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Nothing more expensive than a cheap Porsche! Kidding aside, if you get it sorted out, they are great vehicles. I have a 2013 that's been my wife's daily driver for over 8 years and 160K miles. It now has 195K and I've just run into my first difficult problem--driveshaft center bearing has failed and I can't find the exact same part to replace it and I don't know if other CD/Toureg/Audi driveshafts will work. If all that emissions stuff continues to plague you and you live in a non-inspection state, I can highly recommend the Tunezilla tune and Darkside Developments DPF/SCR/EGR delete kit--it will run like a Porsche again and you can say goodbye to DEF.

Upon closer inspection, the bearing is shot, so the entire rear driveshaft needs to be replaced. My current driveshaft has part number 7P0.521.102.P stamped on it. So far I have been unable to find anything on the interwebs with that exact part number (I have found F, G, J, K, L, N, Q, and T, but no P). The Porsche dealer says it is part number 958 521 102 A--there are none available and might become available in Q1-2027!!! Does anybody know what the last letter on this part number signifies? How important is it to have the exact letter? If a substitute is possible, should I go for a letter before or after "P"?

2013 Cayenne Diesel 195K miles Has anybody tried this part to repair a failing drive shaft center support? Pelican Parts Search: drive shaft center support Any other options out there? DriveShaftCenter.MOV

What year is your car? I have wiring diagrams for 84-89. Have you checked your turn signal/headlight dimmer stalk switch-very common for this to cause headlight issues.

Congratulations on having a very rare car—the 1993 Boxster, haha! Don’t tell anyone, but some people have relocated the emergency frunk release to the tow hook screw in point in the front bumper.

Once engaged, it works at all speeds unless the vehicle comes to a complete stop--in that case, you will have to hit resume or the accelerator pedal. I don't know what that icon is, but looks like it might be some form of lane keeping assist?

In a 2011 (958) it's called Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC).

It works as you might expect—open door, turn key, close door to set. The real trick is (and maybe this is just mine) when you open the door, there is not enough time delay to get the key in and disarm the alarm, so I always set off the alarm when getting back in!

I have that alarm on my ‘86 Targa.

That definitely sounds like symptoms of a MAP (or MAF) sensor issue. My 2011 CTT will on occasion behave like you describe and it is easily remedied by removing the sensor and spraying it with MAF sensor cleaner. I'm guessing this happens about every 20,000 miles or so on mine with 100k+ miles. I bought a new sensor just in case, but it just rides along in the glove compartment waiting for the day when the cleaner stops working. If I let mine go long enough, it will eventually throw a "P1637 Pressure sensor ahead of throttle valve" code. Pretty sure your engine has at least one, check this part #: 94860618000,

Diagrams are from my Bentley manual covering 1997-2004 Boxsters. Note: these diagrams are for 2001, but there are no later years in this manual (maybe 2001-2004 are all the same?)

Update for anybody still wondering: I swapped my new Shrader equipped wheels on to my wife's 2013 Cayenne Diesel and had the exact same issue (front wheels not identified). I went to TPMSdirect and bought 4 HUF IntelliSens for $33 a piece. They arrived in BHsens IntelliSens boxes with a sticker saying they were programmed for a 2011 Cayenne Turbo. Same indy installed and 5 minutes later they were working fine. I'm pretty sure that HUF is the OE for Porsche and BHsens is their joint venture with a Chinese company. The sensors look, smell, taste and act like the genuine part. Bottom line: DO NOT buy Shrader 29138 for your 958 Cayenne.

So it's a few years later, a new set of wheels, tires, TPMS, and unfortunately an update on what TPMS does NOT work on my 2011 CTT: My old UVS2000 HUF Intellisens (installed 2017) were still working fine when I had my indy install a new set of Porsche wheels and Pirelli tires (went from 20" to 21"). I was unable to find the same sensors (discontinued) and my search led me to some very reasonably priced Shrader 29138 (Pre-programmed for Porsche) sensors. After install, the Porsche relearn procedure would only pick up the two rear sensors. After multiple tries and a call to Shrader tech support, I swapped front wheels to rear and rear to front. Again only the rear two sensors were picked up by the TPMS system. My current theory is that the Shrader TPMS outputs at a slightly lower signal strength and is unable to reach the TPMS antenna located on the rear axle. Any other thoughts or experience with these particular sensors is appreciated.

Just to be clear, there are two "resets" available under the Reset PCM menu: 1.Factory Settings 2.Vehicle Handover Vehicle Handover is the one you want.

