Orient Express

Yes, one coat is fine, but a multiple coats will last longer, especially in harsh driving environments like winter driving. There are many that put on multiple coats especially on the windshield with good results. Let the surface cure at least 8 hours between multiple coats.

Clean off your existing wax to get the longest life out of your Rejex application. You can use a wax remover sold as one for cars, or just use a liquid dishwashing soap of your choice. You might also want to consider claying the paint surface, and polishing it with swirl remover prior to applying Rejex. Make sure that when you apply the Rejex, that you do it in the shade and that the surface and air temp is below 85 degrees F. Don't forget to apply it to the glass and wheels. Lastly, do it in the afternoon, so you can let the car set in the shade for 12 hours (overnight). Do this and you will be very satisfied with the result.

Do you know the Porsche P/Ns for the ROW 030 kit? I would imagine that they are different for the 1999 through 2004 model years.

Jan: So wire colors can be different from year to year, but the pin-outs on the relay are the same. You still want to install a line into position 7 of the relay socket for the on signal from the dash switch, and a line into position 4 for the dash switch indicator light. Also, see that pick grey wire on the relay socket? That is the one you want to clip so that the 30-45 mph "quiet mode" is disabled. sounds like you are getting close to completion. :clapping:

yes it did.

It does look very, very nice. But wow, at $2700 for a bumper cover, you better hope you don't "bump" anything with it or drive where there are rocks, dirt, sand, or aerosols might strike the bumper surface either! It would be a shame if it got chipped.

Is the rear bumper cover for the C4 the same as the C2? But it the C4S that has a different bumper cover design, right?

Both trunk and engine compartment lights come on when either is opened. Is the from bulb burned out?

It takes about 5 minutes to take off the bumper cover. There are 3 screws on each side, a few on the top that you see when you open the engine cover, and 3-4 on the back bottom. I put a old blanket on the floor under the bumper when I take it off, because it can fall off when the last screw comes out. As far as the tips touching the bumper cover, you should be able to adjust that if the pipe that the tips are on is held on with the circle clamp like on the OEM mufflers. It is not good to have the tips rubbing on the urethane bumper cover. Not that it will melt (but it might heat deform the cover) and it but it will rub the paint off.

Yes, No problem at all. when I put on my PSE, I took the bumper cover off, but it is not necessary to do this.

The jack points for a 997 are just like the 996. To put the car up on 4 jack stands: 1. lift the car on one side front the back jack point until the front of the car is high enough to put the 1st jack stand under the front jack point. 2. Do the same for the other side. Now the front of the car is up on the stands. 3. Position your lifting jack on the centerline of the engine to the rear of the oil sump cover (Not touching the sump cover). Lift up the rear of the car high enough to place the 2 remaining jack stands under the rear jack points. Lowering the car is the reverse of the above. And No, you will not damage the engine or car by lifting it this way. Just make sure you don't lift on the Oil Sump cover.

I've come up with a wiring mod to disable the "auto-quiet" mode of the 997 PSE, and to add a driver controlled "Loud/Quiet" mode activated from a dash mounted switch. I have a 996, but not a 997, so I am looking for someone that lives in the San Francisco South Bay area that might be interested in participating in a proof-of-concept trial. I would like to install the mod in your car, with the Porsche OEM muffler control switch (which I will give you the P/N for you to order for your car), and the associated wiring and verify the design. In return you can be the first one on your block to have the mod. The goal of the POC is that the car's default will be loud, and will no longer automatically decide when to go into quiet mode. Only the driver can initiate the quiet mode. When we have verified that the design is correct, I will publish the mod for all to use. I know that my wiring for the quiet loud portion is correct, what I need still to do is to optimize the cabin lighting wiring, and find the correct placement for the switch. I am looking primarily for cars with the Chrono Package. Let me know if you are interested.

Yes, that is the primary purpose of the current factory 997 PSE configuration. There is no manual "quiet" switch like on the 996. It is in "quiet" mode between 30 & 45 mph. The 997 PSE muffler vacuum flapper valves get controlled from the DME instead of an analog speed signal like on the 996. But despite being controlled by the DME, the actual vacuum switch that controls the flapper valves is still an analog one, so to keep the mufflers in "loud" mode all of the time, one simply disconnects the electrical connector to the vacuum switch. There is no feedback to the DME, so it does not know that the switch is not connected, so it will not register a fault. Disconnect this brown connector: This picture is from a 996, but it is exactly the same on the 997.

These are pictures of the concept CGT. LCD display did not make it to production.

