Poze123

Hey Loren So I re ran the test this morning with the Durametric. This would be the 8 start/stop since I reset/cleared the codes a few days ago. I know the misfire codes will come back though. I filled with petrol last night and today I have these codes: P1340 Camshaft position with respect to crankshaft bank 1 exceeds P1531 Camshaft adjustment bank 1 So to describe my engine again. The engine runs extremely well once driving, pulls lovely and sounds great. The only noticeable problem is on start up, I get a very light "Chatter" noise from the engine And occasionally (maybe every 2 of 3 start ups) a quick light Tapping noise - the tapping seems to go away after a few mins of driving. But the chatter is noticeable when i'm on tickover for the duration of the drive. Many thanks,

okay will do - I'll be able to do this on Thur night I reckon. Do you think its worth buying that set of new Beru coil packs? or to early to say this? Thank you

Ps - 1999 Porsche 996, 3.4 Cabriolet. Owned for 3 years, well serviced on oil/fluids/brakes etc. Coil/Plugs never replaced by me, although I remember the Coil Packs were dated 2013. Car has done 97,000 miles. Slight leak from the RMS. Otherwise it drives lovely, Idle is a little tiny bit lumpy and there is a rattle on start up - I believe this is a worn chain guide, this soons stops after a few mins. Sounds like a well worn out car now I write this..... but I love it.

Hi all Been reading on here for an hour, but I would still appreciate any comments or further advice on my cars issues: I get 11 faults plus of course a warning light on the dash. The previous owner removed the bulb and as it was my first 996, I wasn't aware to check the bulb came on when the key was originally inserted. So I have these codes from my Durametric: P0300-MISFIRE DAMAGING CAT P0306-CYLINDER 6 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P0304-CYLINDER 4 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P0305-CYLINDER 5 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P1319-MISFIRE EMISSIONS RELATED P1316-CYL 1 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1318--CYL 6 MISFIRE EMISISIONS REL P1317-CYL 5 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1315 - Cyl 3 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1313 - CYL 1 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1340-CAMSHAFT POSITION WITH RESPECT TO CRANKSHAFT BANK 1 EXCEEDS LIMIT VALUE P1531 Camshaft adjustement bank 1 Any advice welcome - I have seen a cheap set of Beru Coil packs I could purchase (always on a budget for cars as these are a hobby and come second to the family (kids) requirements). So anything I can do free or clean would be great. Id rather not buy Coil Packs, but if these could help and reduce my worries, i'll go for them! (plus the spark plugs). Much appreciated, Paul UK- Dorset

Hey Thanks DBJoe. Is this the part you mention? :: http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod12461/Impluse---Speed-Sensor-Porsche-986---996-98660611202/ And is this "easy" to fit, or is it a major pain to install... (I'll do some research now ) If you think this is a possibility, i'll spend the £64 and grab one :) I have also ordered MAF cleaner and also Carb Cleaner to do the TB. I'll clean these two items once the gear arrives this week. Thank you

hi all Good evening! So I have used the car this weekend and got these lovely codes: P0300-MISFIRE DAMAGING CAT P0301-CYLINDER 1 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P0306-CYLINDER 6 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P3004-CYLINDER 4 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P0305-CYLINDER 5 MISFIRE DAMAGING TO CAT CONV P1319-MISFIRE EMISSIONS RELATED P1316-CYL 1 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1318--CYL 6 MISFIRE EMISISIONS REL P1317-CYL 5 MISFIRE EMISSIONS REL P1531-1340-CAMSHAFT POSITION WITH RESPECT TO CRANKSHAFT BANK 1 EXCEEDS LIMIT VALUE So just a few codes! The car runs well, there is a light knocking noise around the cam chain area, sounds like the right side of the engine. Only noticeable on tick over/idle. When I initially start the car, it revs to maybe 1500 rpm, then down to 800-1000 up and down a little, then idles perfectly around 800rpm after maybe 10 seconds of fluctuating. The engine management light then flashes and stays on. I only use the car at weekends So what's best to start on? Many thanks

Hey thanks guys for the replies, much appreciated. ok, I'll drive the car this weekend and see which codes come back - I cleared the codes on Sunday night. You mention cleaning the MAF unit , on the side of the airbox, I had a look online and it recommends cleaning it with proper MAF cleaner fluid, so I'll remove to inspect them if dirty I'll get the cleaner. Im not sure what the TB is and the fuel vent part? If you see this post , let me know... :) I'll order 6 plugs and I'll see what the cost of a MAF is. I won't do the coils as I see there £170 for a set and I can't afford that at the moment. I'll remove the MAF first though to inspect it. but I'd do anything that's a lower cost or that I can do myself as I'm pretty handy in the garage on the mechanical/cleaning side! many thanks!

