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vza

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Everything posted by vza

  1. Ok...but I'm correct in assuming that about the outcome?
  2. So if I jump the low pressure switch bypassing it allowing the compressor to run and it doesn't blow a fuse then I know it's the switch. There's 3 terminals in the switch I know one is hot. How do I jump the switch. Of course if it blows a fuse then I guess it's wiring issue. V
  3. I figured I would disconnect associated components to find which is the bad one...since I'm not too inclined to find wires to test amps. I swapped the ac relay w new one thats located in left rear trunk, disconnected cooling fan control module, disconnected ac low press switch and ac compressor. Head unit remained on and was able to activate all switches. Fuse began blowing when I plugged the low pressure switch in. Not sure what that means...don't think it's the switch I think it just supplies 12v to the compressor and the compressor does go on(clutch engages) when it's plugged in but then immediately blows a fuse which makes me think it's the compressor. After that I checked resistance on ac clutch coil by putting a meter between wire coming off compressor and ground I got over 8 ohms which is out of spec. Thoughts? V
  4. Ok what do I do?😁 I already disconnected the compressor wire but it still blew. The hvac controller goes out as well w the blown fuse.
  5. So your saying it's another component? V
  6. Hi All, Ac wasn't working few months back clutch wasn't engaging...I thought because of a leak and low refrigerant. Replaced an ac pipe, receiver dryer and expansion valve. Pulled vacuum and charged, was working...could have been cooler. That was during the winter in the garage ( northeast). Now suddenly its blowing a B10 25A fuse. Disconnected the compressor wire figuring it was the compressor but it's still blowing fuses. Thoughts? Thanks V
  7. Ok..I have the limited 2 car ver. Is it possible I just have 2 bad solenoids even though they activated with a 9v battery. Maybe that's not the correct way to diagnose them. V
  8. No parts for steering column but I fixed it (hack) if anyone's interested in repairing telescopic lever. Still unable to activate variocam solenoids with durametric. Is it the software for the durametric. No CEL 's. Thanks V
  9. Ugh...that's more than I paid for the car...nothing I could have done to upset by pulling the linkage (towards the rear). Thanks ill check if thar part is available.
  10. Ok ..got my ECU back from the 'Doctor' car seems to run fine with no fault codes. Turned my ECU wasn't holding or memorizing the flashed software so they had to give me a rebuilt one and reprogrammed it fot my car.. ...ouch. Didn't try and activate my solenoids with my Durametric yet. BUT...I have a part that broke off the steering column ...I'm sure it's the spring attached to the end of the telescopic lever cause the lever now flops around. Can I replace the part?. Also...now my airbag light Is on. And...when pulling my steering column out I had to pull in and out moving the linkage to the rack quite a bit I never detached the linkage but wondering if I disturbed a dust boot or something. 1st Pic is my floppy steering lock. 2nd is broken part (plastic screw set) with spring. Thanks V
  11. Thanks...will see what happens!!
  12. Ok...so that may be my issue then? My issue on a different thread :
  13. So I sent my ECU (DME) to get it checked and repaired if need be. Turns out the programming was corrupted (so they say) and they have to reprogram it to my specific car. Does this sound right??? Thanks V
  14. I finally decided to just send my DME (ECU) into Specialized ECU Repair. BUT....along with ECU and Immobilizer they want the steering lock module which I believe is located above the steering column. Any hints on how to get at it. Service manual shows 2 long bolts at the top of the column then it looks like I can drop it down and remove the module..... I got it. The repair manual had not very specific pixs. Thanks V
  15. Hi All, Having issues with variocam solenoids and starting to narrow it down to bad dme wires on bank 2. I checked continuity between the solenoid connectors and DME connector #5. On the Bank 2 side I get continuity with all pins 1 thru 9 with no continuity to pin 5(ground) when both leads were tested from the solenoid connector separately of course. Hope that makes sense...In other words...pin 1 on solenoid connector has continuity with all pins 1 thru 9 with the exception of pin 5 (ground.) Same follows suit from pin 2 on solenoid connector to DME connector. Continuity on all 1 thru 9 except pin 5 ground. Bank 1: Continuity between solenoid (grey/red) and pin 7 on DME harness. Pin 2 solenoid(red/blue) has continuity with all pins 1 thru 9 with the exception of Pin 5(ground) AND Pin 7. I'm assuming both banks should have the same results(I could be totally wrong). Any help? Original thread here: 08 Boxster Misfires - 987-1 Boxster Convertible Top Issues and Solutions - RennTech.org Community
  16. Well I cleared it a bunch of times and it always returned. I'll run it for a bit see what happens now after the swap. . . And....the solenoids not activating is a totally different issue? Or is it related?
  17. Cylinders 4 and 6. I swapped the coils and plugs with 1 and 3 and ran the car for a bit with no cels. So not sure what that means.
  18. Ok, Getting back to the issue here. (I took a break) So I have 2 issues the 1.misfires and 2. the solenoids not turning on? I thought the solenoids not engaging would cause the fault code but I suppose the solenoids aren't activated until a certain RPM is reached. V
  19. Same results with new relay. I then checked voltage on each wire of bank 2 solenoid. 14.9 red/grn with little or no fluctuating when revved. 14.6 on brn/gry with lower voltage when revved...maybe down to 10v So kinda lost here. I guess I could swap plugs/coils see if it follows, doubtful cause they were replaced. Then check for low resistance in the wires from solenoid connector to pins for DME. Was looking at wire diagrams but couldn't find pin # on any DME connectors for red/grn and brn/gry wires.
  20. Ok, Ill report back after I try the new relay. Thanks again. V
  21. Right so one part of the circuit is shared...so it still might be the relay....no?
  22. Crap...had my hopes up. Maybe theres 2 circuits downstream from the relay...spitballin here!! I'll try the relay anyway. See what happens. Maybe the relays totally shot, I did have a hard time starting at one point. Car cranked but wouldnt start. Then it did after a number of attempts. Briefly looked at wiring diagram. Both Red/Blu are shared with both solenoids maybe thats the issue with the relay?
  23. Makes sense. Fingers crossed. Thanks JFP
  24. I ordered 2 Bosch relays for 17.00(one spare) it was easier than checking all the voltages, especially on bank 1. Figured I'll give it a try. Would a bad relay cause the solenoid in both banks not to activate? Thanks V
  25. Ok maybe that's the wrong one in the trunk I found, I'll look under dash and get back. Thanks again
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