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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. For a MY02 Boxster S - standard suspension 986.343.041.20 Front shocks (standard Bilstein) -- MSRP $318.21 each (as of May 2006) 986.333.051.20 Rear shocks (standard Bilstein) -- MSRP $296.54 each (as of May 2006)
  2. Sorry, I thought you said the compressor was running.
  3. These are newer than what is posted above (per TSB: 4495 13/03 Front Axle Alignment Specifications 10-24-03). Notes: - The following values relate to the empty weight, i.e. full fuel tank, vehicle with tire repair kit (or spare wheel, collapsible wheel) and tools, but without driver and without additional weights. - Tire pressure in accordance with regulations. - If the vehicle is a Cayenne with air suspension, it must be adjusted to normal level. Adjust from the low level to the normal level for the vehicle. The vehicle may be aligned and adjusted in this position only. - If the control module or one of the level sensors was replaced, calibration must be carried out with the Porsche System Tester.
  4. The usual cause of no cooling is a refrigerant leak. Any good AC shop should be able to test that. If there is a leak your average shop may not find it. Still your best bet is a Porsche "aware" AC shop. Usually the local Porsche club should have a few folks to recommend. Where are you located again?
  5. 1. Yes, just the rears. 2. Buy a torque wrench at Sears. It will be a well spent $60. The drain plug should be 37 ft/lbs. Use it for your wheel bolts too (96 ft/lbs).
  6. IMHO - I would never use a stop leak product on a Porsche. The last thing you would want on your expensive engine is a port in the block sealed. Chances are you have a leaking coolant tank and/or cap. There is a DIY in the 996 DIY forum.
  7. Both faults relate to the amount of air the engine is seeing (or thinks it sees). I would start by removing the MAF and cleaning it with electronic contact cleaner. While doing so inspect the connections to the MAF and make sure they are not damaged. It likely would not hurt to clean the idle control valve too. Use carb cleaner on that and the throttle body/butterfly.
  8. 1. Drain plug location 2. Warm (does not need to be hot) and yes turn it off. 3. Yes, I use 3 2x10's to do the same thing. 4. No, the best way is to use a torque wrench. If you don't have one then just tighten using a short wrench. You don't need (or want) to overtighten it).
  9. Usually the sealing ring is sold with the oil filter (at least good dealers do). I would remove the filter oil, let it drain for a few minutes then put it back on. I would put 8 quarts in run it for a few minutes then shut it off. Wait 5 minutes and then measure the oil. One or two bars from the top is okay. More damage can be done if you overfill.
  10. Rough running after disconnecting the battery is normal as the DME re-learns the cars idle and octane fuel mix. If it doesn't return to normal after 30 minutes or so then have your code(s) read an an Autozone (for free) or other shop and report back here.
  11. 996.351.959.01 Front Brake Mounting Kit -- MSRP $25.59 (as of May 2006) 996.352.959.01 Rear Brake Mounting Kit -- MSRP $50.04 (as of May 2006) Same part number front and rear -- should be the same price from the dealer. (edit - as Tool Pants pointed out we both misread it... here is the corrected version) I have no idea why the rear costs more...
  12. Unless you have a catastrophic failure it should not need to be changed - ever.
  13. :welcome: Wow, a MY99 with only 19,000 miles (sounds like my car :lol: ) Yes, from the images it does look like the RMS area leak. Could be either RMS or intermediate shaft leak or both. Here in California I have heard quotes as low as $800 and as high $1300. So your quote might be just a little high based on that. Porsche dealers that do the work here also give a 1 year or 2 year warranty on the new seal(s)/work performed. Are you getting a warranty?
  14. Item 7 in your diagram is the Idle Control Valve. Item 4 is the fragile paper gasket for it. Only MY99 C2 996's are non-egas and have the ICV. C4's and all later 996's have egas so they do not have the ICV.
  15. How hot does it get where you live? If it gets over 90 degrees F -- I would change it.
  16. Hehehe... GT3 Cup Car chassis... just add GT3 brakes, coilovers and few more horses...
  17. Only 0W-40 and 5W-40 are approved by Porsche at this time. Previously Porsche approved 15W-50 but that came off the list a couple of years ago.
  18. Any porsche dealer can get you an exchange engine. I doubt they will allow something like a 2.5 traded-in for a 3.2 liter. I think the prices are based on "like" replacements.
  19. Wouldn't that be a problem since the US cars use 315 MHz and UK (and most of RoW) use 433 MHz? Might be worth trying....
  20. :welcome: Not really, an audible beep on a Porsche means you have a zone open. If you want a beep then leave the center (armrest) console open. What I and several others have done instead is the sidemarker hack. This hack will make the side markers flash (like the front and rear lights) when you arm and disarm the alarm system. An added benefit is that the sidemarkers will also now flash when you use your turn signals. Sandy's Flashing Sidemarker Hack
  21. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=392
  22. Before I went to that much trouble I would clear it and see if it comes back. ;)
  23. That is a Cup Car brake seal repair kit (hence the part number ending in 91). The Cup car service manual says it includes seals and pistons. Is your car a Cup Car? Why not use the standard GT3 repair kit?
  24. Yes. Porsche normally says if superseded parts should be replaced in pairs (both sides). There is no note here - so either part number should work. I am not sure when this part changed to the 997 number so dealers may still have 996 numbered parts in stock.
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