Poze123

Hey Loren So I re ran the test this morning with the Durametric. This would be the 8 start/stop since I reset/cleared the codes a few days ago. I know the misfire codes will come back though. I filled with petrol last night and today I have these codes: P1340 Camshaft position with respect to crankshaft bank 1 exceeds P1531 Camshaft adjustment bank 1 So to describe my engine again. The engine runs extremely well once driving, pulls lovely and sounds great. The only noticeable problem is on start up, I get a very light "Chatter" noise from the engine And occasionally (maybe every 2 of 3 start ups) a quick light Tapping noise - the tapping seems to go away after a few mins of driving. But the chatter is noticeable when i'm on tickover for the duration of the drive. Many thanks,

okay will do - I'll be able to do this on Thur night I reckon. Do you think its worth buying that set of new Beru coil packs? or to early to say this? Thank you

Ps - 1999 Porsche 996, 3.4 Cabriolet. Owned for 3 years, well serviced on oil/fluids/brakes etc. Coil/Plugs never replaced by me, although I remember the Coil Packs were dated 2013. Car has done 97,000 miles. Slight leak from the RMS. Otherwise it drives lovely, Idle is a little tiny bit lumpy and there is a rattle on start up - I believe this is a worn chain guide, this soons stops after a few mins. Sounds like a well worn out car now I write this..... but I love it.

Hi all Been reading on here for an hour, but I would still appreciate any comments or further advice on my cars issues: I get 11 faults plus of course a warning light on the dash. The previous owner removed the bulb and as it was my first 996, I wasn't aware to check the bulb came on when the key was originally inserted. So I have these codes from my Durametric: P0300-MISFIRE DAMAGING CAT P0306-CYLINDER 6 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P0304-CYLINDER 4 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P0305-CYLINDER 5 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P1319-MISFIRE EMISSIONS RELATED P1316-CYL 1 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1318--CYL 6 MISFIRE EMISISIONS REL P1317-CYL 5 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1315 - Cyl 3 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1313 - CYL 1 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1340-CAMSHAFT POSITION WITH RESPECT TO CRANKSHAFT BANK 1 EXCEEDS LIMIT VALUE P1531 Camshaft adjustement bank 1 Any advice welcome - I have seen a cheap set of Beru Coil packs I could purchase (always on a budget for cars as these are a hobby and come second to the family (kids) requirements). So anything I can do free or clean would be great. Id rather not buy Coil Packs, but if these could help and reduce my worries, i'll go for them! (plus the spark plugs). Much appreciated, Paul UK- Dorset

Hey Thanks DBJoe. Is this the part you mention? :: http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod12461/Impluse---Speed-Sensor-Porsche-986---996-98660611202/ And is this "easy" to fit, or is it a major pain to install... (I'll do some research now ) If you think this is a possibility, i'll spend the £64 and grab one :) I have also ordered MAF cleaner and also Carb Cleaner to do the TB. I'll clean these two items once the gear arrives this week. Thank you

hi all Good evening! So I have used the car this weekend and got these lovely codes: P0300-MISFIRE DAMAGING CAT P0301-CYLINDER 1 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P0306-CYLINDER 6 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P3004-CYLINDER 4 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P0305-CYLINDER 5 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P1319-MISFIRE EMISSIONS RELATED P1316-CYL 1 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1318--CYL 6 MISFIRE EMISISIONS REL P1317-CYL 5 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1531-1340-CAMSHAFT POSITION WITH RESPECT TO CRANKSHAFT BANK 1 EXCEEDS LIMIT VALUE So just a few codes! The car runs well, there is a light knocking noise around the cam chain area, sounds like the right side of the engine. Only noticeable on tick over/idle. When I initially start the car, it revs to maybe 1500 rpm, then down to 800-1000 up and down a little, then idles perfectly around 800rpm after maybe 10 seconds of fluctuating. The engine management light then flashes and stays on. I only use the car at weekends So what's best to start on? Many thanks

Hey thanks guys for the replies, much appreciated. ok, I'll drive the car this weekend and see which codes come back - I cleared the codes on Sunday night. You mention cleaning the MAF unit , on the side of the airbox, I had a look online and it recommends cleaning it with proper MAF cleaner fluid, so I'll remove to inspect them if dirty I'll get the cleaner. Im not sure what the TB is and the fuel vent part? If you see this post , let me know... :) I'll order 6 plugs and I'll see what the cost of a MAF is. I won't do the coils as I see there £170 for a set and I can't afford that at the moment. I'll remove the MAF first though to inspect it. but I'd do anything that's a lower cost or that I can do myself as I'm pretty handy in the garage on the mechanical/cleaning side! many thanks!

