Heavydee

Anton -- I had similar problems with my 1999. It ended up being one of the door lock mechanisms. Do yo have a way to read fault codes? Or, do you have a local indie Porsche mechanic that has a PIWIS to scan? Regards, Rob

This post is in regards to my 1999 Boxster. I recently purchased a set of LED headlights from Headlight Experts with the capacitors. As soon as I installed them, my directionals, high beams and fog lights are ceased working. Also, if you pull the head light switch to put on the fog lights, there is a high pitched electronic sound coming from the rear of the dash. I have checked all of the connections, and everything seems to be okay. I put the halogen bulbs back in, and the problems still exist. I have tried contacting Headlight Experts, and there customer service is through email only. They say that it has to be my mistake, and that I disturbed something else. Their stance is that the headlights are on a completely different circuit, and that it is completely my fault. They will not allow me to return the merchandise. I tried calling their sales line, where they informed me that it has to be my fault, and that they sold me an excellent product, and that I do not have the skills to put new headlights in my car. they also hung up on me twice. And, since I tried to install them, they will not take the headlights back. These guys are thieves. Now, does anyone have any ideas on what I need to do to fix my signal lights, fog lights, and high beams? I checked all of the fuses, and they are all good. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for all of your help, Loren. I think that the water damage happened with the previous owner when the car was left outside with a torn rear window. I will try to manipulate the passenger side door lock to see if that makes a difference. Fingers crossed, as I do not want to spend the money right now to replace the immobilizer.

Yes, the receiver is there. I never hear a clicking sound. the only sounds I get are the buzzing from the area of the immobilizer and the two horn beeps. Can you give me an idea of what the buzzing sound is?

The pin for the gas flap actuator is intact. By "central locking switch", you are referring to the switch on the dash, correct?

Loren -- When I use the key to lock, I get the two buzzing sounds and two horn beeps. The driver's door locks, but the passenger door does bot. When I unlock it, I get just the one buzzing sound. Yesterday, I took the driver's lock mechanism out of the door, but did not disconnect any of the wires. I manipulated it a bit, but still got the same reactions from the car when I tried to lock it with the fob. the dash button did nothing at all. I reset the spring clip on the locking mechanism, and put it back in the car. This resulted in the reduction of the codes down to just code 60. There is no question that a previous owner or mechanic had been in the doors before me, as the inner door plates are missing, along with some of the clips. If I were to do the same thing with the passenger side that I did yesterday with the driver's side, do you think that this could fix the problem? I am troubled with the fact that the gas flap does not lock either. Thanks for your help. Rob

Hi -- Thanks for your responses. I cleared the codes and tried to use the key fob to lock the car. It came back with only one code: 60 which I find very surprising. I did this twice, and got the same code. I still get the grinding/buzzing sound from the immobilizer unit, and the two beeps, and the doors do not lock. Is there anything else that I can try, or is my unit shot? Is there a way to test the unit itself? Thanks, Rob

I have a 1999 Boxster, 5spd manual, fully adjustable power seats. The central locking system is giving me problems. I removed the ECU from under the seat, removed the board, soaked it in 99% medical grade alcohol for several hours. I then drained it and dried it thoroughly. I also changed the ignition switch. Everything works, including the window drop, windows, interior lights. Car starts and runs without a problem. The only thing that still doesn't work is the locking/alarm system. I get what sounds like a buzzing, grinding sound coming from the control module under the seat, and then the double beep from the horn. I still have the following codes: 25 60 34 46 47 61 58 I called the local dealer, and they told me that it is usually an all or nothing response from the ECU, and that it is very strange that everything works except for the door locks. Before I spend the money for a new ECU and having it programmed, is there anything else that I can check or replace? Thanks for your help. Rob

Thanks, JFP, for your reply. I've owned the car for about three years, and have always kept it garaged. I didn't know about the issue of the drains until now. I have seen the cost of a new ECU, but do you have an idea of what it costs to get a new one programmed by a dealer?