Hi all The engine light comes on my 996 every so often, then goes off a few weeks later. I wasn't to concerned as the car drives well. So I got round to plugging it into the Durametric to look at the fault codes.... I've got loads of codes, P1340, P1531, P0300, P0306, P0304, P0305, P1585, P1319, P1318, P 1316, P1317, P0301, P0303! The car drives very nicely, loads of power and seems perfect when accelerating and driving. Feels perfect on the open road. The issue I have is a "tapping" noise on the engine on idle and a slightly eratic idle - its not much, but its not perfect. It sounds a bit like my 1955 VW Beetle. I was running 5W oil, but also changed it to 10w a month ago, but the tapping noise is exactly the same. Car has done 96,000m. So I'm keen to look at the codes and fix as many things as possible! So today I removed the spark plug/Coil pack covers on both sides to remove a spark plug from each side, the idea was that I could inspect them and the coil packs to see if there old or visually worn out. The plugs were NGK FGR6KQE 4 tipped plugs, with BERU coil packs all round. The plugs both looked great, normal grey/brown looking colours. The coil packs were dated Jan 2013 and visually looked clean and tidy. **I've owned the car about 18 months**. I was hoping the plugs may look old and I could just replace those to see if it improves, a fair £40 and Id get to spend some time hopefully improving the 996. I noticed that one of the middle "tubes" where the spark plug goes into was a bit wet with oil - the other two were dry. I see that its possible to buy new tubes for about £8 with the o-ring seals. The 3 tubes on the other side all looked dry, so just one that's seeping it seems. I'll work my way through the list of codes, but if anyone has any advice on these codes id love to hear from you! I see one of them was for a fuel vent, so I'm hoping a couple of codes could be cheap fixes. Many thanks, Paul Dorset.

Hi all Did a search but couldnt locate the answer. I need to get a new used brake caliper for the Rear right side of my 1999 C2 996. There's a couple on ebay listed for a 996. But would a Boxster rear caliper from the same era also fit? Visually they look the same and basically there's more choice on ebay for Boxsters being broken. If no ones sure, I'll remove my wheel and try and get the part number (just thought id save a extra job by asking on here :) ). Many thanks, Paul

Hello Jeff Good evening! Ive checked the motor unit, it is under the bonnet, to the left by the left headlamp (rigfht hand drive car ). Just removed the cover, it all looks mint and I checked the plug/wiring and all looks ok. Ran trhe software on the Durametric and i couldnt feel the pump at all, so itrs either very very quiet or just isnt affected by the Durametric. Trhe Durametric does states "Command sent" and something like" Command ok" or something to that effect. I rebled the brakes, got a bit more air out using the pressure bleeder at 20psi, then rebled again, using the Durametric and with the key on of course (just incase it was working). Pedal still felt similiar, maybe a bit better. Test drove for about 20mins, I managed to get the at least one wheel on the front to lock up on about 5-8 occasions, the discs were pretty hot by the end of 10-15 mins drive and burning rubber each time i locked a front wheel (felt like 1 wheel was locking). Took the car home and just bled the outer nipples again using the pressure bleeder and my foot, got some air out for sure. Had another test drive, feels a bit better, but the pedal still goes pretty low. the Brakes do work well, just the pedal is very excessive still. Rebled again and did a final test drive for the night. Question - when i locked up the front wheels, should i see the light come on? or how do i know if the ABS is working? i was doing generally 30mph then hard on the brakes with a small lock/skid just before it stopped, so not a long skid. I dont know if any of this info above adds any value? I spoke to Porsche today and they also suggested driving around to activate the ABS. They also suggested that sometimes the pedal travels to far anda rubber boot or seal on the master cylinder can tear- I dont know if this is viewable if i remove the plastic cover over the master cylinder? (Ive not taken that cover of before). I cant do any work on the car tomo except remove this plastic cover if needed, the wifes annoyed a bit so I've got a car free night! but Thursday night i can take a look. On a final note, i've booked the car into my local garage on Friday morning to do the Drop Links , he's also going to have a look at the brakes and probably use his professional type bleeder tool on it. Cheers, Paul

Thanks Jeff for the reply, much appreciated. Is this particular pump underneath the brake reservoir/master cylinder? I thought I read that there were two pumps in the same area, mines a Right hand drive car. Also - I just went outside , despite it being 1145pm, to check the v5 software --- basically the software loads but still states "Cable not connected", I don't know if you have any ideas? if not , i'll check the internet tomo and then email Durametric if I cant locate anything. I wasn't sure if the v5 SW may be better as this is an older car. just an idea anyway, so I can cover all basis. I'll check that pump tomo eve once I locate its location. Least I should be able to feel it vibrate. Thank you, Paul

I have also just spent an hour downloading V5 and all the drivers, a fresh download with all the Microsoft net, all as per the instructions. I was just expecting to press that Start button on the Booster Pump function, it would then whirr and pump and i'd just do each wheel, clean up and put the wheels back on. I don't know if the pump is just ultra silent, but now I search on the net, lots of people also mention that nothing seems to happen..... :)

On the intial setup screen (this is all on V6 of the software), I have lots of options but I'm choosing these: *Porsche 996 *Engine - ME5.2.2 for 1998-1999 *Transmission (I'm choosing nothing as this only shows 2 types of Tiptromnic- mines manual) *DSC/ABS - ABS/DSC/PSM 5.3 for C2 through 2001 *Instrument cluster - K03 fir 1998-2001 *Roof Type - Cabrio

Hello Jeff I want to post photos, but I don't think I have the access on my Rentech account. So I shall describe: I haven't got the exact page you have, mines a 996 with Traction Control only, no PSM. When I select my "ABS 5,3" folder on the software, I then get these options under Activations: 1) Return Pump (Start / Stop) 2)Switch Over Valve 1 (start/stop) 3) Switch over valve 2 (etc) 4) Booster Pump - * this specifically mentions Traction Control- it states "Applies only to models with traction control, Important: Open the bleed screw before starting. Cycle brake pedal while bleeding. It is normal to hear the pump on same wheels and not others"* 5) Booster-pressure valve 1 6) Booster-pressure valve 2 7) ABS Warning light 8) Information Light