Hi all The engine light comes on my 996 every so often, then goes off a few weeks later. I wasn't to concerned as the car drives well. So I got round to plugging it into the Durametric to look at the fault codes.... I've got loads of codes, P1340, P1531, P0300, P0306, P0304, P0305, P1585, P1319, P1318, P 1316, P1317, P0301, P0303! The car drives very nicely, loads of power and seems perfect when accelerating and driving. Feels perfect on the open road. The issue I have is a "tapping" noise on the engine on idle and a slightly eratic idle - its not much, but its not perfect. It sounds a bit like my 1955 VW Beetle. I was running 5W oil, but also changed it to 10w a month ago, but the tapping noise is exactly the same. Car has done 96,000m. So I'm keen to look at the codes and fix as many things as possible! So today I removed the spark plug/Coil pack covers on both sides to remove a spark plug from each side, the idea was that I could inspect them and the coil packs to see if there old or visually worn out. The plugs were NGK FGR6KQE 4 tipped plugs, with BERU coil packs all round. The plugs both looked great, normal grey/brown looking colours. The coil packs were dated Jan 2013 and visually looked clean and tidy. **I've owned the car about 18 months**. I was hoping the plugs may look old and I could just replace those to see if it improves, a fair £40 and Id get to spend some time hopefully improving the 996. I noticed that one of the middle "tubes" where the spark plug goes into was a bit wet with oil - the other two were dry. I see that its possible to buy new tubes for about £8 with the o-ring seals. The 3 tubes on the other side all looked dry, so just one that's seeping it seems. I'll work my way through the list of codes, but if anyone has any advice on these codes id love to hear from you! I see one of them was for a fuel vent, so I'm hoping a couple of codes could be cheap fixes. Many thanks, Paul Dorset.

Hi all Did a search but couldnt locate the answer. I need to get a new used brake caliper for the Rear right side of my 1999 C2 996. There's a couple on ebay listed for a 996. But would a Boxster rear caliper from the same era also fit? Visually they look the same and basically there's more choice on ebay for Boxsters being broken. If no ones sure, I'll remove my wheel and try and get the part number (just thought id save a extra job by asking on here :) ). Many thanks, Paul

Hello Jeff Good evening! Ive checked the motor unit, it is under the bonnet, to the left by the left headlamp (rigfht hand drive car ). Just removed the cover, it all looks mint and I checked the plug/wiring and all looks ok. Ran trhe software on the Durametric and i couldnt feel the pump at all, so itrs either very very quiet or just isnt affected by the Durametric. Trhe Durametric does states "Command sent" and something like" Command ok" or something to that effect. I rebled the brakes, got a bit more air out using the pressure bleeder at 20psi, then rebled again, using the Durametric and with the key on of course (just incase it was working). Pedal still felt similiar, maybe a bit better. Test drove for about 20mins, I managed to get the at least one wheel on the front to lock up on about 5-8 occasions, the discs were pretty hot by the end of 10-15 mins drive and burning rubber each time i locked a front wheel (felt like 1 wheel was locking). Took the car home and just bled the outer nipples again using the pressure bleeder and my foot, got some air out for sure. Had another test drive, feels a bit better, but the pedal still goes pretty low. the Brakes do work well, just the pedal is very excessive still. Rebled again and did a final test drive for the night. Question - when i locked up the front wheels, should i see the light come on? or how do i know if the ABS is working? i was doing generally 30mph then hard on the brakes with a small lock/skid just before it stopped, so not a long skid. I dont know if any of this info above adds any value? I spoke to Porsche today and they also suggested driving around to activate the ABS. They also suggested that sometimes the pedal travels to far anda rubber boot or seal on the master cylinder can tear- I dont know if this is viewable if i remove the plastic cover over the master cylinder? (Ive not taken that cover of before). I cant do any work on the car tomo except remove this plastic cover if needed, the wifes annoyed a bit so I've got a car free night! but Thursday night i can take a look. On a final note, i've booked the car into my local garage on Friday morning to do the Drop Links , he's also going to have a look at the brakes and probably use his professional type bleeder tool on it. Cheers, Paul

Thanks Jeff for the reply, much appreciated. Is this particular pump underneath the brake reservoir/master cylinder? I thought I read that there were two pumps in the same area, mines a Right hand drive car. Also - I just went outside , despite it being 1145pm, to check the v5 software --- basically the software loads but still states "Cable not connected", I don't know if you have any ideas? if not , i'll check the internet tomo and then email Durametric if I cant locate anything. I wasn't sure if the v5 SW may be better as this is an older car. just an idea anyway, so I can cover all basis. I'll check that pump tomo eve once I locate its location. Least I should be able to feel it vibrate. Thank you, Paul

