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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Yes, hydraulic line. Clutch slave cylinder goes here (roughly).
  2. I haven't had any screens for 6 years - zero CELs. You need to have your car fault codes read (not all cause a CEL) and you need to track your fuel trims and MAF readings. An independent shop can do this or some OBD II software that run on a laptop can be used. Until then you are shooting in the dark (IMHO).
  3. It should be in about the same postion. Very high near the bell housing. You should be able to follow the hydraulic line to it - it has a loop or two in it.
  4. All those questions are answered on their site Durametric.com.
  5. There are lots of independent shops in the LA area that have a PST2 or you could buy the Durametric software - it will work on the 993 also.
  6. There is an angle sensor located at the suspension on each wheel. They are not adjustable and if one is replaced the system must be re-calibrated with a PST2 (or PIWIS tester). Then the headlights must be adjusted in the normal way. The same goes for the control module for the automatic headlight adjustment.
  7. Correct. The only tools that I am aware of that can clear airbag (and other non-DME) codes is the Durametric Software (about $250), a used PST2 (about $3600 on eBay), or a PIWIS tester (about $18,000 per year from your dealer). Where are you located?
  8. I think most RoW cars had a level adjustment knob just to left of the light switch. If there is not enough adjustment there then you should follow the headlight adjustment procedure in your owners manual.
  9. We have upgraded our Books, Tools, and other related Porsche products referral service at Amazon.com. We now have store profile for easier shopping. Plenty of new items like ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid for $8.99 per liter. All Amazon products are now available and items purchased from Amazon (by using the RennTech.org Store at Amazon.com) will give a small percentage of the sale back to RennTech.org. These purchases help support this site and it's operating costs. Thank you for your support! You can access the store through the drop-down menu here or directly at RennTech.org Store at Amazon.com
  10. Is your car a MY01 or MY02? MY01 would have Litronic and MY02 (and newer) would have Bi-Xenon.
  11. Your Boxster should idle at 750 RPM (Tiptronic - with AC off) and 800 RPM with the AC on. If your car idles higher chances are your Idle Control Valve is sticking and/or your throttle butterfly has a carbon buildup that needs to be cleaned. Not to my knowledge.
  12. Are you sure that heat shield is not touching a muffler?
  13. No, the Aerokit Cup wing is fixed. The factory wing can be adjusted manually to three different positions - flat (stock), middle or full. Porsche suggests full only be used at the track. If you are converting from a non-aerokit car then you will need a new wiring harness for the deck lid (or your spoiler light will always stay on). The harness comes with factory aerokit packages. Here is my Aerokit Cup wing in the middle position (not a great shot).
  14. Calibration is usually necessary after replacement of the fuel tank, fuel level sensor or instrument cluster. This would especially be true if the new cluster came from a C4 and your car is a C2 (or the other way around C2-C4). This requires removing and refilling with exactly12 liters of fuel. Then using a PST2 (or PIWIS tester) to re-calibrate the cluster.
  15. Correct - they will not fit. Both the bumper shape and exhaust design changed in MY02 (and newer cars). Perhaps an exhaust specialty shop could make them work with a welding but they are definitely not bolt-on.
  16. Removing and installing the engine drive belt Removing the engine drive belt 1. Remove the complete air cleaner assembly (1). - Undo hexagon head bolt M6 x 34. - Undo the hose clamp on the throttle body. - Remove the connector for the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and remove air cleaner assembly. 2. Loosen servo pump wheel (2). - Mark belt travel direction with a colored pen (if you are going to re-use the belt). - Undo the three hexagon head bolts on the servo pump by approx. one half turn. 3. Rel Author Loren Category TT/GT2 (996) - Maintenance Submitted 08/28/2006 07:32 AM Updated 03/10/2017 02:09 PM
  17. Removing the engine drive belt 1. Remove the complete air cleaner assembly (1). - Undo hexagon head bolt M6 x 34. - Undo the hose clamp on the throttle body. - Remove the connector for the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and remove air cleaner assembly. 2. Loosen servo pump wheel (2). - Mark belt travel direction with a colored pen (if you are going to re-use the belt). - Undo the three hexagon head bolts on the servo pump by approx. one half turn. 3. Relieve drive belt (3). - To do this, turn the tensioning roller clockwise and simultaneously remove the belt from the drive pulleys. 4. Remove servo pump wheel (4). Note - Only remove the servo pump wheel when the drive belt tension is completely relieved! - Remove servo pump wheel with drive belt to the rear. - Remove the belt from all drive wheels and lift up to remove. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Installation of the engine drive belt 1. Fit drive belt (1). - Fit the belt onto the drive wheels. 2. Position servo pump wheel (2). - Put on the servo pump wheel together with the drive belt. - Slightly tighten the three fastening screws on the servo pump wheel. 3. Tension drive belt (3). Note - It is absolutely necessary to check that the drive belt is correctly seated on all belt pulleys! - To tension the drive belt, turn the tensioning roller 7 in clockwise direction and simultaneously fit the drive belt on the deflection roller 8. - Then slowly relieve. To do this, turn the tensioning roller slowly counter−clockwise (anti-clockwise). 4. Tighten fastening screws on servo pump (4). - Tighten the fastening screws of the servo pump drive wheel. Tightening torque: 17 ftlb. (23 Nm) 5. Install air cleaner assembly (5). - Attach connector onto mass air flow sensor (MAF). - Tighten the hose clamp on the throttle body. - Tighten the M6 x 34 hexagon−head bolt to 7.5 ftlb. (10 Nm)
  18. Cold - yes Warm - no. There is a TSB for more of a screeching noise on during warmup (on 987's only). If you are getting this screeching noise then you should take it to your dealer and tell them you have the problem described in TSB 1/06 1726 Screeching Noise From the Engine During Warm-up -- dated Feb 27, 2006.
  19. There are more than a couple of TSBs for MY99 clutch issues. Your problem sounds like a faulty release arm. There are also TSBs for the pedal return spring and a misaligned clutch pedal.
  20. I would check all of the drains. Is your car a coupe? If so, here is where they are located.
  21. It is a bit more complicated. I'll try to put a DIY together in the next couple of days. You can find the new TT belt replacement here.
  22. I would crank in a litttle more (negative) camber than RoW sport and a little less than X74 (X74 is 30 mm lower).
  23. Carrera (RoW -- not US) 996.631.485.00 left rear tailight housing 996.631.486.00 right rear tailight housing C4S (RoW -- not US) 996.631.487.00 left rear tailight housing 996.631.488.00 right rear tailight housing
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