Try this:

Many thanks Loren. That diagram was exactly what I needed. The valve in question is hiding in plain sight on the front of the engine, well obscured by the serpentine belt and a host of pulleys and not easily accessible due to radiator, etc.. For unknown reasons, the wiring was severed about four inches from the valve. The wiring harness gave me just enough play to back it out and do a soldering job in the left front wheel well. Reconnected and the code is now clear. My next question is, what is your source for the diagram? Do you have a repair manual recommendation? Locating that particular diagram would have saved me hours of fruitless internet research--Thanks again!

2013 Cayenne Diesel Problem: P164E00 Oil pressure control valve: electrical fault (No check engine light) Does anybody have any idea where this valve is located on the 3.0L diesel? I think I have found EVERY sensor/control BUT this one--is it underneath the intake manifold?

Yes-ish, it works in slow and go traffic. It works pretty well if you never come to a complete stop--if you do, you will have to hit resume to get the car to continue. Overall, I'm not a big fan of the system (although this could be because I'm not a big fan of the push towards automation of street vehicles--especially ones that are so good to drive). My biggest complaint is that in traffic it is not aggressive enough when re-accelerating (car ahead moves out of the way or picks up speed quickly), which invariably leaves enough gap for another vehicle to cut in front and actually push you to the rear of the pack! For me, it's best use is on the long single file construction lane that you can't pass or be passed on, it will keep perfect trailing distance and keep you from rear-ending the vehicle ahead as you fall asleep.

I think you’re looking for Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC). Don’t know when it first came out, but it’s on my 2011 Turbo. If it brakes the vehicle to a complete stop, it requires you to hit the resume switch in order to accelerate again, other than that it works like you’d expect.

I replaced the frunk and trunk lights on my 2003 with LEDs and they work great, no codes. Problem is sorting through the vast number of replacement bulb options out there. I probably got mine from ebay. I don't have a brand name, but here's a picture:

I think I now understand the difference in quantities. According to the manual, part of the procedure includes draining the ATF lines at the bottom of the transmission AND draining the front ATF lines. To drain the front ATF lines, you must remove and install the ATF thermostat--to do that, you must remove the front apron (bumper cover). Seems like a lot of work for maybe only a small amount of fluid to replace. So just a few last questions from the guy who doesn't want to remove the bumper: How much fluid did the initial fill require? How much fluid required to top off after the warmup?

Kenny, I have found a kit from Blauparts that comes with 9L of fluid, the manual I have says filling capacity is 10L, you said 10L gave you two changes--can you shed some insight? Did you drain the lines to the radiator? My manual also specifies 2 special tools (adapters) for filling, did you use these or were you able to fill and check levels without them? Thanks!

Did you have a bad wire or connector? I recently tried a cheap door lock actuator on my 2011 Cayenne Turbo. It worked intermittently and gave implausible signal codes so the alarm would not set. It was from a place called excellent-autopart on eBay. They were responsive until I asked for a refund then went comm out. This cheap Chinese part and this vendor is a non-recommend from me. The URO part from Rock Auto that is in there now has been working great--twice the price of the knockoff, but 30-50% less than the Porsche part.

I was hoping you would get some traction on this question as I have a 2013 CD with 160k and a 2011 CTT with 80k and I am contemplating doing the trans fluid on both. What did you end up doing with yours? Note: I have replaced the transfer case fluid in the CTT 15k ago with Ravenol TF-0870 and it is working well.

So I just replaced THREE (yes 3) rear door lock actuators. To recap: Left rear door exterior handle would not open the door after unlocking with keyfob or by proximity. Right rear door would not lock (and no confirmation beep). Since it was a bigger security issue, I replaced the RR first and decided to experiment by buying the $37 actuator from Hong Kong as found on eBay. The door lock would now physically lock, but the alarm would not set. Occasionally, the exterior handle would not work either. I was unable to clear DTC 000843 Central locking closing unit, implausible signal. Due to my experience with the $37 part, I decided to splurge for the $91 URO Parts actuator for the left side. This part worked perfectly and solved the problem. I then went back to Rock Auto and bought the URO Parts right side actuator (why this one costs $17 more than the left side remains one of those mysteries). The RR door is now working perfectly, all codes reset and alarm confirmation chirps occur when locking. Lessons learned: The screws that clamp the window regulator to the window glass are reverse threaded (at least as viewed from inside the car, the E-Torx end, size E-6). Pay attention to the torque specs here (4.5 ft-lb). If you shear this end off, you will kick yourself and likely spend the next week trying to figure out how to loosen that screw--ask me how I know. Reassembling: in order to reinsert the automatic shade rod, you will have to lift the door panel to the exact level that automatically disengages the upper tweeter connector--a mere 1 inch more of tweeter wire would have made this job almost too easy. I suggest you test the stereo before putting all the trim back on, my diagnostic tool speaker test warned me (an embarrassing number of times) that I had accidentally disengaged that connector! And yes, you will break at least one of these: 955 555 243 00.