I have also just spent an hour downloading V5 and all the drivers, a fresh download with all the Microsoft net, all as per the instructions. I was just expecting to press that Start button on the Booster Pump function, it would then whirr and pump and i'd just do each wheel, clean up and put the wheels back on. I don't know if the pump is just ultra silent, but now I search on the net, lots of people also mention that nothing seems to happen..... :)

On the intial setup screen (this is all on V6 of the software), I have lots of options but I'm choosing these: *Porsche 996 *Engine - ME5.2.2 for 1998-1999 *Transmission (I'm choosing nothing as this only shows 2 types of Tiptromnic- mines manual) *DSC/ABS - ABS/DSC/PSM 5.3 for C2 through 2001 *Instrument cluster - K03 fir 1998-2001 *Roof Type - Cabrio

Hello Jeff I want to post photos, but I don't think I have the access on my Rentech account. So I shall describe: I haven't got the exact page you have, mines a 996 with Traction Control only, no PSM. When I select my "ABS 5,3" folder on the software, I then get these options under Activations: 1) Return Pump (Start / Stop) 2)Switch Over Valve 1 (start/stop) 3) Switch over valve 2 (etc) 4) Booster Pump - * this specifically mentions Traction Control- it states "Applies only to models with traction control, Important: Open the bleed screw before starting. Cycle brake pedal while bleeding. It is normal to hear the pump on same wheels and not others"* 5) Booster-pressure valve 1 6) Booster-pressure valve 2 7) ABS Warning light 8) Information Light

Hello all So I've got my brand new £367 Durametric cable, looks very nice. But i spent 2 hours using it, using V6 software and basically i dont think its working correctly. I use the function "Booster Pump" which is the function that's for the Traction Control bleeding - it states to run this function for no more than 30 seconds every 5 mins, and for the pump to be heard on not all wheels. I didn't hear the pump at all. When I ran the function on the Durametric cable, it does flash when you start and the led goes static when you stop the function. The software states that "Command sent". But just odd that I don't hear a pump operate. Pedal feels the same. 3/4 down with the engine running. I do feel disappointed, but I have emailed Duramtetric for their advice. V5 of the software installs but does not recongise that the cable is plugged in. Theres nothing on YouTube and only negative comments on the net, so I just don't know - its causing me a lot of stress to be honest. Any advice welcome :)

Hi all I just need some advice on replacing the front drop links on my 1999 996 anti-roll bar, I basically cannot get the top ball joints of (seized on) - I remove the 19mm nut but cannot get the top ball joint to budge from the strut that its bolted to - i've tried hammering it ('carefully') but it wont move. I cant really get a spanner to the inner side (17mm ) due to the shape of the suspension its bolted to . Is there a tool I can use to get this released, or should I buy a gas heat gun (I've got an electric heat gun)? or do I need to just hit it harder with a lump hammer....? The bottom ones come out easily once I undid the nuts - just a small tap and they released. Many thanks, Paul

Hi all Just an update: I'm going to buy a genuine Durametric cable, it costs GBP £367 so its a massive investment for me personally. I'm going to order this Friday as its pay day. I just want to be sure that there's no other way of bleeding the secondary circuit on a Traction Control 996? for example, letting out air on the pump unit? just an idea, but maybe a stupid idea - if there's a way of Not paying £367 then I'm keen to know it (a Porsche independent will charge £150 for a 1 hour visit - but i'm planning on keeping the car a long time). If not, I'll buy a Durametric and film the bleed process for YouTube etc :) Many thanks, Paul

Hey Ok will do, thank you for all the advice everyone. I just looked at my cable and its marketed as a PIWIS, when you load the software its Durametric 6. Does mention the ABS etc but only seems to have the option to read/delete codes and give live data, so I I think its the cheap poor version, so no use to me. I'll have to wait until mid march and book it in then. Least its only 4 weeks to wait! Many thanks, Paul

~Hi all , just an update: Seems that its the Secondary brake system that I have problems with - an air in the system - ABS side. I spoke to Porsche and a local independant garage for some advice. Both say that they Don't use the PST2 system, both just use the 2 man normal brake bleed method by doing the normal primary circuit then different technique on the secondary side **What Porsche themselves suggested to me was to remove the front left headlamp to access a metal block that the hardbrake lines connect to (I cant remember what he said the name was called). He said to loosen the 11mm nuts on the ends of these brake bipes (brake unions) a little until fluid slightly comes out - this should help any trapped air escape. Then to use the 2 man technique to bleed both nipples on each caliper again. He says that this technique works well at Porsche for getting rid of trapped air after a major component on the braking system has been replaced. He does this with the engine off. I just wanted to mention this on here incase anyone has done this or can offer any extra knowledge or advice. The Independent can come to me with a PST2 tester for £150GBP but again, he said that they have never used it on brake bleeding in the past. Cheers, Paul

