Orient Express

I took the power from the center top dome light because it was the simplest thing to do. The A pillar cover just pops off, and the windshield top header cover comes loose by removing the sun visor. The dome light is held in with 2 screws that are under the little alarm sensor covers.

You can get some soft plastic caps at Home depot in the hardware section that will stretch over the connection nipple. Stick a piece of tape on that to make sure they don't get kicked off. And make sure you put a notice on the steering wheel that says "DON'T PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL!"

You will need to trace the pink/grey wire from the PSE Relay What you have is a photo of Jumper Plug 1/1. First, find the rear of the connector that has your PSE relay. This is on the Relay Support Bracket (this is the bracket under the drivers footwell that has all of the relays in it). The RSB will have to be loosened to look at the rear of it. This relay could be in any position( it is usually in the top or middle row), but one way to find it is to look for the P/N of the relay which is 996.618.980.0X, where X is the revision number. Once you have found the relay connector, now look for the Pink/grey wire which will be on pin/slot 6 of the back of the connector. This is the one that you should disconnect. Disconnecting this wire will disable the 25-45 MPH quiet mode. You have a few options for disconnecting this wire. 1. Just cut the wire. 2. Using a pin extractor tool, remove it from slot 6 of the relay connector. 3. Follow to pink/grey wire to jumper plug 1/1 in slot 23 of the relay support bracket and remove the wire from that end. Jumper plug 1/1 in slot 23 is the distribution terminal for all of the electronics in the car that require a speedometer signal for one thing or another. Hope this helps.

I added footwell lighting to my 996 with 2 lamps from VW (the same ones that are used in the trunk and engine compartment) and a power line that runs up the A pillar across the windshield header to the center dome lights. I fabricated a little bracket for each lamp to stick them under the dashboard. Pieces cost about $10 and 2 hours of time.

My neighbor had a similar issue, it was both the fact that the rear brake pads were worn to the numbs, and hat the rear left half shaft hub bolt was loose.

I put one of these mirrors on the drivers side of the car in January, and find that after you get used to the way the image looks, it is quite useful. Is $140 for 2 mirrors? I don't really think that the passenger side mirror is necessary. I only paid $72 for this one at the local Porsche parts counter. The P/N for the Drivers side mirror is 996.731.035.02

If it is dripping on the floor, you have a pretty good one, and it is probably the IMS seal O-ring that is the culprit. If you still have warranty then get it done and over with. It won't hurt anything, except make a mess on the garage floor. It won't hurt the clutch, and unless the clutch has been abused it will be good for 200,000 km. Since this leak is such a well known issue with the 996, perhaps you can get some sort of relief from your dealer to repair the issue.

Removal of the stickers is much easier if you do it on a work bench. Denatured alcohol is not recommended because it can discolor and possibly damage the vinyl used for the sun visors. 91% Isopropyl alcohol (from your local drug store) is much friendlier to the vinyl. Here is the DIY from the RennTech DIY pages. The trick is to take the sticker off in one non-messy piece.

The oil is coming from the right place for either an RMS or an IMS leak.

click here are instructions for putting the car on jackstands

It really does not matter where the vacuum switch is mounted, though it looks like this sort of bracket is used somewhere else in the car. Must have been packed by mistake. The P/N of the correct bracket is 996.111.989.00 and is called a "Holder ->Electric change over valve.". You might see if whoever you bought the kit from will get you the correct bracket.

What is wrong with the one you have?

Thanks for the kind words. I'm German too, and it just makes sense to respect a German car with German cleanliness. I recently installed the M030 ROW sports suspension on my Porsche, and here is a picture of that install. Keep in mind this chassis has almost 50K miles on it.

The use of the engine case center point is a temporary lift point that is used by Porsche trained service technicians and with the jack placed correctly is perfectly safe. The use of the rear suspension cross-member can also be used, but requires the use of a jack with a long and low tongue. The possibility of inadvertent damage to the engine is much higher using the suspension cross member because of the requirement to reach under the engine to get to the lift point. The use of the rear suspension forward attachment points is high discouraged because of the high probability of bending the attachment bolt in the center of the casting. Using the engine case as a lifting point puts the lifting pressure to the body through the engine to the engine mounting points which are compressed upon lifting. This puts the same amount of force on the mounting points of the the car as if was resting on its wheels. As long as one does not lift on the engine sump cover, there is little chance of damage to any components, or the car slipping off of the jack plate. Remember this is a temporary lifting point that is only used until the rear jack stands are in place. It is misinformation to suggest that lifting from the engine is not safe or effective.

You don't have to remove the driver's seat unless you want to. If you do remove the seat, and unplug the seat electrical harness, then don't turn on the car until you have the seat plugged back in or you will trigger an airbag fault. When I installed my PSE, the only reason I removed the seat is that I wanted to clean under there, and it was easier to lay on the floorboard to get to the relay support bracket. The 2 little wires that go to the PSE vacuum switch in the engine compartment can be tucked under the rocker panel and B pillar panel without removing anything.

