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JE 17

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JE 17 last won the day on June 24 2024

JE 17 had the most liked content!

About JE 17

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  • From
    Illinois
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Porsche 986 x 2, BMW 540i, 997.2, MINI, Cayenne Turbo, M235i
  • Future cars
    993
  • Former cars
    1980 BMW 320i , 2 1987 535i, 1984 Z28, VW Corrado, Volvo 850T, Peter D Modlite/Yamaha, 1968 Opel Kadett Rallye, and --how could I forget?--a temporarily shiny new 1971 Vega!

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  1. I just noticed something similar last week on my turbo. I was pretty worried so I took the rare step of consulting a mechanic (my Quickjack is worthless for the Cayenne.) He found it was the power steering pump but said it wasn't a critical situation. I just hate drips! So check that. You will need to drop the belly pan and it helps to use a lift.
  2. As posted in another forum, it is a European requirement that speedometers read fast. It dates back to the 70s! My Porsches run about 2 mph, my Chevy truck about 4, and the BMWs about 3. That's according to Illinois' numerous radar speed displays.
  3. I'll see if I can look it up, but that sounds correct but I only had one bank, I think 2. Yes, I'm certain it's the lift solenoid.
  4. I’ve fought this for a few months. Initially got the variable timing unit replaced by mistake. Spoke with head tech at a dealership about while there for another issue. He was kind enough to explain how to change the lift solenoid without a lot of difficulty. He suggested removing the panel behind the engine for better access. Also, you’ll need an o ring for the vacuum pump as that must be removed. Since it seems to only appear from cold, disappearing once warmed, I’m going to put this off a while. Building an engine for one of the Boxsters takes a lot of time.
  5. Please don’t tell us you tried starting it on t-year-old gas! It sounds like you need to clean the entire fuel system.
  6. Congratulations on the purchase. I got my Turbo from an auction and it needed a lot, like a new hydraulic pump (for the anti-roll bar system,) the hose going to the rear unit (which is what killed the pump by running dry,) a battery, some air suspension units on three corners and other less significant items. You didn't mention if you obtained a new battery, but you'll find they are quite sensitive to voltage. So if the battery is on its' way out, just get one. This is a fun job to build strength, as it is under the driver's seat and is pretty large. This is our favorite choice in the fleet for road trips, and we have used it for that purpose a lot. Good luck!
  7. I was able to speak with a Porsche tech about this while at the shop for another issue. For the benefit of anyone else experiencing this rough idle and getting codes for the valve lift controller, I made a surprising discovery. It appears I changed the wrong one! The one affected is not under the cam cover, but at the back of the head. I am not looking forward to this replacement: even he said it would be a tough job to access! What is annoying is that this is the one I originally intended to replace, but was diverted to the other.
  8. Engine light is back. I cannot be the only one experiencing this! Will look for new codes today. Ideas?
  9. I've been chasing a rough idle for almost two months. 2011 Turbo, 120,000 miles. There was a code for the 'valve lift controller.' Also got a check engine light. Oddly, it runs fine beyond idle besides a slight initial hesitation. Got another controller, but apparently there was a part change midway through production and it was incorrect. So we got the right one. After installation, no change. The mechanic wasn't satisfied and got another. Same result. Then someone on another forum mentioned first get Cayennes had a screen in the oil passage below the VLC which clogged. Calling upon a previous similar issue in the LS of my Silverado where the screen in the oil pressure sensor gets clogged, I thought trying some Pennzoil might help. It works there so it may here as well. (BTW, checked the parts diagram and even asked Gaudin Porsche parts folks--there is no screen in this engine. Perhaps a very small oil passage.) The result is that while the engine is cold, the idle is still rough. When warmed, it is fine. Interestingly, shutting off the engine while rough usually smooths it on restart. The engine light has gone out on its' own. Ideas? I can't have the lucky sole example of this problem.
  10. Sorry to hear you are having this trouble. I've been through a few things on my 2011 version, but I love driving it almost over my 911 or Boxster! I don't find a lot of lag, but then it's not a car and it's fairly heavy. A few seconds delay? I would be looking for leaks in the turbo plumbing--or a bad turbo or two. Also, a supercharged engine is always going to be more immediate on boost. My guage reads in pounds and I believe the most I've seen is 6 but not positive as I don't really look at that in the WOT situation: the road ahead is more important at that point! If you are getting one coil pack, you should just replace them all to avoid chasing your tail. As has been observed many times in many forums I follow, if one is bad more are right behind! No pro mechanic here, but I suspect a lot of your trouble begins with that "tune."
  11. I've chased my tail several times with this system on a---2011 Turbo, too! They are terrific when working properly, as you know. Have you tried the old spray-with-soapy-water-trick on all the junctions? Good luck!
  12. I will do so. Just annoyed I had a PPI done. Would you not think it would pick that up if someone was halfway competent?
  13. I bought my 2012 S (yes, it's a 997) about 15 months ago. It has 75,000 miles presently. It has had a vibration at higher speeds the entire time. I considered a balance problem but went ahead with the purchase of a NVH software program. It confirmed the balance issue and I had them done. They also checked for runout and any other anomalies. When I got it back, I took a roughly 1000 mile trip, and the vibration was present the entire time. I checked with the NVH program which is now telling me it is an engine balance problem. The motor and transmission mounts are new OEM. I had changed the plugs and coil packs already. Tires (Michelin) still have good tread. It starts fine, pulls strongly and uses no oil, but just has that vibration at 70mph and up as well as at idle. I have an old 986 Boxster which is dead-smooth, so I expected the same of the 997. Is that a characteristic of the new engine?
  14. Looks like mine when I got it from auction. Two airbags were bad, the rear hydraulic antiroll bar line was blown and the pump was trashed and I had a list like this. Keep plugging, you'll get it done!
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