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Loren
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Everything posted by Loren
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Try 4394 Well, rats.....it didn't work. Any other suggestions? Cheers, Jeff Did you follow the instructions to get your serial number using the Lost Radio Code FAQ -- Please try again after using the procedure.
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I would find someone with Durametric, or a Porsche PWIIS tester so you can run diagnostics to help pinpoint the problem. Anything else is purely a guess - and perhaps an expensive one with changing out parts. -
The fuel tank cap and it seal would be the first easiest and most common fault cause.
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Most Porsche connectors have a clip or buttons you need to press to release.
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Yes, it should if you run the cab top calibration.
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Yes, it could be a "new" replacement. Only the original paperwork or Certificate of Authenticity (COA) from Porsche can verify the original engine serial number.
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We hope folks will donate annually (or more when possible). This site costs thousands of dollars per year to run. Minimum donation is $25 and there is no high limit. Thanks!
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I believe WP means Water Pump.
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M96/03 664 says the engine was built in 2004 It is a 3.6 liter - 320 HP motor The build serial number is 6156
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:welcome: P0455 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (large leak) Possible causes: - Tank cap not tightened correctly, faulty or missing - Mechanical fault in EVAP canister purge valve (does not close fully) - Leakage diagnosis pump leaking internally (membrane) or externally - Mechanical fault in EVAP canister shutoff valve (does not close fully when power is supplied) - EVAP canister shutoff valve connections leaking - Tank system (including pipes) leaking P2404 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Range/Performance Possible cause of fault: - Vacuum system leaking --> The system consists of the mechanical vacuum pump (on the vehicle engine), the leakage diagnosis pump, the intake pipe switch-over valve and, where appropriate, the exhaust flaps in the rear muffler - Vacuum pump has mechanical fault - Tank vent valve stuck in closed position - Purge-air line between tank vent valve and carbon canister blocked - Short circuit to B+/ground or open circuit in signal line - Leakage diagnosis pump faulty
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Why delete it? I am not sure some folks realized there was a question in there. Perhaps just add your question here?
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Try 8698
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IMHO - this is a job for one person and a helper. One person holds the bumper at it's proper position - while the other tightens the screws moderately. Make any final adjustments and then fully tighten them down. AND the bumper needs to be even with the front hood if the hood sticks up higher - you will get obnoxious wind noise.
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Been there done that.... :o :lol: :rolleyes: but I was much younger then... I agree - the second choice is the sensible one.
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I would pull fuse A6 - just to be safe.
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I do not see any reason why it would not work. But I think this is something someone is just going to have to try.
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Did you follow the instructions to get your serial number using the Lost Radio Code FAQ -- I think not - so please try again after using the procedure.
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Try 9279
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Try 5054
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Try 9545
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Look at where the head studs go into the case - look for oil where they go into the block and sometimes they are so bad you can move them with your fingers.
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Try 5214
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It makes sense to remove the poly-rib belt and check each pulley for drag or wobble. Do the same for the alternator and AC compressor.
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It's hard to say - did the last owner run it without oil? did they let it over-heat? You just don't know without further inspection on a lift. Why would you remove the engine? -- you need a visual inspection and compression tests. Both can be done without removing the engine. Many head stud failures can be foxed without removing the engine.
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If you have an "oiled" filter then it might make sense to clean it every year or two. But only use MAF cleaner and allow it to air dry before operating.
