Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Orient Express

Moderators
  • Posts

    680
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by Orient Express

  1. What a life, for me yesterday, got my domain flagged as a Phising site because somehow someone stuck some phishing files on the server. Took me 3 hours to get it cleaned up.
  2. I assume you have the hand brake engaged? Top won't go up or down via the switch without the handbrake set.
  3. With complete respect, there is nothing harmful in changing coolant at such a short interval, but is a real waste of coolant. Even a 3 year interval is overkill, but then again, some still recommend changing your oil at 3000 miles too.
  4. I recommend flush at 10 yrs/100K miles. G12 Coolant is mandatory. In addition to the Porsche supplied coolant, I recommend the VW G12 coolant ($20/gal) or DexCool.
  5. Solid mounts will certainly not leak, but they will transmit much more NVH to the body of the car. They are great for racing, but there are mixed opinions for street use. NVH stands for Noise, Vibration, Harshness. It is not bad for the car, but it makes the driving experience less pleasurable for a daily driver car.
  6. 91 Premium is the only pump grade available here in California, but we do have pumps that sell 100 Octane race gas. So what I do is on every fill-up I mix 4 gallons of 91 with 1 gallon of 100 gas. This gives me a 93-95 octane gas. I also get about 19-24 mpg out of each tank.
  7. I have seen them come on all of the time. You have to see what the stored fault is to determine its significance.
  8. +1 on this. A low voltage battery, and/or replacing a battery can cause all sorts of wacky faults. Clear all the faults and see what returns. The first one is probably a O2 sensor on its way out, but with the engine cold, give each cat a wack with a rubber mallet or your hand, if there is any noise coming out of the cat, then the cats honeycomb is cracked and will need to be replaced. If it is a cat and you have less than 70K miles, you may be able to get Porsche to do a goodwill replacement. The warranty on the cat is 7 yrs/70k miles.
  9. You will need to remove the rear motor mount bolts on both sides to lower the engine enough to get the tank out.
  10. Agreed, use a claybar first, that should get the overspray off.
  11. Based on your questions, I would recommend that you have a professional mechanic R&R the coolant tank. There is a special hose clamp tool for removing the clamps, and in some cases, the engine needs to be lowered slightly for tank to clear the engine and body. You have a car with the shorter tank, but it is still very difficult to remove.
  12. If anyone is interested, I have a complete PSE electrical and vacuum wiring kit available. The only thing you will need to add is the dash switch (left or right side, your choice). This kit is worth over $350 is bought new.
  13. Any time now! It has been in the 70's here in the Bay area this week.
  14. Yes there are solid mounts available, but their use is primarily in racing. The solid mounts transmit a lot of NVH into the engine. Again this issue with mounts failing are for primarily higher mileage cars. The mounts will almost universally fail on cars with higher than 70K miles on them. The only control you have of this failure is wether you want it to happen in your garage where you will be aware of the failure, or out on the road where you might not notice it for many many months. By the way, I got a chuckle from this photo in this months Excellence magazine.
  15. Thank you very much. A very well presented counter-point.
  16. There are any number of low profile jacks available. I have used a Harbor Freight aluminum "Racing" jack for about 5 years, and have had excellent results with it. Sears offers a similar jack. Griots Garage also has an excellent low profile jack too. I'm sure that other board members have a favorite low-profile jack that they would recommend as well.
  17. As I have said over and over, lifting the rear of the car by the engine to place the rear jack stands is not the issue for motor mount failure. The issue is fluid filled motor mounts are guaranteed to fail if they have more than 60-80K miles on them. It is not a matter of if, but just when. It is much better to have them fail and get your attention so you can replace them, rather than them fail on the road somewhere, and you drive around for many miles before you discover that they have failed. There is absolutely nothing wrong to lift the rear of the car with a jack on the engine as long as: 1. You lift the car and get the rear jack stands under the rear lift points as soon as possible as to get the load off of the engine. i.e. if you can't do this operation in under 3 minutes, you probably should not be doing it in the first place, and 2. Pay attention to what you are doing so that the jack is on the proper and safe lifting point on the engine. UPDATE I am now recommending that if your 996/997/986/987 has more than 90K miles on it, that as part of the 90K oil change that the rear motor mounts be replaced as well. This is a very easy operation, and given the expected life of fluid filled motor mounts is a reasonable item to replace.
  18. I use the VW G12 coolant in my 996 and Audi and VW with no problems at all. The Texaco Dex-Cool is another alternative.
  19. Use one of the screws or bolts that holds the fuse block to the body. That will work fine.
  20. Is cleaning his 996 MkII today

    1. 996 Cabriolet

      996 Cabriolet

      Orient Express, I also have a 2002 996 Cab. Same color as your, both in & out. I beloong to the Monterey Bay PCA. Plan to also join Golden Gate for the club races.

  21. What would you suggest lubricating the front seal with? I just use silicon lubricant spray. I spray some on a rag, and then wipe down and clean the header gasket with it.
  22. Before you pry off the center console, look under the drivers footwell, and make sure all of the electrical relays are properly seated. I had the exact same problem a while back, and it turned out I had dislodged the intermittent wiper relay.
  23. Coolant for your Porsche is pretty cut and dried. Only use a G-12 type coolant. If you don't want to pay the Porsche parts counter price for a gallon, then go on down to your VW dealer's parts counter and get it there.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.