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MWS-Indy

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Everything posted by MWS-Indy

  1. MWS-Indy
    One last BTW :) , if you end up removing the door panels, a nice "might as well" upgrade I did was to pad and leather cover the flip up storage covers. Looks much nicer, and keeps my elbows happy.
  2. MWS-Indy
    BTW, when working with the dash speakers, wouldn't it be nice if you could pop out the windshield? I am sure you know what I mean....
  3. MWS-Indy
    By using only the internal amp on the head unit, you will see increased heat (will vary with the aftermarket unit). If you do have and aftermarket unit, you probably have a set of RCA's... If you have access to a small amp (if you have only dash speakers), try that option. I wouldn't worry at this point of trying to run through firewall, just tuck it behind the seat. An external amp will (obviously) reduce heat at head unit, but give more power and the option of more flexibility with speakers. By going this route, you could start planning a system that would really sound nice (even with top down). Upgrade the dash and door speakers (door panels are a bit of a pain to get off, but plenty of articles on how), and some rear fill (easy enough if you have the rear storage compartment option) and maybe some small subs. The possibilities are endless, and plenty of DIY information available. If you installed the head unit yourself, I trust you are good with the amp install; questions regarding this should be in a separate topic. Best of luck, and enjoy. Let us know what happens! :)
  4. MWS-Indy
    This is one thing that I really like about the 986, four DIN bays. Makes moving things around pretty easy; configure as you like. I once thought I would like the radio in the top lower din position, and it was a good idea in theory, but the slight upward angle made the display hard to read with the top down, so it got moved back to the second (original) position.
  5. MWS-Indy
    Just another thought... If you want to REALLY see if it is a heat dissipation issue (poor air circulation around head unit), drop the heat control to lowest DIN position (in your picture, where your lowest shelf is), and leaving the upper bay open (nothing there) drive around for a few days using radio/CD as normal. If doesn't overheat, then simply install the removed lower shelf where heat control was and you're done. If it does overheat, then I would start exploring other causes (speaker ohm resistance, amplifier, wiring, etc.). From my experience, start simple, then look for more complex issues. Just to clarify, do you have an external amp, or are you running only the amp on the head unit?
  6. MWS-Indy
    Just a thought, but if you have the center console apart, have you considered moving the climate control unit to one of the lower positions (where one of the 2 shelfs are located)? Not that the climate unit would be producing any heat, but moving to the lowest position might provide better air flow around radio. In my configuration, I have the cup holders (albeit useless) on top, radio below, CD holder (again, useless) below that and climate control at bottom. I still have the original CDR and have not had any failures, not even on the LCD. Also, does your car have the rear speaker kit? If so, (and I might be incorrect) but I thought those were powered by the head unit (amp only for front and door)... This could contribute to heat.
  7. MWS-Indy
    Final thoughts: I have considered a "reconditioned" unit, but am concerned with quality. As the unit I have now was replaced in '09 (and has no wear and probably less than 1500 miles of use), I considered trying to track down the Hella control board and rebuild myself, but think with possible other electronic issues I will go the dealer route. Replacement (with labor) should be less than $1000, and any electrical issues should be diagnosed. Big thanks to Ahsai for thoughts and input... Much appreciated! Lesson to share: It is POSSIBLE for a faulty climate unit to complete (somehow) the ignition circuit. Two dealers and an independent have never heard of this, but I can tell you it happened. Wish I could submit a picture of my running car with key not in ignition, but somehow I think the context would be lost. :) Porsche... Is it more fun to drive, or to try and figure out why you can't? Guess it depends on the weather.... ;)
  8. MWS-Indy
    Thanks again for your response, but I know the unit is bad (visual inspection & multimeter), my question would a replacement unit be damaged by some unknown electrical issue with car? I doubt it, but hate to by a new unit just to burn it out immediately. At this point I am thinking that I might leave this one to my local Porsche dealer. It might cost more (ok, a LOT more), but the part would be new and I wouldn't be running the risk of potential damage to a replacement part. Will call dealer tomorrow to check price, and if it's under $1500, I will go that route and leave happy... Poorer, but happy. Guess money can buy happiness, or at least parts. :)
  9. MWS-Indy
    Ok...update. Pulled the climate control interface and checked the voltage on E7, looks back to normal. Next was to disassemble the climate interface and found one of the I/C chips was bubbled (arg!). Now I am trying to figure out if the board caused the problem at the fuse box, or some issue (not yet found) caused the board to burn out. Hate to buy a new climate unit just to fry it too. Might be the old adage of the 1000 dollar part blowing to protect the 50 cent fuse. What would be wonderful would be a donor part to see if that fixes the problem, but I fear that isn't going to happen....
  10. MWS-Indy
    Also, I am thinking it must have something to do with switched power as the 10A fuse on back of CDR head unit was blown, replaced that and at least now I have music...too bad I don't have heat. :(
  11. MWS-Indy
    Fan electronically controlled by climate unit, no dial, just buttons to adjust speed. Also, if E7 is switched, wouldn't it read voltage only when key is on? It's just the opposite, when voltage tested @ E7 terminal, voltage reads 12v w/ no key, 0v with key in acc position. What really has me stumped is why E7 w/ fuse would keep car running without key. Btw, we are on same page, my next step is to remove climate unit to see if breaking the circuit solves this issue (and means new climate control unit). Thanks, and additional input really appreciated! :)
  12. MWS-Indy
    Question regarding '01 986... I have had car in storage for about 3 years and have been working to bring back to life. Have had many electrical gremlins, have resolved all except: Climate control unit- fan stuck on high, display dead, only way to shut off fan is by pulling 30A fuse at position D6. Checked all fuses, ok except 7.5A at position E7 (air conditioning system). Replaced fuse (here is where it gets weird) and without key, when fuse is inserted dash lights up, all systems active (as if key is in acc position). Checked voltage w/ at fuse, shows 12v when key off, 0v when key on. Just out of curiosity, I inserted fuse while car was running and when key was removed, engine kept running! As FYI, with 30A @ D6 and 7.5A @ E7 removed, all electrical systems ok. Suggestion PLEASE. :)
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