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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Loren
    Are you talking to Jeff Clark at Sunset Imports? He definitely know the difference between US and RoW M030 suspensions. Perhaps there is a misunderstanding. You could always order it from Gert@carnewal.com -- because of the strong Euro you will pay a bit more.
  2. Loren
    Sunset Imports can get you RoW parts they just take longer since they are not sold in the US. RoW M030 is the standard for Sport Suspension everywhere except US/Canada. Just be sure you want 30 mm lower.
  3. Loren
    If you live in the US take the car to an Autozone or other parts supply business and get your fault codes read for free. Check for a P0102 fault. P0102 is the same error you will get if the MAF is unplugged. This can also cause ABS and PSM lights to come on as the DME is not sensing the PSM data and combining it with the throttle position and mass air flow readings.
  4. Loren
    You can find more here.
  5. Loren
    Look for leaks in the rear trunk (lift the carpet) and near the left right rear wheel. Also, check around the (blue) cap for leaks. If your cap part number does not end in "01" it should be replaced. If you don't have any leaks then it is likely a bad level sensor.
  6. Loren
    I would say the first step is hook the car up to a PST2 and see what the faults are? Since parts have been removed and either replaced or re-installed then a calibration would be in order also (PST2 again). Where are you located?
  7. Loren
    That number (000.044.500.27) is for the (10 mm lower) US M030 suspension MY02-04, Coupe, 6-speed. If you want the ROW M030 (30 mm lower) then it is 000.044.500.35.
  8. Loren
    Says a lot. My transmission/clutch does not rattle either... Hmm... maybe time to find a new shop... but I said that before... ;)
  9. Loren
    Sorry, I posted the wrong part numbers - I have edited that post above. The last part number you posted (997.333.053.24) is for a 997TT.
  10. Loren
    One more item I would like to mention... I think that if for some reason the cam sensor is not working and there IS a cam or cam chain problem it could be very serious (i.e. like putting a valve through a piston). On earlier Porsche's if you had a timing chain problem (or chain rail) the result was usually a bad collision of the piston and valves. I think that is why any cam sensor failure is flagged by the DME as a fault. So, I guess I am saying you want a cam sensor and you want it working to detect any problems and warn you prior to any serious damage.
  11. Loren
    Uh... LVDell is writing this up (not me). Try PMing him ;)
  12. Loren
    Probably a P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor 1 - Signal Implausible, Short to Ground, Short to B+ and/or P1397 Camshaft Position Sensor 2 - Signal Implausible, Short to Ground, Short to B+ and a CEL.
  13. Loren
    Again, if your problems are only lights related that would point to the light switch. If you have other electrical problems then that would point to ignition switch. What you are saying here is lights only so I would go for the light switch.
  14. Loren
    Yes, they could be. I would reset them and drive the car for a few days and see if they come back.
  15. Loren
    Stage 2 overrevs are potentially engine damaging. Stage 1 overrevs are ones that the DME caught and didn't allow the engine to continue. Stage 2 overrevs are uncontrolled and are usually caused by missed down shifts where the engine is forced to run faster than it can or spinning the car and not putting the clutch in where the engine can actually run backwards. I personally would stay away from a car with stage 2 overrevs - unless they want to offer you a 3 year unconditional engine warranty ;)
  16. Loren
    I usually stat with both bars in their last (or next last link). Then I drive the car. I add stiffness at the end that needs it most - to fit my driving style.
  17. Loren
    Has anybody looked at the fuel trim readings with a PST2 (or high end OBD II scan tool)? -- and mass air flow? I wonder if your MAF is giving errant readings thus telling the DME to lean the mixture?
  18. Loren
    Sorry to hear that. I wonder what happened to the cam chain. Seems ususal on these cars (but fairly common on older (air-cooled) cars).
  19. Loren
    Could be a loose sway bar or a strut going bad.
  20. Loren
    There are two or three variants of boosters used on these cars are they are all a little different. Did they replace the booster? and/or did they reset the pushrod dimension? "Note: Basic setting of the push rod-dimension X is 138 mm (set in new brake boosters)! If necessary, correct during the relevant work!"
  21. Loren
    A couple of our moderators live in that area. You might PM clord and/or grant and see if they are willing to take a look at it for you.
  22. Loren
    Where are you located?
  23. Loren
    The whole panel (like in step 17) just pulls straight out. If you can get your fingernails under it - it will pop out. Or, use a dull bladed knife and a towel to protect the dash.
  24. Loren
    The brake pedal height can be adjusted very little. It is mainly intended to adjust the brake pedal height for proper "heel and toeing". Sorry, but if the pedal is low I would still suspect air in the lines. Did they bleed the ABS system too?
  25. Loren
    If the problem only occurs when you switch on the headlights then it is most likely the headlight switch. If it occurs, at any time it is most likely the ignition switch.
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