Sally Carerra - Every man's fantasy woman/car

Most in-line FM modulators turn themselves on and off automatically when they sense a line-in signal from the audio source that you are adding to your radio (the iPod). I would suggest that you simply use either the switched or unswitched 12v+ that is available at the pre-wired telephone cable that is in the center console under behind the "batwings". Does your in-line modulator have to be manually switched on and off? If so you should consider taking it back for one that turns itself on and off.

Just use a power washer, watch where you are aiming the nozzle, and put lots of towels around the edge of the front and top openings to catch the splatters. You will get the carpet a little wet, but it will dry off in the sun. The key is to aim carefully.

MOST bus was implemented by Porsche starting in MY 2003. The 2002 MY is the last of the traditional analog systems.

Looks like whoever packed the kit stuck too many pieces of hose in the box. Extra pieces can drive some folks crazy! Be sure to use the little clamps on both ends of the braided hose, but don't tighten them to much or they will strip and break. Heat shrink is fine as a dust cover substitute, but I feel it is too stiff as a wire conduit, that is why I use the plastic conduit.

Congratulations on your purchase. You will be very happy with it. So here is what you are missing: A "Y" vacuum line connector. You need 3. P/N 928.573.727.03 One at the existing vacuum tap on the left rear intake runner bellows. (one leg goes to the existing vacuum switch mounted on the left side of the engine, one leg supplies the PSE, and the 3rd leg gets connected to the black and white vacuum back-flow valve on the intake runner.) One at the Vacuum tank. (one leg is from the vacuum supply, one leg is to the vacuum switch, and the 3rd leg is plugged into the vacuum tank One on the output tap of the vacuum switch. (On leg to the vacuum switch, and the other 2 legs to the muffler valve actuators.) To properly prepare the electrical connector for the vacuum switch and the 2 wires that connect to it, get a length of small black plastic flexible wire conduit, and place the length that comes into the engine compartment. You can get this stuff at any auto parts store or Radio Shack. This will prevent the signal wires from inadvertently shorting out by coming in contact with a hot piece of the engine and melting their insulation. Lastly the electrical connector needs a rubber flexible dust cover on the wired end. I don't understand why Porsche did not include this part in the kit (they don't put it in the 997 kit either). The part number for this piece is 443.906.102.G This is a VW/Audi part so it might be cheaper to get it at a VW store or from the Audi parts counter vs the Porsche parts counter. Take a look at the other vacuum switch which is on the other side of the engine to see what I mean. (it is the one that you are tapping the vacuum from) The 2 blue plastic plugs are for the wires that go into the connector shell. They are for keeping moisture out of the connector. If they are not installed, you risk the connection failing due to corrosion. For those of you that did not install them, then squirt some RTV silicone in the little holes where they go to seal the connector up. Be sure to both solder and crimp the wires onto the electrical pins, and make sure you have the conduit, dust cover and 2 blue waterproofing plugs on the wires before you put the pins on and especially before you insert the pins in the connector shell. It does not matter which pin goes into which connector slot in the shell. Once the pins are in the shell, you need a special pin extractor to get them out. Parts to put away, or trash. The extra intake runner bellows. Since the PSE kit is designed for all markets world-wide, there are some cars in some parts of the world that may not have a vacuum tap. That is what this part is for. The extra vacuum back-flow preventer. That is the little black/white round plastic thing with nipples on both sides. This can be used for any application where you need to maintain a vacuum in a system when there is no active pump or vacuum source. it is in the kit for the same reason as the bellows. Good luck, and let me know if you have any questions. PS: While the muffler cans are on your workbench, this is a great time to take some metal polish and shine them up :king:

7 Hours!!!????? Try 3 hours , 4 if they are real slow, however in reality they will have the job done in 2. Keep in mind that any dealer service tech that is worth anything can do a complete RMS/IMS update in 4 hours. You are being quoted the rack rate list "we have a sucker here" price. This job with parts is not worth more than $800.

Maybe they were just being on the conservative side to get the tank out. Certainly nothing wrong with lowering the engine, it is just not necessary. Maybe the technician does not know that the tank can be removed with the engine in place. No sense in busting their chops on this one, especially if the tab went on warranty. I would suggest that when you critique the techs work, suggest to him that the tank can be removed with the engine in place by turning the tank sideways and wiggling it past the fuel rail. This would work much better than suggesting that they were being untruthful to you. :rolleyes: But now you know, so if you ever have to do it yourself, you can feel confident when you do it.

Don't get mad, these are your salad days, so you can just treat this as a learning experience. If you look at the Pelican parts pictures, the later tanks are not bigger in width, just a little longer than the earlier tanks. You have to remember that service centers are in business to make money, and a coolant tank R&R is an easy buck. If you cave-in, don't worry, learn from what you paid for and then you will know for the next time. Porsche did a very good job in designing the engine bay for easy servicing. A good tech can R&R a complete engine in 2 hours, so a little coolant tank can't be that hard. Enjoy your break.

Try it and see. Make sure that the tank is empty and just wiggle it out. You should remove the secondary air injection pump and the air intake snorkel first. Once that stuff is out of the way, you will see how much room you have. Worst thing that could happen is that you get hung up on the fuel supply rail for the injectors, if that happens it is easy to move that out of the way.