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I have found that the intermittent wiper replay can be easily kicked slightly out of its socket giving the indications you have described. Reseating the original relay can solve the problem. But it sounds like you have already been down the reseating the relay path.

If the 997's cigarette lighter socket is unswitched, then you should be good to go.

I got mine from my local dealer.

I use Durametric on my macbook Retina with Bootcamp and Windows 7. I only use the windows stuff for the vehicle diagnostic SW I have (Ross-Tech, Bentley, and Durametric), so booting into that partition is not that big a deal.

I have also heard that some leave the vibration dampers off the new pads without any noise issues. I chose to reuse the vibration pads on my 996. I use a metal putty knife to separate them from the brake pads during removal. The rear vibration pads are difficult to remove because there are two per pad, and damage easily when they are separated from the brake pads. New vibration dampers are pretty pricey.

What has completely solved this dilemma for me was to change to Hawk HPS Fero-carbon pads. No pad dust, no squeal, good pedal feel, and long lasting. One other trick to keep road dust, etc. from clinging to the wheel is to coat the inside and exterior of the wheel with Rejex, which is a polymer surface coating originally designed for aircraft. Google both of these products to find your nearest distributor.

Also, instead of cutting the diode in the relay, just pull (or don't install) the pink wire into the relay plug connector. Much simpler.

Sway bars and shocks should have green dots on them, springs, orange dots.

This assumes that the wiring is correct, and that you included the PSE wiring harness and the relay. In the installation instructions I posted is the wiring diagram. On thing you can do to make sure that the vacuum switch is good is to just hot-wire it with a 12v source. If it quiets up, then you know that the electrical wiring was not installed correctly. If it does not quiet up, then the vacuum circuit was not installed correctly.

The 2002 PSE is a straight analog system, that has a solenoid vacuum valve that closes the damper valve to quiet the system. The system is not controlled by the DME, so there is no coding required. Did your mechanic wire in the solenoid valve? Here are the installation instructions for the PSE. One note is that the instructions specify connection of a speed sensor wire to the PSE relay. This is for putting the exhaust system in quiet mode between 15 ~ 25 mph. I recommend not connecting that wire so that the default is that the system is in "loud" mode by default at all speeds. Sports Exhaust System 03.pdf

This foam is coming from the climate control outside air door that is located under the cabin filter in the cowl. Over time the foam deteriorates and gets sucked into the cabin by the HVAC fan and is blown into the cabin. Some cars have a white foam that turns yellow over time, and some cars have black foam. This happens to most cars that have this flapper door that is exposed to the elements.

Believe it or not, I use a Harbor Freight 20-200 Ft/LB click torque wrench, and have done so for a few years with no problems. I used to have a craftsman wrench, but the adjustment click stop ring broke. Just for kicks, I had the HF wrench tested for accuracy, and it was spot on. Plus their pricing was very reasonable. As you know most of their tools are Chinese made, but that does not mean it is junk. I find these days it is more reliable than my old standby Craftsman.

Very well done Garage, I find it interesting that your garage (minus all of the nice upgrades) looks exactly like the garage of the house we had when we lived in North Atlanta a few years ago, right down to the 3 windows on the right side, and the door to the house on the left!

Great Mod!

Congratulations to you and all of the team. RennTech has been and continues to be the reference standard for Porsche Enthusiast Boards! I look forward to the next 10 years and beyond!

The default mode is "loud", and unless the previous owner bypassed the vacuum solenoid and connected the vacuum lines directly to the vacuum port on the intake to keep it quiet all the time, there is a chance that the original sport mufflers were removed and replaced with the standard mufflers. If you can, look at the mufflers under the car, and see if there is a valve attached to one of the pipes that comes out of the muffler body down to the exhaust tips.

I prefer to use the engine as described in my DIY, because my jack does not have a long enough tongue to reach the crossmember, and by lifting from the engine, it is a perfect test of the condition of the rear motor mounts. In the unlikely situation that they rupture during the lift, that means that they were close to failing anyway. Better they fail when you can be aware of it, then fail silently on the road and you not knowing for months or years that they have failed. Plus it is a simple 3 bolt 15 minute replacement job.

My observations: A replacement remote and a OEM key blank are available online for between $25 ~ $75. Most locksmiths can cut the blank for about $10, but a Porsche dealer has to pair the key with the car's security system. Paring the key takes about 10 minutes, and many dealers will do it as a courtesy. Everything else on your list except the wheel alignment are DIY activities that can be done in your garage in an afternoon. The door latch replacement is probably the most challenging, but there are plenty of DIYs out there on how to do it. This is a good example of why it is important to build a relationship with your shop mechanic, especially if you aren't mechanically adept. You would be amazed at how a few bottles of wine will get you a major break on the cost of maintaing your car. And know what work you need to do on your car in advance, and know what the going price is for that work. Otherwise, when you walk into the shop, they will just look at you as an ATM with legs.

I have these sort of marks on my Graphite Grey cab top, and I found an interesting way to minimize them. First off, I do a deep clean of the top material about every 3 years using a soap solution of Woolite and Simple Green mixed with water 1:1:3. I scrub the top with a medium stiff bristle brush, and let the liquid stand on the top for at least 45 minutes, scrub again and then rinse throughly with cold water. This cleaner mix, will strip off the wax on the body, so I drape the car with plastic and tape it around with windows to keep the body wax removal at a minimum. Next, let the top dry for about 2 days in covered parking. After the top is completely dry, I give the canvas material 3 progressively heavier coats of RaggTopp fabric protectant. Be sure to mask off the bodywork and windows, as you don't want RaggTopp on the paint or glass. Let this stage dry completely, a day or two. So you are probably thinking, "that is what I do (more or less), and I still have the marks". Well now comes the secret sauce. I found quite by accident that one of my detailing sprays "Adams In&Out Spray", when lightly applied to the compression marks, completely hides these marks. It does not remove them, but the spray gives the marked area the same depth and sheen as the unmarked areas, and hides them quite nicely. When applying the spray, start light, and gradually build up the spray until you are satisfied that the mark is no longer prominent. If you overdo it, you can wipe off the excess quickly, and adjust accordingly. The spray takes a bit of time to fully dry and blend in, so take your time when applying it. Hope this helps

This is it. Negative rear camber certainly helps handling, but is murder on the insides of the rear tires. Resetting the camber to 0 will double the rear tire life at the slight expense of handling. The rear feels a bit looser with 0 camber on the track, but for DD use, it is negligible. Zero rear camber can be the difference between getting 15K miles from a rear set of tires and getting 24K miles.

The 1st thing you want to do is to make sure that the engine is properly supported before any bolts are removed. Then, yes the lower bolts are removed, and then the 2 small bolts holding the mount to the chassis are removed. The second part is done from inside the engine compartment.

I use the cigarette lighter and have a Save-A-Battery maintainer. I've had this maintainer for about 4 years, and it is fantastic. These guys are the OEM supplier for many of the "factory" chargers including some Porsche models. This maintainer is about $87 on Amazon.

My general rule for G12 coolant has been to change it out every 10yr/100K miles which ever comes first. PH testing is also important as it is a key indicator of the health of the coolant. VW G12 is my preferred fluid, as it is the same as Porsche coolant but at a much more reasonable price.

Fuel system pressure equalization valve. If you had opened the gas cap, it would have gone away immediately. Normal.

I reuse mine as they are pretty expensive new.