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Loren

Admin
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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Get the VIN and then process it through Scouser's VIN Decoder here.
  2. Nice pics! Is it just me or are the rear spoilers getting taller and taller ever year? Looks like it is almost even with the roof line now. Reminds me of the 70's Chaparral's...
  3. "in the Maintenance Book" is one place. Sometimes it is required on your vehicle registration. Otherwise you will need to tell us the exact model year, body style, etc. of your car. Oh, and whether it is a US/Canada car or RoW.
  4. My honest opinion... lose the 19" wheels. IMHO with the PSS9's you want a little more sidewall rubber (and fewer bent wheels).
  5. If you mean this type of pedals? You will need to drill the stock pedals to attach the new pedals. Instructions and templates are usually included.
  6. No, some people leave the stock ones on so they can drive on the street.
  7. 2 to 4 times larger than the standard brake ducts.
  8. Have a look at the later 996 TSB for the PSE w/switch. The wiring is described there.
  9. Yes, it is switched 12 volts.
  10. Yes, that is the GT3 RS/ClubSport kill switch instructions I sent you via PM.
  11. The 987 and 997 are handled completely differently and can be disabled with a PIWIS tester. The 986 and 996 series can not be disabled with the Porsche tester.
  12. Ok, the Cup Car part require you to cut a hole in the front hood and basically use a Cup Car wiring harness throughout. Probably not a good solution for a non-dedicated track car. The GT3 RS parts are listed in PET but not shown in any images. Look in this list after item 37. gt3_kill_switch_parts.pdf I can PM you the install instructions if you want.
  13. Do you mean the Cup Car parts?
  14. Most common are the center console latch and the front hood microswitch. A PST2 or PIWIS will certainly tell you and I think the Durametrtic Software will tell you also.
  15. Did you try doing a search? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=37289
  16. Have you seen these all metal replacements (by a member here) -- Link I have these and they work super. If you want the factory parts: 999.073.143.09 Oval head screw (2 required) -- MSRP $0.40 each (as of January 2007) 999.500.092.00 Nut (2 required) -- MSRP $2.79 each
  17. If you hear a chirp then you have an open alarm zone. I would resolve that issue first. Also, have you tried your spare second key? Does it do the same?
  18. The standard brake ducts on a 996 and 997 are the same. The larger (Motorsport) brake ducts used on the 996 GT3 and 997 GT3 are different. I do not know if the the 997 GT3 brake ducts will fit on a 997 (until someone tries). Also realize that the larger ducts are much easier to scrap on driveways and uneven roads.
  19. 7.2 DME manual says:
  20. I would think if it were an internal muffler problem (broken weld) it would rattle all the time - but who knows? :rolleyes:
  21. 996.424.980.22.C50 Aluminum/Leather Handbrake (Graphite Grey Leather) -- MSRP $393.23 (as of January 2007). I'm sure Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost (Sunset Imports) can give you a much better price.
  22. Usually the heat shield just needs to be bent a little further away from the muffler. It might be good to have someone else start the car while you listen and try to locate the noise.
  23. Could also be a heat shield near one of the mufflers. They make a "tinny" sound and likely move away as soon as they are warm.
  24. There are paint marks (stripes) on each coil spring the top two designate the version (standard, US sport, RoW sport, Tiptronic or manual, etc., etc.). A third stripe designates the spring plates thickness (compensation spacer) and will be either green or white.
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