It looks like this car was optioned with PSE, and that it was an early car. In 2002 when the 996 PSE was first available as a factory option, it was configured like the 986 sport exhaust in that the speed dependent "quite mode" was installed, but not a manual switch. It was not until late 2002/early 2003 that the manual switch was added.

here are some answers: The relay looks like this: The part number is 996 618 980 03, and it is usually on the top row on the relay support bracket. For the wiring connections, most are obvious, but the mystery one that you note BS 5/2 are jumper plugs that are in the relay support bracket that is also where the relay is. These jumper plugs are just plugs that are a common point for things to be wired to. Examples of things that are in routed to jumper plugs are: Grounds Dash switch illumination Speedometer signals. So anyway, BS 5/2 is the common point for dash switch illumination and it is located in either slot 28 or more likely on your car slot 25 on the relay support bracket. Just look for the jumper plug that has several GY/BU/BR (or BN) wires coming out of it. Slot 25 and 28 are along the bottom row of the relay support bracket. This is also where slot 23 is for you to clip the GR/PK speedometer A signal wire. Make sure you get the one that goes up to the PSE relay, and not one that is for something else. Fuse B10 is on the fuse block, and is already connected to the relay, but you will need to run another line from fuse B10 to terminal A4 of the switch to run the illumination. (one trick to save some wire is to simply take the switch illumination leads and jumper them the an adjacent switch. Just look for GR/BL/BR and RE/BU wires on the other switch.) The only other 2 wires you need go from pin A5 of the switch to slot 4 of the relay socket, and from pin A1 of the switch to slot 7 of the relay socket. For these 2 you need to get the pigtail with the connector pin on it from your Porsche parts counter. Does this make sense? One last thing, the relay support bracket is held in by one nut, and a plastic support on the driver's side lower A pillar. After you remove the nut, the relay support bracket will pull out, and has enough slack on it the you can turn it over to get to all of the wiring connectors, to add these connections.

All you will need to do is to add the switch and the wiring to the relay (which is already there) and power. As the wiring diagram shows, it is real easy, just wire the switch to the relay as shown and add the wires for the lighting and you are done. The only thing else you might want to do when you are wiring into the relay socket (the pigtails with the correct pins attached are available from your porsche parts dept.) is to clip the Grey/Pink wire (speedometer A signal). This wire is what provides the mph signal to tell the relay to cut into the "quiet mode" between 30-45 mph. (unless you like the sound of the car going limp at those speeds :P ) You have everything you need to add the switch except the switch itself, about 3 feet of 18 or smaller gauge wire, about 6 bayonet blade connectors for the switch, and 2 relay push-in connector pigtails. You will need to loosen the relay support bracket to get at the rear of it to add the wires in the relay connector socket, and pop off the center console bezel to add the switch. This one is that you need to think logically at the solution and understand the wiring diagram above. You should be able to get the switch for about $25, and the rest is under $5. If you are good, you can do this one in under an hour, but 2 and a half would not be bad.

Here are some of mine from the ALMS Race. Enjoy

The black splotches you see may also be Cosmoline that has gotten dried out and hard. If the other suggestions fail, then try some 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover, or go down to Home Depot, and buy a can of Mineral Spirits, and try that on the splotches. Usually dried on Cosmoline needs to be soaked to get it soft for removal.

The new style Porsche short shifter (p/n 997-424-983-00) is exactly the same shift lever as the B&M shifter, except is is black and includes the shift mount. The reason that the shifter feels different in the 997 and has a shorter throw is because the shift cables and the transmission on the 997 are different. The transmission is a japanese Aisian 6sp in the 997 vs. a Gertag G50 in the 996. The shift cables on the 997 connect on the left side, and the are part of the shorter throw experienced in the 997. While putting this part in a 986 will work just fine, you won't get the feel of the 997 out of it.

I prefer the Tornado myself, :D same principal, an air cleaner enclosure that does not have a muffler on it. These things are as old as the hills, and besides making the car have louder induction noise are useless except for making your wallet lighter. I really don't mean to rain on your parade, but the stock airbox will make the same sound if the Hemholtz resonator is plugged. One last thingto be aware of is if you changed to an oil impregnated air filter with your new toy, you will run the risk of damaging the MAF. But with that said, it's your car, so enjoy!

Congratulations on your install! :clapping: See, it was not that hard was it? And with the money you saved putting it in yourself, you can go treat you and your significant other to a nice dinner! I would be happy to lead an instal party if someone in the Bay area wants to put one in their car.

Since the B&M and the Porsche shifter piece are the exact same unit, take your pick. The B&M unit reuses the shifter housing, while the Porsche unit gives you a shifter pre-installed in a new shifter housing. Both units take under an hour to install. Both are DIY exercises that are on a 3 level of difficulty. IMHO the price delta between the B&M and the Porsche piece is not worth buying the Porsche piece, especially since the shifter housing can be had at the parts counter for under $35 (COGS to Porsche on this piece is $4). What you are paying for in the Porsche piece is the overhead involved in repackaging the B&M shifter as a Porsche product. Warranty concerns are only for those who also believe that they can get pregnant by sitting on a public toilet seat. Take the B&M shifter and use the money you save on something else you want.

Mike: I did the same thing last year, and changed out the stock bulbs with some Phillips "weather vision" bulbs that are designed for fog (they have a slight yellow tint to them) I also noticed that they do not seem very bright. The replacement bulbs are 55W, same as the stock bulbs. I am perplexed why they seem so dim as well.

I would suggest that you go the other way, and first tighten the mufflers to their attachment points, then cinch down the pipe clamp to the Cats, and then lastly adjust the exit pipes with the V-band clamp. There is quite a bit of play in the up/down, left/right adjustment of the tail pipes with this clamp. You should be able to line it up just fine. Lastly, the exhaust pipe tips should just barely protrude from under the lower bumper cover. Loosen the bolt that holds them in place and push them back and forth to get that alignment correct. you can squirt a little D-40 between the pipe and the tip to help make it easier. with use that oil will evaporate over time.