Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Loren

Admin
  • Posts

    37,508
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    568

Everything posted by Loren

  1. 3/8 should be fine. Sears has some good ones. I have one torque wrench I use on engine parts (a nice but expensive Proto Tools) and a cheaper one I use for wheels and body/suspension parts (Sears). Never drop a torque wrench - cheap or expensive. For this project you could likely get by without one - just don't over tighten the bolts or they may snap off.
  2. For a Boxster but the same... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...indpost&p=16189 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...indpost&p=27394 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...indpost&p=28202 Search works really well here... ;)
  3. Other folks here have done this. Perhaps it would help if we had you told us - front or rear wheel bearing?
  4. On your MY car the M030 uses the same bar. The larger bar (again for your MY) is for C4 since it is heavier. I would change them both. Be carefull tightening - only 17 ft/lbs.
  5. If there is a beep when you lock the car there is a zone "open". You have one or more zones open (most common are console lid microswitch, front trunk microswitch). The key problem could be the switch on the Tip shift lever in the console or a bad ignition switch/lock. What were you doing with the console and did you connect all the switches back up? Any independent shop (or dealer) with a PST2 should be a able to tell you what the problem(s) pretty quickly.
  6. That part number IS the bushing (20.9 mm) for a 20.7 mm bar. Your car should have had 18.5 mm bar which uses 996.333.792.24 (18.7 mm) bushings.
  7. 996.552.677.00.01C Cover (in satin black) -- MSRP $4.32 (as of March 2006)
  8. Those part numbers come directly from the Porsche TSB that describes how to fix noises in the dashboard area. Any Porsche dealer - Sunset Imports will give better prices than I quoted but for that small amount you might want to pick it up locally.
  9. A higher rated fuse will not fix the short/problem. The only things (that are supposed to be on that circuit) are the radio and Nav system (if you have it). Any 3rd party addons? Has the radio been out of the car recently? What was your P-code?
  10. Should be B2. Second row of fuses from the top. Second fuse from the left. Should be 7.5 A.
  11. 1. I honestly have never noticed it taking that long. 2. I would check the air cleaner condition as well as the throttle body. See if there is a carbon build-up around the throttle butterfly - or just try a bottle of Chevron Techroline in your gas. 3. A small amount of ticking is normal at startup (hydraulic lifters) - if it doesn't go away when the engine is warm then you should have a tech look at (hear) it.
  12. In modern Porsche's the (solid) brown wire is always ground. If there is not a brown wire then just hook up the volt meter - if the circuit is working then it will read either +12 volts or - 12 volts.
  13. I'm pretty sure a pre-face lift GT3 Cup car bumper will fit - but I think the GT3 RS bumper would require some additional mounting points.
  14. Those are just hose clamps to keep dust and dirt out. Just get a spring-screw type clamp from your local automotive store and put that on when you are done.
  15. Do you have P-codes? Did the tech run a compression test? on all cylinders?
  16. A GT3 mark I bumper should fit. What is the part number on the bumper?
  17. They are likely glued in place. 996.505.325.91 The grill is a Porsche MotorSports part number so it would be special order from a dealer - and likely more than you paid for your bumper... :lol: You can try Sunset Imports - maybe they can get you a good price.
  18. I corrected your pictures so they would show properly... You can download or view the Porsche PET (parts/assmebly) catalog here.
  19. Since you have both P1121 and P1122 that would seem to signify that the throttle position sensor is not getting any signal. Here is the wiring connection from the DME to the throttle position sensor. The P1219/P1578 would seem to signify that the accelerator pedal sensor is also open. Here is the wiring diagram from the DME to the pedal sensor. This would suggest that the possible faults are the pedal sensor, the throttle position sensor, the wiring to these from the DME, or the DME itself.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.