Orient Express

This sounds like the story: "Doctor, it hurts when I poke myself here. What should I do?" Doctor says, "Easy, don't poke yourself there." In your case, if your car's very-high-speed handling scares you, then don't go that fast. My C2 actually gets very heavy at 130+, and feels very comfortable (and noisy) going at those speeds. But not on public roads here in the US. (I take that back, there are 3 roads in 3 western states that I find very enjoyable). In Germany is OK as well.

This type of filter connection is essentially the same as used by VW. You really have to squeeze down on the disconnect ring to get it to open and disengage the filter. Use some vice grips to get a good grip on it. When it is open, the filter will slide off real easy. PS. Make sure you have something to catch the gas that will come out. There can be as much as a half a pickle jar!

Do a Google on inline FM transmitters. Just about any stereo installer has them as well as Crutchfield, etc. They are about $35, but you will may need to get the antenna adapter cables for the newer Porsche radios.

Why would you want an on/off switch? The FM modulator has an auto on/off function that switches it on when it detects an audio signal from its source (the ipod). That also disconnects the outside antenna signal. When the ipod is turned to pause or disconnected, the modulator powers down, and re-engages the outside antenna. A suggestion would be to use unswitched power, and let the modulator turn itself on and off.

The Monster product is not an MOST interface device. It is just another analog CD changer emulator like the one available from Denison. So still the best solution for MOST radios is to use an IN-LINE FM modulator. Not to be confused with the over the air FM transmitters.

Try this post for antenna adapters And this one

do a search on antenna connector adapters. The connector adapters you need are the same as the Cayenne. The in-line modulator is the best solution that you have available to you right now.

I did the wiring on the relay support bracket first and then back to the engine bay. The 2 little wires that go back to the engine compartment are really thin, and easily concealed. I would suggest that you get a piece of flexible wire sleeve to put the wires in where they go through the engine compartment. As far as the question of to install the silencing wiring or not, it is totally a personal choice. I did install it, and am very glad I did. In stop and go traffic, the low speed exhaust note with PSE in the loud mode is somewhat annoying, and it is very nice to be able to turn it off. I have to say that 90% of the time I have the exhaust in the loud mode, but that other 10% is well worth the effort. If you do install the electrical wiring, be sure not to install the Pink/Grey wire as called for in the instructions. This is the speed sensor line that will activate the "auto-quiet" mode at 29-40 mph.

I have obtained a set of PSE mufflers and would like to know if i need anything special to install them ? no just regular hand tools Do i need any gaskets or new clamps or are the old ones usually OK ? no, you can use the existing clamps that hold the old muffler pipe to the cats. Just clean it up. When the vacuum lines are routed thru the heat shield are grommets needed ? no, just poke a hole in the muffler heat shield that is in line with the hole in the body that leads to the engine compartment I can trace the wire route all the way until the panel behind the seat backs thru the the engine bay. There is a huge rubber gromet on the back right corner of the engine bay. Is this the one that need to be cut the go the wires thru? The pass-through grommet plug is in the right front (of the engine) top of the engine compartment. That is the one that you cut an "X" in to pass the vacuum valve signal wires through. You can get at it from the top by putting the top in the service position, lifting the rear part of the soft top out of the way (do this by popping off the 2 wire ropes that are connected to the body), and pulling the felt carpet up. You can run the wire down between the rollover hoop mechanism, down to the rear quarter panel cover and then under the carpet up to the relay support bracket in the drivers footwell. There is always someone that does not want to install the PSE electronics out there that will part with the relay, wires, etc. The pieces are actually very straight forward, you could just as soon make up a wiring harness, and get the relay, vacuum switch, and dash switch from the parts counter. Here is my experience with installing a PSE Good luck with it.

It is a piece of cake to install a PSE on a 997. It is even easier than a 996. Buy me a couple of beers and I will come over and guide you through the install.

So, what are you saying? You would NOT take the remanufactured engine if the only problem with the 36K mile one is RMS? there goes Jeff again, getting people edgy, We don't call Jeff a tool without good reason! :clapping: Get a new motor, you will not regret it. Only suggestion is to wait until you have 40K on the chassis, so all of the maintenance requirements will still line up. i.e you will do a break-in oil change at 45K miles, and then you are back on the regular maintenance schedule, except you do the 60K at 100K.

What? Didn't you polish your mufflers before you installed them? :eek: Glad to hear that everything is working now. Go drive the heck out of the car for a while, and the smoke will be gone!

