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JE 17

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JE 17 last won the day on June 24

JE 17 had the most liked content!

About JE 17

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  • From
    Illinois
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Porsche 986 x 2, BMW 540i, 997.2, MINI, Cayenne Turbo, M235i
  • Future cars
    993
  • Former cars
    1980 BMW 320i , 2 1987 535i, 1984 Z28, VW Corrado, Volvo 850T, Peter D Modlite/Yamaha, 1968 Opel Kadett Rallye, and --how could I forget?--a temporarily shiny new 1971 Vega!

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  1. I've been chasing a rough idle for almost two months. 2011 Turbo, 120,000 miles. There was a code for the 'valve lift controller.' Also got a check engine light. Oddly, it runs fine beyond idle besides a slight initial hesitation. Got another controller, but apparently there was a part change midway through production and it was incorrect. So we got the right one. After installation, no change. The mechanic wasn't satisfied and got another. Same result. Then someone on another forum mentioned first get Cayennes had a screen in the oil passage below the VLC which clogged. Calling upon a previous similar issue in the LS of my Silverado where the screen in the oil pressure sensor gets clogged, I thought trying some Pennzoil might help. It works there so it may here as well. (BTW, checked the parts diagram and even asked Gaudin Porsche parts folks--there is no screen in this engine. Perhaps a very small oil passage.) The result is that while the engine is cold, the idle is still rough. When warmed, it is fine. Interestingly, shutting off the engine while rough usually smooths it on restart. The engine light has gone out on its' own. Ideas? I can't have the lucky sole example of this problem.
  2. Sorry to hear you are having this trouble. I've been through a few things on my 2011 version, but I love driving it almost over my 911 or Boxster! I don't find a lot of lag, but then it's not a car and it's fairly heavy. A few seconds delay? I would be looking for leaks in the turbo plumbing--or a bad turbo or two. Also, a supercharged engine is always going to be more immediate on boost. My guage reads in pounds and I believe the most I've seen is 6 but not positive as I don't really look at that in the WOT situation: the road ahead is more important at that point! If you are getting one coil pack, you should just replace them all to avoid chasing your tail. As has been observed many times in many forums I follow, if one is bad more are right behind! No pro mechanic here, but I suspect a lot of your trouble begins with that "tune."
  3. I've chased my tail several times with this system on a---2011 Turbo, too! They are terrific when working properly, as you know. Have you tried the old spray-with-soapy-water-trick on all the junctions? Good luck!
  4. I will do so. Just annoyed I had a PPI done. Would you not think it would pick that up if someone was halfway competent?
  5. I bought my 2012 S (yes, it's a 997) about 15 months ago. It has 75,000 miles presently. It has had a vibration at higher speeds the entire time. I considered a balance problem but went ahead with the purchase of a NVH software program. It confirmed the balance issue and I had them done. They also checked for runout and any other anomalies. When I got it back, I took a roughly 1000 mile trip, and the vibration was present the entire time. I checked with the NVH program which is now telling me it is an engine balance problem. The motor and transmission mounts are new OEM. I had changed the plugs and coil packs already. Tires (Michelin) still have good tread. It starts fine, pulls strongly and uses no oil, but just has that vibration at 70mph and up as well as at idle. I have an old 986 Boxster which is dead-smooth, so I expected the same of the 997. Is that a characteristic of the new engine?
  6. Looks like mine when I got it from auction. Two airbags were bad, the rear hydraulic antiroll bar line was blown and the pump was trashed and I had a list like this. Keep plugging, you'll get it done!
  7. Gee, thanks for jinxing me! 😀 I just absently noted this happening with my 997 today.
  8. That can be your air system failing. What year is it, and do you also have PDCC? The anti-roll bars are hydraulic and the rear high pressure line failed on mine. It's a common problem, I was told. Do you have a leak in the area behind the rear axle? Either way, you need to get to a Porsche-specific scan tool to identify the problem. And your mechanic seems unfamiliar with these vehicles to just toss off a sensor guess. Get it scanned.
  9. My perceptions have been validated: my car rides no differently if the sport button is engaged. I went to the expense of the DSC controller, but it still rides pretty harshly. My 99 Boxster is much more supple, admittedly on 17s instead of 19s. Anyway, the Durametric reports the car doesn't have a PASM module, so it seems I have a communication problem. Is there anything I can do besides check the DSC connector before scheduling a dealer visit?
  10. I would not want any foreign debris drifting around any engine of mine.
  11. Forgot mileage: it's about 72,000. PDK service two months ago at the dealer.
  12. I've posted elsewhere but no response. It's a 2012 997.2 S with PDK. I have a rumble on the highway in 7th traveling at 70-80 mph at a frequency of about 4 seconds. It has been present since I obtained the car a year ago. Tires are newer and show no obvious abnormal wear. The vibration seems to permeate the entire car, not just through the steering wheel. It isn't horrible, but I want to catch something early to avoid an expensive failure down the road. Am I losing a CV joint?
  13. Ignition switches are a known problem. I have a spare sitting on the shelf for "jes sech an occurance" as Foghorn Leghorn would say.
  14. I was on my way across the Mississippi to get gas in Missouri (Illinois taxes you know.) I had just gotten on the bridge, accelerating uphill, not hard as I was behind one of those slow non-turbo dronemobiles when I heard a bang, then a grinding noise. At first, I thought I had run over something, but I never saw anything. So I slowed to a crawl over the bridge until there was a safe place to pull over. I couldn't see anything, and it was running fine. So I rolled down to a gas station, got out my flashlight and tried to see what was wrong. No luck, so I called for a tow. Now this is really aggravating, but since I no longer have a property with a lift, I had to send it to a shop. They called the next day to tell me it appeared that a circlip holding this shaft had failed, and the shaft had pulled out of the transfer case. Now, in searching several forums, I didn't find anyone else with this problem yet he says it's common. In fact, it's so common, there are about seven upgrades of this circlip. A $16-some-dollar circlip! Oh yeah, and a driveshaft. $1700 there, though I found it on FCP for $1200. You must expect some problems at 115,000 miles, but I'm just happy I was a mile from town instead of the middle of I-80 in Nebraska or somewhere else fun!
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