Loren

Wiring diagrams are different for each model and for each model year. So please tell us the exact model and year. The 996TT did not have an LED cluster it always had the dot matrix cluster. Can you well us what you are trying to do?

I've spent a lot of time with the head mechanic at my local dealer. He actually does use a PIWIS to check the oil level. Much more accurate than the dash display according to him. SOP is to fill the new oil, wait a few minutes, check oil level with PIWIS, add oil as needed, start up engine and check for leaks, etc., turn off engine, wait, recheck oil level with PIWIS and top off if needed. Every time he goes through the PIWIS functions with me, he shows me how he checks the oil level on newer cars I don't know if this is the right thing to do or not, but this appears to be standard procedure at my local dealer I wasn't talking about a dealer doing this function - this is a DIY article. And most folks don't have a PIWIS tester at home. That was the point I was trying to make.

Well you can disconnect the feed and catch the gas in a container. That won't tell you if it is weak (no back pressure in an open line) - but it will tell you if you are getting gas.

Sometimes a piece of weatherstripping foam falls into the path and makes the flap stick. Remove the pollen filter and check with a flashlight or or by reaching inside (fan off please!).

Try 5092 or 5090 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

You can read the coolant temperature in the diagnostic mode that shows on the display at the console. I use it to monitor the engine temp while driving. Here is the info I got from Rennlist forum. ----- To access diagnostics: Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit. I have yet to verify all these, this info was copied from wonderful people on PPBB! Here is a list of what can be seen: 0c - ERL 1c - Oil Temp? 2c - Inside temp. Sensor mounted in the aspirator assembly at the side of the dash. 3c - Outside temp. Sensor located inside the air inlet of the A/C unit. 4c - Outside temp. Sensor located in front grill of the radiator. The data is fed to the Climatronic from the instrument cluster. When not moving, the instrument cluster OBC temp display retains it's last setting until moving. This is to prevent heat emanating from the radiator affecting the temperature sensor. The A/C unit uses the lower of the two outside air temp values in determining fresh-air temp. 5c - Outside temp. (matches OBC outside temp display) 6c - Coolant temp. 7c - Footwell discharge temp. 8c - Sun sensor (dash top) 9c - Sun sensor. 10c - Passenger compartment fan speed. 11c - Passenger compartment fan voltage. 12c - Temperature mix Flap command 1=COLD, 100=HOT 13c - Temperature mix Flap position 14c - Central Flap command 15c - Central Flap position 16c - Footwell/Defrost Flap command 17c - Footwell/Defrost Flap position 18c - Recirculation Valve command 1=OFF, 100=RECIRC 19c - Recirculation Valve position (feedback) 20c - Vehicle speed in kph, updating only once per second. (real speed, not speed+safety margin as in the speedometer) 21c - Engine RPM in hundreds. This too only updates once per second. 22c - ? 23c - ? 24c - Sun sensor, exterior lights switch & panel lights control (term. 58 & 58d voltage) - used for A/C panel display illum. 25c - ? 26c - ? 27c - ? 28c - Fan speed? 29c - ? 30c - Engine run time in seconds (255 max.)(=0xff) 31c - Timing counter 32c - Displays test 33c - Software version? Mine states 3.4 34c - ? 35c - Outside temp. from inlet sensor (filtered?) 36c - temp? This does not work on MY01 or newer cars. The HVAC stuff may be accurate but if you want accurate readings on engine sensors etc. use the Durametric software, a PST2 or PIWIS tester.

Please don't tell me you are suggesting he take the car to the dealer - and put a PIWIS II on the car to check the oil level.

DO NOT DO THIS! - Never disconnect battery with engine running. - Never start engine without securely connected battery. - Never use a boost charger to start the engine. Disconnecting the battery will subject the voltage regulator (and computer and audio equipment...) to significant voltage spikes which may cause an otherwise good alternator to fail. Even if there were no damaging spikes, this test would not indicate whether or not the alternator was good because the engine will easily run with a weak or failing alternator. Simple Test: If you want to see if your alternator is producing current, turn on your headlights when you're parked and the engine idling with the headlights shining on a wall (at night). Notice how bright they are. Then turn the engine off. The lights should get dimmer when you turn the engine off. If the lights get brighter when you kill the engine, the alternator was not charging sufficiently. When doing this test, the lights should be the only load (turn the stereo, a/c and other accessories off). With a heavy load, an otherwise good alternator may not be able to produce sufficient amounts of current at idle.

Try 3115 or 3113 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

9 times out 10 its the coolant tank. If there is coolant under the carpet in the rear trunk then that is confirmation.

Do a search here for cluster bulb replacement.

I don't think so. The later (dot matrix - MY02 and newer) clusters were able to be programmed for different countries and the early type (LED). The older style clusters were country specific.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/181-34-liter-engine-parts-locations/

P0600 236 CAN timeout Tiptronic - open circuit Potential causes: - Wiring harness - Tiptronic control module not connected - Tiptronic control module faulty

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/1728-horn-problem/page__view__findpost__p__11274

They are M10 x 35 external Torx.

Battery jump point or starter solenoid come to mind.

Hi Loren can you please indicate just where i can locate the crankcase sensors regards RW Please be more specific - cam sensors? oil pressure sensors? oil level sensor? knock sensors? oil temperature sensor? or ???

Most likely the sensor in the tank has gone bad.

Try 0570 or 0568 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

It appears that Porsche only sells the rod assembly- the good news is that it is only $14.09 MSRP. 996.561.229.00 Left rod 996.561.230.00 Right rod

If you are lucky - yes they can look it up by VIN. If not you will need to drive in to them and have them try keys until they find one that works.

One bolt and remove. Likely corroded in place. Careful twisting and pulling. Install tips. Before installation, ensure that there are no metal chips at the magnetic edge of the speed sensor. The gap between speed sensor and pulse wheel is determined by the design and cannot be adjusted. There is no O-ring between speed sensor and wheel carrier. 1. Coat speed sensor and the bore in the wheel carrier with Molykote Longterm 2. 2. Without using excessive force, insert speed sensor into wheel carrier and tighten the hexagon socket head bolt to 7.5 ftlb. 3. Test with Durametric or PST2 oe PIWIS tester.

Start by checking the condition of the wiring harness on the underside of the engine cover. Unplug and check the connector on that harness - look for corrosion or damage.