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nerdtalker
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When my coolant Ts blew up (the two to the back right of the engine against the firewall) yes there was coolant sprayed everywhere, and some made it into the V of the engine. There's also that bleeder hose which is prone to becoming brittle and cracking which would dump coolant there, although yours looks ok. -
Durametric Failed me!
nerdtalker replied to ManMN's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Older cayenne can do output test, I've definitely done a few things with my Durametric and 955TT: http://www.durametric.com/modelfeaturematrixv6.aspx#955 Newer (958) cayenne Durametric support is very lacking. I've been using Launch X431 Diagun IV for that which offers much better coverage on newer models. -
Go on alldatadiy.com and you can access all the wiring diagrams with a subscription to that vehicle. I have V8 or I'd PM you the ones I have.
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I have this one I yanked from my car, worked fine before. Looks like BE6636. I have 2004 CTT.
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Check the connection/plug/wire harness going into that headlight. Many times I've seen the level control not function because it came unplugged going over a bump or during a panic stop. The connection / mounting and retaining mechanism on those headlights is the achilles heel of the whole setup.
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Yeah I actually posted in that other thread as well. I'll probably end up ordering the parts from AWD.tech and rebuilding. Several fluid flushes haven't resolved my shudder and noises.
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Does anyone know if there’s a place in the US that rebuilds the 958TT transfer case? I’ve seen a few videos of people rebuilding them in Russia and found a place in the UK that will do it, but there must be someone in the US that rebuilds them too. Since it looks like mostly what happens is the chain stretches and the clutch pack wears out, I can’t imagine it being too hard.
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Yeah I tracked the squealing down to the starter, both my 986 and another 996 I own had squealing starters. That problem seems to follow me around for some reason. It seemed wrong to throw the old starter away so I think I still have it somewhere among all my parts. Just DM me if you want it. That table looks amazing BTW. I've been wanting to make a VR6 block into a table for a while, but some junker M96 engine might be cooler. The casters on the bottom seem like a super smart idea.
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I still have my old starter laying around somewhere, not sure if that'd be useful for you to scavenge parts from (I'm in San Jose). It turned over but squealed like a banshee when cold. The squealing was driving me nuts so I replaced it while I had the manifold off last month. I replaced it with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008TW8B34/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Yeah I ended up removing the manifold, that's the only way to do this job. Sadly it seems like all the big jobs involve removing the manifold and thus replacing all the gaskets. At least I'm getting better at it.
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It finally happened to me, I noticed the vacuum line at the back of my 04 CTT was completely loose and flopping around. Looked and found the T had separated at the top where it connects to the hard plastic line running to PCV. Has anyone successfully DIYed this job without removing the intake manifold? I chewed up my hands real bad trying to get the T apart. The rubber hoses are practically solid after so much heat cycling, there's no flexion left. I got a hose puller on them but they started disintegrating. I'm having a tough time even finding a DIY which presumes manifold removal. I'm worried about chewing up the hoses much more than they are already after my prying.
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I replaced my tie rod ends a few months ago. The old ones had visibly torn rubber boots and flopped around. I was concerned about driving around on them much longer. The new ones were stiffer but had smooth action. My new ones were also branded lemforder.
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It's under the transmission module, then I think commands, and I believe the button is literally reset transmission adaptation table or something. It's very self explanatory. I don't have it in front of me but it was painless compared to some of the other durametric procedures.
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Yeah I only visually inspected before, I'll double check with a DMM.
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I noticed a little while ago my reverse lights were not working and with the mirror switch in the right position that the passenger mirror wasn't dropping when in reverse. Fuse B5 checked not blown and the tail light bulbs looked ok, so I figured it was the switch on the transmission (I have a 2002 6MT 996TT). I first cleaned all the contacts on the switch on the transmission, then after that didn't work I replaced the switch since the part is only $20. The old switch tested ok with a DMM after removal, and my situation is unchanged. I guess there's a reverse light relay in the rear compartment where the ECU is. Is that the best next step to check? I thought relays rarely died in these cars. I'm not sure what else to troubleshoot or investigate, other than maybe the wiring harness on the switch which looked a little suspect but nothing major. It looked like one pin had pushed out a bit but I pushed it back into place. Is there somewhere to test the switch wiring inside the cabin and verify that the wiring and switch are working?