Take the new engine, but beware, it is a green engine, and despite advice to the contrary, should be broken in for the first 1-2K miles. I had the recurring RMS issue, and had a remanufactured engine installed. The advice from Porsche was drive it like I normally do, which I did, and 500 miles later, it threw a rod and cracked the case. So on the next engine, I drove it by the new car regime, keeping the revs under 4000 for the first 2000 miles. This engine has been superb! Don't know if the first engine self-destructing was coincidence or what, but that is what happened to me. Here is what the new (remanufactured) engines look like. Nice thing is that they get all of the updates from the 2005 996 run.

The B10 bus is connected to the first 6 fuses from the end, so you can plug into any of those that has an open hole. I would suspect that the US and Swedish cars have different things taking power from B10. Just pick any of the first 6 holes that is open. The little connector on the end of the red/blue wire should just be the metal pin, no plastic shield around it. Of course you can also use an in-line crimp splice to connect the red/blue wire. Then you just pick any wire that is plugged into the B10 buss.

You are on the right track. you just have to stick the pin connector into the little hole that there With a little effort it will slide down into the fuze block.

Piece of Cake! The fuse box has a carpet cover on it that is held on with 4 screws. Take the black cover off to expose the fuses, and you will see the 4 screws. Take them off, and pull off the carpet cover. The fuse block is held in by 4 clips on each corner of the box (block). You can see 2 of the clips in this picture. Just pop the clips free and pull the fuse block free so you can get at its backside. Here is a picture of fuse box mount with the clips. I have already pulled off the fuse block. Crimp and or solder a female spade connector onto the red/blue wire that will be attached to the fuse block. Turn the fuse block over and insert it in an open spade where my finger is pointed. As you can see, I have already attached my red/blue wire there. (2nd row, outboard connector) That is it! Now put everything back and you are done. If you have not already installed the relay plug on the relay support bracket, it is easier to get at with the fuse block detached.

JimR answers your question. There are 2 connection methods using FM radio. One is the over-the-air transmitter which is hit or miss. This solution uses a very low power FM transmitter that relies on having a clean frequency for your radio to tune to with no adjacent FM stations. This is almost impossible to find in urban areas. The distance between the car's antenna and the FM transmitter is crucial, and as you travel from area to area, the radio/transmitter combination may have to be tuned to another frequency as to not to compete with over the air stations. I do not recommend this solution. The other is an in-line FM transmitter. This solution also transmits an FM signal, but it connects directly to the antenna input on your car's radio for a stronger and clearer signal. In addition when the in-line unit is on, it disconnects the car's external antenna from the radio, thus removing the interference problem from strong local FM stations. With the inline unit, the downside of an FM transmitter remains, which is the limited dynamic range and frequency response of the FM signal. But the issue of multi-path distortion and clear channel competition is eliminated.

If the 3 wire Red/Blue bundle has a real long wire in it (this is one of the wires that gets routed back to the engine compartment for the vacuum switch) then this bundle gets plugged into the relay socket at PIN 2. What about the other ends of the Red/blue bundle? Does one go to Pin 4 of the socket for the control switch? and the other is just an unconnected end? If that is the case, then the unconnected Red/Blue wire goes to fuse B10. Does that make sense? This is from the Technical instructions 6/02 2601

Is this a 996 or 997 PSE?

A 60K maintenance on a 996 has about $180 with of parts, and is essentially an oil and filter change with the addition of changing the plugs and serpentine belt. All of these items are DIY and will take at the most 2-3 hours at a leisurely pace. All of the DIY instructions are in the DIY section here. Save your money for something useful and DIY. This service is no different than the same service for a Toyota Corolla.

An in-line FM transmitter is the best solution currently available for MOST based cars, but the Harman Kardon Drive&Play system is not necessary to use it. All of the in-line FM transmitters have line-in inputs on them and an iPod, or Sat radio, MP3 player etc. can be played directly through them. An excellent quality in-line FM transmitter can be had for under $50.

If you look up the pipe you will see that it is held to the muffler by a ring clamp. Just unbolt the tip from there. It is a little bit more of a pain to get at that bolt, but it can be done.

That is not the packing that a PSE retrofit comes in from Germany. This is what the box should have looked like: The original packing is designed to take lots of abuse. With that said, a dent or 2 on the exterior shell will not affect the mufflers performance.

Sorry, SOL for now. FM transmitters or inline modulators are your choices.

does your car have power memory seats? That is what the extra connectors under the seat are for. I find it strange that they are actually there. The wiring harnesses for each car is supposed to be custom made for that car, its country, and options. I wonder if the car had power/heated seats at one time and they were swapped out for the current seats. What year is the car?