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vza

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Everything posted by vza

  1. vza
    Ok...well now I know better. With all your experience and knowledge....what do you think ? considering the system wasn't closed. Any damage? Thanks V
  2. vza
    Just for peace of mind after a potential mistake.... I introduced some compressed air thru the overflow tank to force out residual coolant when Flushing. Four hoses were disconnected at the time and coolant came rushing out. Now I'm reading you can damage head gaskets and seals and so on if you over pressurize...considering the system was open(disconnected hoses) I'm assuming I didn't cause any serious damage. Thanks V
  3. vza
    Yeah I figured as such....2.5 HP 20 Gal. I'll give it another go, see what happens. Like I said I did it with the compressor off, so it definitely fell well below 90PSI while connected. Thanks V
  4. vza
    Well of course its never that easy. Attached my vac.tool(its a knockoff from ebay) Somehow I can't draw vacuum on the coolant sys. I'm I missing something here? Did same in video except going off the expansion tank in engine bay. All hoses reattached and clamped, valve nice and tight in expansion tank. I removed the tool and attached shop air and plugged suction hole and it drew vacuum......it just doesn't work when attached to expansion tank. I had my compressor up to 120psi and just shut it down and connected to venturi. Should I have left it on so it would just kick in while connected to venturri.....didnt think I needed that much compressed air but maybe thats what my problem was. Thoughts?
  5. vza
    Ummm... after 4-5 min open which valve. Air bleed valve?
  6. vza
    Happy Holidays all!! Going to fill coolant sys with vacuum tool. Some say pinch 2 lines going to filler cap in trunk....others don't mention it. Also.. what to do with bleed valve open or closed during vac process. Thanks V
  7. vza
    Not many resources replacing coolant for 987. Would it be the same as a Cayman? 987 has no drain plug as in a 986. Thanks V
  8. vza
    Will do. So if its jammed open water will be circulating thru the whole system and taking longer to get to operating temp? V
  9. vza
    OK....so to the next project. 08 Box Recently took it out for a drive engine overheated needle normal then suddenly pinned to right. Shut down immediately let it cool drove it home where it overheated again....shut done immediately. Then....the temp gauge stopped working(didn't move anymore) replaced the coolant temp sensor ....now it moves but the car never warms up(let it sit for 1/2 hr needle gets between 10-11 o'clock) No hot air blows from the air vent with temp thermostat on high. What gives ?? Stuck closed thermostat? Was going to drain the system ....planning on replacing thermo and water pump BUT wanted to do a compression test to even see what health the engine is in before spilling $$$. Can't get it to operating temp for the compression test. Thanks Vince
  10. vza
    LOL...
  11. vza
    Thanks Jeff....I have a bonafied declutching pulley.
  12. vza
    Yes, Is there a way to tell if its a declutching pulley on my new one? V
  13. vza
    Ok so I got my reman Bosch alternator. The pulleys look the same on new as old but act differently. They both have a plastic covers which I think means they are a free wheel lock pulley. The old pulley turns the stator one way (not forward and backwards)if I stop the pulley the stator continues to turn(guess thats when its free.) The new pulley seems to turn the stator both ways ...forward and back and does NOT allow the stator to continue to rotate when stopped with your hand.(not free). I assume the free wheel mechanism engages at a higher rpm and the pulley is bad on my old one as well.V
  14. vza
    Managed to get my alternator out and I think I need more than Voltage Regulator. I noticed 2 wires burned up(pic of 1 of them) I guess these are wires to the Diodes. I did smell some electrical burning when test driving .....maybe the alt? Would it be okay to use an alternate reman alternator ie.AC Delco. They are less expensive than the Bosch. Thanks V
  15. vza
    Should I take a chance and replace the regulator first? V
  16. vza
    Tested the fans with a new battery and they both activated with the durametric. There seems to be a lot of low voltage issues i suspect a bad alternator.
  17. vza
    Ok...Battery tested good ...but ....it wasn't the correct battery for the car so I dropped in a new one. Measured voltage across terminals w/ engine running and got around 10.5 volts. I assume its the alternator or voltage regulator. Will check connections and ground. Any thoughts. Thanks V
  18. vza
    OK...just 12V from the batt to the connector?
  19. vza
    OK Thanks gents...I'm counting on you guys getting me thru this project. Lots more questions coming your way. V
  20. vza
    Yeah, I had the bumper off briefly before I road tested it(really!) The bumper reinforcement piece was missing and one bracket for it was trashed. AC line a bit banged up. No sign of damage near the fans. Are there 2 fans.. one on each side? Should the durametric turn both on together? Thanks V
  21. vza
    Ok.... so it could still be the battery even though I'm only getting 10 or so volts with the engine running across the terminals? V
  22. vza
    Did an Alternator test by attaching a multimeter to my terminals with engine running. It read about 12 volts then proceeded to go lower, at some point down to 10.5. I assume the alternator is not charging the battery or there is a connection problem, possibly the ground. The batt is not holding a charge either. Thoughts? V
  23. vza
    I tested my fans today(or thought I did) on my 08 Box Base with my Durametric. When I activated the fans I only heard only the R side fan go on and it didn't sound that good, sounded sort of labored and then it stopped after a few moments. Didn't have to stop it with the durametric. Happened when I repeated the test. What is my next step? Thanks V
  24. vza
    Bump
  25. vza
    Ok thanks ...thats what I was thinking...no issue if coils are removed anyway. V
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