Hello Wizard Good morning, thanks for replying - I really need peoples help and advice. Im at work now so I cant check the software, but I think it said Durametric 6 on the Icon on my laptop. Its old software for sure though. The internet says I need to use Porsche System Tester 2 --- but do you know if I can download newer software for my Durametric cable? if I can get that and do the job, it would mean that I can get the car on the road this week rather than maybe 2 months time (the 996 is my toy and I'm simply out of money to spend on it - hence I do every job myself). Any advice on the software Is welcome. I just spoke to a garage and he thinks that I should perservere and try and bleed the brakes more using 2 people, 1 pressing pedal and 1 opening valves, he Thinks I could get away Without using the software.... Many thanks, Paul

My car just has Traction Control and ABS, no PSM function. I have a Durametric lead, but it dosent have an option to help bleed brakes...

Hi all Well, Ive had some good trouble free motoring over the last 4-5 months, and now come across my next problem. So my 1999 3.4 996 failed its British MOT/Road test, it had corrosion on two of the hard brake lines. So I spent Saturday removing and fitting 3 new brass brake lines from the unit thats mounted behind the left side headlight, under the left front arch liner and through to the rear left wheel - 3 lines in total. I also fitted 4 new flexible brake lines, 1 on each corner. I used my power bleeder set at 20psi and finished it of with my Wife pressing the brake pedal whilst i did the standard final checks at each caliper - the brake pedal was nice and firm. Went to test ride the car tonight and the pedal was firm, but as soon as i started the car, the pedal went to the floor. I rebled the system again, no leaks and the pedals firm with the casr Off, but soon as its started the pedal is very soft. Pump it a few times and its hard, but leave it 10 seconds and its to the floor again. ** I've read on here that cars with Traction Control ore PSM need to be hooked upto a Porsche System Tester 2 in order to open valves for the bleed to also bleed the ABS? Is this all true , is there away around this/spending cash at Porsche/Indy, can I do anything about this myself or do I simply have to take the car into Porsche? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated as I simply have exhausted my entire car budget for the next few months. ****.. Cheers, Paul Bournemouth-UK.

Photo:

I have photos of this fix

Hi all I started another post similar where I thought the Horn was the culprit of my battery drain, but it was actually the Alternator causing me a drain, so thought I would summarise the issue on a new post so that this might help other 996 owners and save them a lot of money and time! This is the original post and is detailed, so take a look at this afterwards: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/48867-2000-porsche-996-battery-drains-the-alarm-horn-is-a-constant-3v-and-hums/page-3 ​ Issue/Fault: So my 2000 Carrera Cabriolet was draining the battery in around 6 days, I was showing around 390ma of draw with the car locked and powered down, it should be upto 50ma, so I'm draining a Lot more! The drain was coming from the Alternators thin Blue wire, the one that goes to the regulator on the back of it. The wire was showing 3.7v Constantly with the Iginition off/car locked and 10.8v with the Key On/car started. I spent money on x2 Diagnostics, new ignition, I also removed all fuses, relays, Speedo Cluster, Blubs, ABS unit, PSM/ASR etc (All are linked to this Blue wire), but nothing helped, the fault seems to be in the middle of the Loom somewhere. FIX: I could not trace the fault to this 3.7v and I'm fed up of charging the battery and working on the car--- so I removed the rear passenger door panel, carpet and plastic cill tunnel to gain access to Connector "x2/3 black", the blue wire runs through this on Pin5. I unplugged this connector, I then Cut the blue wire as it went into the x2/3, I lenghtned these wires by 12". I then removed some of the sheathing on Pin 4 which is Black/Brown, I then soldered 12" of thin wire onto this, insulated all of these wires of course as cabled tied then neatly back up. I then installed a relay onto these 3 wires, and added a 4th Earth wire which I secured behind the door panel to bare metal. I also added a 5Amp fuse onto the relays power wire (the wire coming of the Black/Brown) . I then mounted this relay behind the door panel, well below the speaker (so the speakers magnet does not interfere with the relay). I can then remove the speaker and access the relay Easily, should I need to in the future. So Finally after months of research on the net, money spent and loads of evenings in the car, Its now Fixed! I did have 390ma Drain, now its 30ma which is very low and awesome!! I don't think I will need to charge the car again as It should last ages and ages unused in the garage and start easily! I would have loved to have found the actual Real fault but without stripping the dash off and hunting for these wires in this area, then I've done everything possible that I can access. I'm just pleased to not need to charge the car and now I can actually Chill and just enjoy owning, driving and polishing my 996! Hope this info helps.