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vza

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Everything posted by vza

  1. vza
    Ok, thanks John great help. Where is this relay bay in the footwell near the fuse box. Don't recall anything in the engine bay.
  2. vza
    Hobbyist mechanic so bear with me. ...1st off not too sure how to check voltage on each pin. Do I ground multi meter to engine and just use the pos lead on multimeter to check voltage from those 2 pins?(one at a time) I just had the multimeter connected to the 2 pins on the connector is that incorrect ? I started investigating DME relay ...is that the same as the ECM relay? There's 2 relays near L tail light in the trunk. One green w 5 pins and one black w 4 pins. Is the 5 pin one the ECM relay? Other may be fuel pump relay. Also remember both solenoids don't activate with the Durametric. I just checked bank 2 solenoid w the 9v battery and it activated as you know. Didn't try bank 1 solenoid cause it's not as easily accessed. Would a failing ECM relay cause both not to activate, if so maybe that's the prob. I noticed it's also intermittent, CEL lights blinks sometimes then goes to solid CEL and then it just goes off sometimes.
  3. vza
    .25 volts at idle to 5v when engine is reved over 3500rpm. Can't identify correct pin for checking resistance. Looks like red/grn and gry/brown wires at solenoid connector.
  4. vza
    New batt and alt. So 12v at solenoid connector?
  5. vza
    I only connected a light to the solenoid harness. Was dim at idle then grew brighter w increased RPM's. Ok..so check for resistance between solenoid connecter to appropriate pin going into DME. Only 2 pins. Then back probe solenoid connector with engine running to see voltage. What voltage should I see.?
  6. vza
    Ok, activated bank 2 solenoid with 9v battery and there definitely was change in the engine note(almost stalling). Opened my DME and no evidence of burnt components.Any thoughts to do next. Voltages at the connector? V
  7. vza
    Oh boy. Ok I'll do some more troubleshooting. The car I believe sat around for a long time before I purchased. I'll check as follows: Check coil pack connectors. Activate solenoids and check realtime cam angle w Durametric. Try to activate w 9v battery. Check oil strainer (maybe it's clogged...forgot to check it when I had it out) Any info on what the voltages should be at different RPM's? Maybe I can check the voltages as well. As fore mentioned the bulb had a dim glow at idle then grew brighter as I increased RPM's. Thanks for your input John greatly appreciated. V
  8. vza
    Ok, I would definitely hear the engine note change right? OR I would see the cam angle change when activated...(if it's possible to view cam angle and activate the solenoid together with the Durametric.) Never tried that. How likely that both are bad. Don't hear a change on either banks when activated. There are 2 solenoids on each bank, the others located between 2 coil packs are the valve lift solenoids, correct. V
  9. vza
    Reread JFP's post. 'if the unit does not assume an active position when energized in the engine, it has a problem.' I'm assuming any bench test w a 9v battery wouldn't matter the solenoid can still be malfunctioning. Should I replace the solenoid? Thanks V
  10. vza
    Did the light test. Very dim light at idle. Not sure if there's supposed to be current at idle, when rpms were increased the bulb grew brighter I guess voltage was increased along w RPM's. I removed the solenoid and cleaned and tested it w 9v battery. Seemed to move freely and clicked. Not sure how much the plunger supposed to move. It didn't protrude from the end of the solenoid. Reinstalled with same misfire on 4 and 6. Going to reseat 4 and 6 wires to coil pack see if that does anything. Any ideas? V
  11. vza
    Ok...I'll do the tests and report back.
  12. vza
    Right... so then the solenoids are bad. Just looking for a definitive way for testing them. If there's energy in the circuit from the light test and when the solenoids are activated by the Durametric using the 'Camshaft Adjustment' command and the solenoids don't make a change in the engine the solenoids are bad. Only good thing is you dont need to remove the covers and cams to replace them. Is there a way to bench test the solenoids? V
  13. vza
    If the light lights up it means I have power in the circuit therefore the solenoids are bad cause there's no engine note change when activated with the durametric. (of course when everything is plugged in after the light test) Correct? V PS By gonzo I meant bad. Wasn't a typo.
  14. vza
    OK, so if I get a light it would mean my solenoids are gonzo. Correct? V
  15. vza
    Does the 'Cam adjustment' on Durametric activate the solenoids? V
  16. vza
    Yes, cam adjustment activates the solenoids? So both are bad cause I don't hear engine change or ...Yes I can test w a light. Or both. Thanks
  17. vza
    Hi All, Have some misfire CELs show up. CEL blinks then stops blinking and on some occasions it disappears. Changed plugs and coil packs a year or so ago, not much driving mostly being restored. Was fine and this came up after painting. With using my Durametric I assume camshaft adj. would mean activating the variocam solenoids. There was no change in engine note when activated on either bank. There is a change in engine note when valve lift is activated. Cam deviation is nearly 0 both banks. I know with a 99 box I was able to attach a light bulb to the solenoid connecter to insure voltage was getting through from the DME. Can I do the same w the 08 and I believe it kicks in around 4000 rpms. Thanks V
  18. vza
    Yes where's the cable go...the secondary hood release? (The one with red release.)?
  19. vza
    Any tips on assembling the convertible top arms to the transmission and top. Everything was removed for painting. I tried reinstalling and so far snapped one of the small arms. Don't want to do it again. I can get everything clipped in then have a hard time getting the soft top ball connected to the adjusting arm. I suppose its because the top is fully closed but the trans is in the service position. It's difficult to hold the top in the service position while trying to snap the ball in its socket. Thanks V I got it...I had the small arms upside down. Can't rely on exploded views ...although they are helpful most of the time.
  20. vza
    Ok...actuator #16 sits in there with foam. Where does the #17 actuator cable connect to? Thanks V
  21. vza
    Confirmed ....new switch needed. Two more questions....The frunk actuator dosent seem to get bolted in anywhere. Does it just sit behind the liner freely? And...the emergency Frunk cable(cable from another actuator on the passenger side of the release) ...does the cable connect to the secondary hood release? Thats what I've seen online but dosent make much sense to me.
  22. vza
    Remove L wheelwell cover. There's a few torx screws and 10mm plastic nuts. There is one bolt that holds the tank in, access it from the underside of the tank. It bolts upward into the sub fender(if you wanna call it that) work the tank out of the 2 rubber grommets on the right side of the tank. It should expose your washer motor. There are 2 motors if you have headlight washers. The outer motor (the easy one to access) is the headlight motor.
  23. vza
    I'm getting continuity on pins 3 and 6 when the trunk switch is thrown. Nothing else when the frunk switch is thrown on any other pins. I initially thought both weren't working but ill double check see if the trunk works. Otherwise I assume its a bad switch.
  24. vza
    Right... There will be no resistance when the switch is activated. Correct ?
  25. vza
    Hi All,Reassembling my painted 08 Boxster and found my frunk release isn't working. Car had front end damage so I replaced the damaged actuator with a used one. Is there a way to troubleshoot the actuator and the switch on the sill. I don't hear any sound or clicking on front or back latches. Do they share the same fuse? Fuse numbers would help as well. Thanks
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