off along with air suspension, no need to calibrating or dealer tester. Also would you happen to know the torque specs for front and rear caliper bolts and rotor bolts? Any suggestions on how to push the brake pistons back in order to pull caliper off rotor? Asking because the front and rear caliper have the new brembo C caliper design.

any updates on this? Tool is actually a VW item and looks like this: About $54 from Samstag Tools Thanks JFP, just purchased. Do you know if they make or sell a floor jack pad for 2011-14 cayenne ? I don't think I can use my jack at the spare tire jack point.Any other points under car where I can jack using floor jack while doing brake at a time? Also any special tools to loosen the pads before removing the caliper? obviously there is no more room to use piston spreader with new design of caliper. I don't really know about the jack pad, but "search" is always your best friend. The pads do not need an tool to loosen them, they usually just pop out. Thanks again JFP, I wanted to know since the new caliper design does not offer room to use a piston spreader from top would I just have to try and get a flat head screw driver in there to try and loosen the pad away from the caliper in order to pull off caliper? This was my main concern. Ive read others have said that the two tripe square bolts facing outside needed to be loosen in order for pads to get loose, but also read that this is incorrect> Can you further elaborate if you have any more info on this subject? Thanks!!

any updates on this? Tool is actually a VW item and looks like this: About $54 from Samstag Tools Thanks JFP, just purchased. Do you know if they make or sell a floor jack pad for 2011-14 cayenne ? I don't think I can use my jack at the spare tire jack point.Any other points under car where I can jack using floor jack while doing brake at a time? Also any special tools to loosen the pads before removing the caliper? obviously there is no more room to use piston spreader with new design of caliper.

any updates on this?

Yep, just wanted to see those colors on an actual car. Thanks

Does anyone have any pictures of 2009-2012 Sport Design Aerokit for Boxster S in Silver or White. Thinking of buying but cant seem to find any pictures except for the blue ones in the tequipment brochure.

Anyway to remove the seat if it is completely stuck where all 4 torx bolts are covered? The Drive cable is twisted and is still inside of rail. The other end of the cable has fallen out. I noticed there are several bolts under the seat, but do not know which could be undone to possibly make the seat move freely back and forth. IS there a way ? I haven't tried yet but if I remove the long drive cable that is still in the side of the seat rail would that loosen the seat enough to get to the 4 torx bolts? Thanks All

Anyone know where you can buy the special tool to suspend the caliper? Also when replacing the rear pads and rotors does the car have to be in neutral??? Are there any detailed steps on how the pads and new hardware kit are installed?

Just bought 08' Cayman S tiptronic, when moving automatic gear lever from park to drive there is a bit of resistance and you kind of have to force it a little bit. Been reading about shift cable may be dirty , loose or broken or binding. Checked shift cable under car on drier side and it was pretty dirty and had residue that was hardened on it. cleaned it all up but still hard to move gear lever. The only thing is that the shift cable on the driver side on trans is a bit loose. Could this be cause of why its hard to move lever? Dealer said it could be shift cables binding, how to tell or what to and where for binding shift cables. Thanks ALL

Can a standard non air bag passenger seat replace original seat that had air bags on it? Wanted to know if the wiring would be the same .

Thanks JFP, out in the desert rancho mirage 85-112 daily

The sensor could be going south. What oil are you running in the engine? 0w-40

Can a faulty oil sending unit cause the RED Oil can display Engine oil pressure too low? Had this problem dealer said it was AOS, replaced and after 5000k it came back. At idle the oil pressure needle bounces up and down between 1-2 and at 3000 rpm needle stays at 2-2.5 but nothing higher. No oil leaks, oil level is perfect and dealer just replaced AOS. No strange sounds from engine , changed oil and it looked clean no metal bits s some suggested to check. 02 Carrera 220K on odometer, all service updated.

Is their a different procedure installing water pump on 996.2 tip than manual? I was able to easily get water pump out but cannot seem to get new pump installed. Metal pipe is in the way. Car is jacked up and engine brace is backed out all the way. 02 tip Carrera

Anyone know if there is a special in getting the water pump back in place on 02' 996. I was able to easily get it out by wiggling it but having major trouble getting it back in due to a metal pipe that is in the way. Thermostat if blocking the pipe from dropping and I don't even want to mess with removing thermostat. I know on gen 1 996 u can drop the metal pipe but I can't see how u can do it with 996.2

996 targa sun shade wont close all the way and sags. I took old one out and noticed that those metal clips that hold the sun shade which move up and down the rail do not move forward all the way when trying to close but stops halfway while the other keeps going and vice versa . So my questions is what needs to be replaced or part number to replace both those moving metal clips that move the sun shade open and close. Is it apart of the frame? its own rail system? seen diagrams for all arts but cannot tell which I need. Thanks

Bill This is what the strut mount looks like when it goes out. It just went out again today and this is the third time. The independent shop I went to said it was factory but infact an aftermarket one made in Germany. I have a 996 targa and was told that pss10s would be ok to use factory strut mounts. the car is 25 inch f/r ride height. Is the set up wrong here where my front and rear mounts are going out less than 12-15k miles?? I do drive on lots of bumpy roads but I assume that it was souse to be able to handle them. Any suggestions anyone ?? Im going to look or new dealer Here is driver side strut going through the fender thus making the clunking over all bumps. all four have gone out and this is the third time. Any other strut mounts I can use that will take the abuse of everyday driving over bumpy roads?photo5.JPG Here is the passenger side that hasn't gone out yet but is probably the same aftermarket part which shop got from SSF. What are the major issues that are causing these to go out??? I thought they are suppose to take daily driving on poor roads. Seriously what is the point of having pss10s if you cant drive daily on all conditions and having to replace mounts every 10K?? PLease input

Bill This is what the strut mount looks like when it goes out. It just went out again today and this is the third time. The independent shop I went to said it was factory but infact an aftermarket one made in Germany. I have a 996 targa and was told that pss10s would be ok to use factory strut mounts. the car is 25 inch f/r ride height. Is the set up wrong here where my front and rear mounts are going out less than 12-15k miles?? I do drive on lots of bumpy roads but I assume that it was souse to be able to handle them. Any suggestions anyone ?? Im going to look or new dealer Here is driver side strut going through the fender thus making the clunking over all bumps. all four have gone out and this is the third time. Any other strut mounts I can use that will take the abuse of everyday driving over bumpy roads?photo5.JPG

Bill This is what the strut mount looks like when it goes out. It just went out again today and this is the third time. The independent shop I went to said it was factory but infact an aftermarket one made in Germany. I have a 996 targa and was told that pss10s would be ok to use factory strut mounts. the car is 25 inch f/r ride height. Is the set up wrong here where my front and rear mounts are going out less than 12-15k miles?? I do drive on lots of bumpy roads but I assume that it was souse to be able to handle them. Any suggestions anyone ?? Im going to look or new dealer Here is driver side strut going through the fender thus making the clunking over all bumps. all four have gone out and this is the third time. Any other strut mounts I can use that will take the abuse of everyday driving over bumpy roads?