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vza

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Everything posted by vza

  1. vza
    Forgot..do I need to remove the center nut for IMS and reapply curil and locktite or just torque it down. I torqued to 7.5 already. Spacer just rests behind guide tube. Correct?
  2. vza
    Ok...So that spacer just rests behind the guide tube. Where do I apply lube ....thin coat on guide tube and on splines? Thanks for helping JFP.
  3. vza
    Also(sorry couldn't fir 2 pix in one post).... When removing the guide tube this metal washer flopped out exposing ball bearings and dripping some trans fluid. Does it just rest behind the guide tube? What are the torque values for the guide tube bolts(3) I found 26 Ft Lbs ...... What kind of lube on the guide tube, shaft and pivot if any? Thanks Again...V
  4. vza
    Well ....some more questions: The throw out bearing and the arm pictured is correct? Goes on the spindle facing out as shown.(I'm almost certain but wanted to double check.) Also...What is the IMS torque value on the center bolt/nut... LN Engineering says 7.5 FT LBS. seems light to me Pelican says 24 Ft.Lbs also If I have to re-torque it to 25 do I have to remove the nut...clean it and re-apply the curil T and the Locktite?
  5. vza
    Yup...that's it...took a while to find...was looking for the hex bolt.
  6. vza
    Thanks for the response.....somehow that 3rd tensioner had a hex fitting. Make any sense?? V
  7. vza
    Some questions. I only removed the 2 tensioners on the flywheel side. The 3rd was in the front buried under the AC compressor. Ims cover came off and went in without a hitch...was this procedure ok? Got lazy and didn't want to pull the compressor. LN engineering says to put locktite wicking to the center threads not sure what that is. Do they mean blue or red or another type? Also...the center bolt turned while trying to get the nut off (flat blade slipped a few times.) I assume that's ok. Thanks v
  8. vza
    So I cleaned up the crank shaft and IMS cover area and locked the cams on Bank 1, prepping to replace the RMS and IMS seal (porsche does sell the IMS seal separate). Few questions: LN Engineering says to pull all 3 tensioners (when replacing the bearing) is it necessary to pull all 3? Why do you have to pull any of them when I'm only removing the flange cover for the IMS(just curious). Should I replace the 2 bolts that hold the engine block halves together while I'm in there? Also, took quite a while getting the locking tool to bolt down (had to grind a bit of the shoulder off the tool cause it wasn't allowing it to be seated in the top cam,and the hole wasn't aligned). After getting the bottom in the cam slot I had to pull the locking pin out of the TDC hole and wiggle the tool a bit then tap it in to the top groove of the cam....then replace the locking pin in the TDC hole. It all looks good. TDC pin in place and both blades of the locking tool well seated in the cam grooves and bolted down. Hope I didn't cause any weird problem for myself. Thanks again for getting back and answering my questions, renntech has been a great resource. V
  9. vza
    Oh ok ..so the oil caused the flywheel to fail. Thanks for the response.
  10. vza
    Hi all, Pulled my trans off 08 Boxster (you can do it without removing the muffler!!) and got at my RMS which I suspected was leaking now I'm not sure. There is some residue at the bottom of the RMS seal but tons of what appears to be grease around the IMS cover. I imagine the best thing to do is the RMS and a new IMS cover and gasket. Also... pulled my Flywheel off, did the test where you move it in both directions and see if it springs back. Well it definitely moves both ways 1/2 inch or so but does not spring back at all. There were no clutch issues. The car only has 42,000 miles on it seems premature for a FW to go. What say all. Thanks V pics
  11. vza
    Ok....well maybe I'll be making history here....I'll let you know. V Update....History made...pulled the trans with mufflers in!!
  12. vza
    Hi All, So I started pulling parts off to remove my 5 speed man.tranny and I'm trying to avoid taking the mufflers off.....not too sure if its necessary. The bolts are up and behind the pre cats and are rusted and rounded and not easily accessible. So...I removed the muffler bracket from the back of the trans and from the mufflers. Gives me about 5 inches to pull the trans back and drop it. It will also clear the crossmember that sits right below the trans. I can give myself way more room if I remove the c clamps and remove the muffler tip but not sure if thats entirely necessary either. Thoughts?? Thanks V
  13. vza
    OK, Which tensioners are removed(forgot) ...and just replace the IMS flange 'as is' or do i need to replace a gasket. Thanks Vince
  14. vza
    On to the next project. Doing the rear main seal on my 08 boxster. Is the depth still 13mm for the seal or is there an updated number, thought I read 14mm somewhere. Also, any thoughts on taking the rubber seal off the front of the IMS bearing. Read conflicting reports about doing it or leaving it alone. Thanks Vince
  15. vza
    OK....well I replaced both so hopefully all is well. Thanks V
  16. vza
    2008 Boxster...I wanted to check Variocam solenoids because my Boxster dosen't seem to have as much power as it should. When activating the cams with Durametric there wasn't any change in the engine note. When I activated valve lift I did hear a change in the engine. No CEL's... Is there anything I'm missing? Update....I just went for a test drive and seems everything is normalo(almost] I'll attribute it to new coils and plugs and new altenator.. I have a CEL for ambient temp ...car had front impact so I think it's the sensor in the bumper. There were many faults in the durametric having to do with voltage issues I cleared them hoping they had just popped up cause I had a bad altenator. Thanks V
  17. vza
    What is the spec for compression....just curious.
  18. vza
    Hi,I have some results from a compression test : 4 263 1 260 5 269 2 265 6 270 3 260 From what I've read these numbers seem high...but they are less than 10% apart. Thanks V
  19. vza
    Thanks....I got it all apart and cleaned. Now to get it back together!!
  20. vza
    OK, Any tips on getting that forward resonance tube off? I removed the 4 hose clamps but it dosen't budge. V
  21. vza
    OK, So remove the forward most plenum tube as well? The rear was easy. The forward one isn't budging, does the intake manifold have to be loosened to get that off? I think there's a long AOS tube that disappears into the bottom somewhere.....what about that one? V
  22. vza
    Hi All, Replacing AOS 08 Boxster and cleaning out plenum and plenum tube. Is it necessary to clean the forward tube(closest to firewall). Seems like more of a pain to remove. I'm assuming most of the oil from the failed AOS is getting into the tube the AOS is attached to which is the rear tube. Thanks V
  23. vza
    Did the best I could adding coolant with vac sys. I wasn't able to completely remove air from the hose when priming it with coolant so some air got in the system. (air bubble in coolant pick up hose)I ran the car at idle for half hour got a blinking light for low coolant kept revving and adding coolant with the bleeder valve open couldn't get the light to stop. Another thing .....my temp gauge didnt budge and heater is blowing cool air. Then my AOS failed....bellowing white smoke. Ugh.
  24. vza
    Ok thanks. Leak test done....gasket out of place on newly installed Water Pump, holds pressure now. Will move onto filling with coolant. V
  25. vza
    Can be a lot of things. On my '99 I thought it was the bulb, swapped one out still had the flickering problem, then swapped the starter(for halogens) still had the problem. Then I opened up the casing where you replace the bulbs and took a closer look. Almost all the wiring insulation had cracked off the wires leaving bare metal to short out intermittently. I had to rewire the headlight assembly. Good luck. V PS Could also be the light switch .....replaced that as well....was trashed and broken to little bits on the insde.
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