Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Loren

Admin
  • Posts

    37,509
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    568

Everything posted by Loren

  1. Are you sure the part number is not 996.332.024.9B? The 9B was used on the MY03 GT3 RS (full race cars). Again, sorry I don't have older cup car info.
  2. I don't know when the blue axle shafts started. My model year 2003 GT3 Cup Service book says the blue ones are 996.332.024.92.
  3. From the Porsche OBD II manual. BTW... not all faults turn on the CEL - temporary faults do not mean that the problem can not be corrected without intervention. Many temporary faults are self corrected.
  4. No, the Targa came out after the switches changed from glossy to matte finish - so there is no glossy Targa switch.
  5. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=48522 Search is your friend ;)
  6. I sent you a reply by PM. The cooling system list is 16 pages and you will need to go through it and subsitute the GT2 parts (they are marked) for TT parts. Here is the GT2 bumper parts list: gt2_front_bumper.pdf
  7. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=45985 Search is your friend ;)
  8. I would try new batteries and the reverse/reboot trick too. I think an alarm controller is expensive.
  9. Yes, but it could be intermittent. To my knowledge - yes. We have seen that same error fault on many cars that work fine.
  10. You will need to ask the Durametric folks. I have a PST2 and it will reset any code(s) in any model Porsche. Of course it cost more than ten times what the Durametic Software did. ;)
  11. This says that the alarm controller is not getting a signal from your key fob transponder. Try another key or you could have a bad key fob (transponder). Fairly common - likely nothing to worry about. The motion sensor detected something moving (once). This is not enough to trigger an alarm.
  12. This just means that the battery was disconnected recently. I think it is just there to warn that perhaps someone was trying to defeat the alarm (except in this case it was likely you or someone else trying to clear codes). The ABS light simply means that a problem or fault has been detected in the ABS system. It may or may not be working. Did you use the Durametric Software to check for ABS codes? If the contact cleaner fix does not work then you will need new belt buckles as described in the TSB.
  13. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=51555
  14. As it says on the donation page You have now been upgraded - elaspsed time -- 48 minutes. You should have full access now.
  15. The front sensor (item 18). There should be a small strut (item 20) and everything is held on with screws, bolts and nuts. I would look to see what is missing or broken/bent. The rear is very similar. Sensor (item 21) strut (item 20). etc.
  16. In the service manual it looks like there are small hooks that point downward to hold the map pocket in place. It would appear that sliding the pocket upward would disconnect the hooks from the holes in the seat back. Seat map pocket item 6.
  17. Yes, the OEM radio ties into the OEM alarm system. An aftermarket system can be tied in or it can be left out of the OEM alarm system. As I said it sounds like you need a quick scan of the alarm controllers fault codes to detect what the problem is. That same test program can verify that your key fob is working or not working. Where are you located? Some independent shops (and a few private owners - like me) have a PST2 (or PIWIS tester).
  18. What happened to the factory alarm? Have a shop with a PST2 (or PIWIS tester) read out your alarm fault codes, diagnose and fix the factory alarm.
  19. Buy a Porsche Battery Maintainer from Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost.
  20. 70 AH battery for a Boxster and 80 AH for a Boxster S. Have a look here.
  21. O2 sensors can go bad after 60K. Like I said could be a bad connection or a bad sensor. To find out: Check resistance of oxygen sensor heating. 1. Remove connector of oxygen sensor 1 ahead of TWC. 2. Connect ohmmeter to pin 1 and pin 2 of the oxygen sensor connector towards the oxygen sensor. Display: < 2.6 Ω at 25 °C Measure resistance between oxygen sensor housing and oxygen sensor heating. 1. Remove connector of oxygen sensor 1 ahead of TWC. 2. Connect ohmmeter to pin 1 of oxygen sensor housing and oxygen sensor connector towards the oxygen sensor. Display: ∞=Ω 3. Connect ohmmeter to pin 2 of oxygen sensor housing and oxygen sensor connector towards the oxygen sensor. Display: ∞=Ω
  22. Could be a bad connection or a bad O2 sensor heater (not uncommon). How many miles on the car/O2 sensors?
  23. P1115 Oxygen Sensor Heating Ahead of TWC, Bank 1 – Above Limit Potential causes: Heating current too high – Heating resistance too low – Short to B+ Heating current too low – Short to ground – Corrosion in connector – Break in wiring except for a few litz wires Open circuit – Break in wiring – Heating resistance too great Internal resistance of oxygen sensor too high – Open circuit in sensor line – Oxygen sensor
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.