Hi, everyone, I have tried to research these topics, but I am sort of at my wits end. My car is a 1999 Boxster with manual transmission with 131,000 miles on it. All of a sudden, the windows and door locks started to act very wonky. If I try to lock the car with the fob, you can hear the mechanical whizzing of the locks and then a double beep from the alarm, and the doors do not lock The lock button on the dash does not work. The driver's side door will lock with the key, but not the passenger's side. the windows are very peculiar. If they are both down, and I put the passenger side window up all the way, the driver's side window will go up without touching the button. My mechanic pulled codes, and this is what he got: Airbag: 03 -- Airbag warning supply 29 -- ignition circuit-side airbag, driver 49 -- belt buckle, passenger 46 -- belt buckle, driver 31 -- ignition circuit-side airbag, driver 21 -- ignition circuit, driver 45 -- belt buckle, driver Alarm System: 25 -- terminal 86 is not detected 36 -- passenger compartment monitoring sensor 42 -- wrong key or wrong transponder pill 11 -- voltage failure during alarm output 10 -- voltage failure at terminal 30 with alarm system active 46 -- control locking synchronization 34 -- passenger compartment monitoring sensor 47 -- control locking synchronization 58 -- tank servo motor not energized despite relay activation 61 -- central locking limit position unlock not reached He suggested that I should replace the M535 ECU. I have checked all of the related fuses, and I have checked the fuse on the M535. I opened the M535 box, and cleaned everything the best that I could. There were definitely signs that there had been water in the box. The car runs and drives, the convertible top works fine, I just can't lock the doors and set the alarm. Does this sound like it is an issue with the M535 box or more of the door locking mechanisms? Or, is it due to the electrical part of the ignition switch? Any suggestions, or ways to troubleshoot would be appreciated. Thanks, Rob 1999 Boxster, Arctic Silver over red, 5sp manual

I bought my 1999 Boxster 5-spd, US spec, with 127,000 miles on it three years ago. It had just had a new water pump and thermostat put in. I have since done front and rear brakes, new convertible top with glass window, repainted my wheels, new left side condenser, replaced the AOS, replaced shocks and struts, and had work done on the VANOS system. Right now I am battling a CEL light that gives me codes 1124 and 1126. I have cleaned the MAF and replaced the AOS, but I am still getting the codes. I found and fixed a couple very small vacuum leaks. Still get the codes. Very frustrating. I did the oil cap test, and this does not seem to be the problem. I would really appreciate any input on this topic. My next move may be to replace the fuel filter, as I have no idea when that was done. Last week, my a/c compressor and clutch blew up, so I am looking for a replacement. I have found a new Denso unit for around $320, plus the drier receiver for $15. Has anyone ever used either a remanufactured unit or the Nissens brand of compressor? The Boxster is not my daily driver, so I am wondering what is the best way to go on purchasing a new compressor. All responses would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The fuse seems to be okay. The windows will go up if the top is clamped shut, so that says to me that the micro switch is okay. (correct?). Is there something else that you would suggest? Thanks.

Thanks, Loren. I will check it out as soon as I can.

I know... I know... Just search, but I don't know where to start. Two years ago, I researched and trouble-shot my non-functioning top and got it to work by replacing the the sensor/switch at the top of the windshield. Everything worked perfectly until I went to put the top down today. Turned the car on, hand brake on, undid the clamp, the windows came down half-way, I pushed the top down button, and nothing happened. I played with the handbrake, turned the car off and on, and still nothing. the windows would not go up, even with the clamp reset, so I tried putting them all the way down and back up again. the passenger side went down, but would not come back up at all. the driver's window went down, but would only come back up to the point where the windows automatically lower to when the clamp is opened. Very frustrated. Any help on where to begin would be greatly appreciated. My car is a 1999 Boxster, 2.5, manual transmission. Thanks, Rob

I ended up opening the power seat switch slightly, just enough to get a small screw driver in there so that I could move the internal switches. Now the seat will move, but I have not yet taken it out. My passenger side switch needs to be replaced because it is shot. I am going to get a used one from DC Auto.