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vza

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vza last won the day on December 24 2019

vza had the most liked content!

About vza

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  • From
    Fort Lee,NJ,USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Boxster
  • Future cars
    None
  • Former cars
    None

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  1. Good News !! Maybe tracking it tomorrow!! Thanks V
  2. Hey JFP, I looked at the actual angle cam 1 and 2 on my Durametric. The values did change in both banks when I revved the engine 2500rpms or so. They were negative values... dunno what that means. See video thanks V 20241028_215004.mp4
  3. Oh ok sounds easy enough. "Actual angle for cam shaft." I see it on the Pic you posted. So if the angle changes my variocam is functioning. Should I see change 24 degrees or am I just looking for a curve when revving. Thanks big help as always.
  4. Hmm..explain simple terms. Select Cam1/cam2 deviation. Rev engine and I should see a intake increase 24 degrees over what the exhaust cam is. Correct...sort of made that up. The cams don't adjust until a certain RPM 2000 ish?
  5. Okay Do I select.. cam pos 1 and 2 on the durametric? What is the spec? Is there a spec for % cam angle at a certain rpm? Thanks.
  6. How about this. Is there another way to look at the cam angle change(think thats what its called) like you said when increasing RPMs rather than just activating the solenoids.
  7. Joke ...I know no sealer..nada...niente... Just to touch on the variocam. My previous DME was deemed faulty (I had misfires and was checking the Solenoids) and was replaced by Doctor ECU. Since the new DME I have no CEL's but checked the variocam sys by trying to activate my cam adj with my Durametric and they still won't activate....they did however activate w/ a 9v battery. Today I was talking with a local Indy and he said the Durametric has always been glitchy (definitely agree) and if I'm not currently getting any CELS and the car isn't running badly I'm over thinking it and I don't have any issues. John you said the same here: Would you agree? So it would be safe to assume I'm good. Correct??
  8. Yeah you're right just anxious to run it but it dosent make sense. I'll see what my options are. Thanks John BTW I would never ask what sealer to use on cam caps. Regards V
  9. Off topic..Any harm in tracking the car with my variocam solenoids not activating. Not totally sure bout that....no CEL's I couldnt hear engine note change when trying to activate w Durametric. ...only when I jumped them w a 9v battery. Thanks V
  10. Okay well the good news is I think I found my source then because all four were missing. I found 4 new plugs I ordered so it turns out I never installed them. I'm also reading that aftermarket AOS can cause an issue and that's what I used I think I used a Uro part. Considering i never installed the plugs i probably ok. Thanks V
  11. Ok what does that mean... When I first got the car I pulled the trans did the FW,RMS and IMS seal. Then ...checked the timing. I'm sure I put the plugs back in but I cant be 100% sure. Would that be the sorce of the leak I've read you can loose a lot of oil from here. I replaced 2 qts of oil and revved the engine while looking at the spinning cam ends but they were dry... no oil.
  12. Did so. Not finding anything. Noticed the green rubber cam covers are missing. All 4. Is that a possibility?
  13. Well I thought I was done w/ my project car. Issue 1: In route to pre track tech inspection to track I was watching my temp guage and it was at 12 o'clock then pinned all the way right for 20 seconds...went back to 12 pos. Too and fro back and forth. I assume i have a some air pockets in my cooling sys that I recently changed( yes with venturi tool). So I'll try and get air pockets out by driving and adding coolant. Or emptying coolant and refilling w coolant. ISSUE 2: Upon arriving at pre track inspection the whole underside was splattered with oil. AOS was previously replaced.... looked clean. Oil dripping off L axle and R side coolant hoses near front of engine. From the top it looked like there was more oil on the R side but difficult to find the source of the leak. Any suggestions as to where to start. Or most likely source of leak. Thanks V
  14. Problem solved. I backed off a little more on the lock nut for the steering column and the brake pedal snapped right back. No dragging brakes.
  15. Well not really. They go on fine. I found that my brake ped is not fully retracting so the brakes are dragging. Stays depressed bout an inch keeps the brake lights on as well. Car dosent roll on it own unless i put my foot under the ped and pull up. This is a project car and did new rotors/pads a year ago, they have no miles on them. BUT....my steering wheel adjust lock mechanism broke...the one that allows steering to adjust up/ down in/out. So i had the steering column out and after that repair is when i noticed the brakes are hanging. Im thinking i overtightened the bolt for the column that goes thru the brake and clurch ped. Maybe the overtightened bolt is restricting physical movement if the brake ped. Have to look at the book to see if the column bolt goes thru the brake pedal. UPDATE: I loosened the nut for the steering column less than a 1/4 turn and it imoroved the pedal return. I think i have to mess with it a bit. Feel free to chime in .B
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