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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. If you mean this type of pedals? You will need to drill the stock pedals to attach the new pedals. Instructions and templates are usually included.
  2. No, some people leave the stock ones on so they can drive on the street.
  3. Have a look at the later 996 TSB for the PSE w/switch. The wiring is described there.
  4. Yes, that is the GT3 RS/ClubSport kill switch instructions I sent you via PM.
  5. The 987 and 997 are handled completely differently and can be disabled with a PIWIS tester. The 986 and 996 series can not be disabled with the Porsche tester.
  6. Ok, the Cup Car part require you to cut a hole in the front hood and basically use a Cup Car wiring harness throughout. Probably not a good solution for a non-dedicated track car. The GT3 RS parts are listed in PET but not shown in any images. Look in this list after item 37. gt3_kill_switch_parts.pdf I can PM you the install instructions if you want.
  7. Most common are the center console latch and the front hood microswitch. A PST2 or PIWIS will certainly tell you and I think the Durametrtic Software will tell you also.
  8. Did you try doing a search? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=37289
  9. Have you seen these all metal replacements (by a member here) -- Link I have these and they work super. If you want the factory parts: 999.073.143.09 Oval head screw (2 required) -- MSRP $0.40 each (as of January 2007) 999.500.092.00 Nut (2 required) -- MSRP $2.79 each
  10. If you hear a chirp then you have an open alarm zone. I would resolve that issue first. Also, have you tried your spare second key? Does it do the same?
  11. The standard brake ducts on a 996 and 997 are the same. The larger (Motorsport) brake ducts used on the 996 GT3 and 997 GT3 are different. I do not know if the the 997 GT3 brake ducts will fit on a 997 (until someone tries). Also realize that the larger ducts are much easier to scrap on driveways and uneven roads.
  12. I would think if it were an internal muffler problem (broken weld) it would rattle all the time - but who knows? :rolleyes:
  13. 996.424.980.22.C50 Aluminum/Leather Handbrake (Graphite Grey Leather) -- MSRP $393.23 (as of January 2007). I'm sure Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost (Sunset Imports) can give you a much better price.
  14. Usually the heat shield just needs to be bent a little further away from the muffler. It might be good to have someone else start the car while you listen and try to locate the noise.
  15. Could also be a heat shield near one of the mufflers. They make a "tinny" sound and likely move away as soon as they are warm.
  16. There are paint marks (stripes) on each coil spring the top two designate the version (standard, US sport, RoW sport, Tiptronic or manual, etc., etc.). A third stripe designates the spring plates thickness (compensation spacer) and will be either green or white.
  17. MY98 RoW M030 springs Front: 986.343.511.11 -- color coded - red yellow Rear: 986.333.511.11 -- color coded - red red BTW... I would really recommend the kit with the proper struts, bump stops and swaybars - unless you have the US M030 already.
  18. How you tried re-aligning the cables on the shifter? Do a search here for align and tool to do the alignment (non B&M type shifters only).
  19. 1. These are MotorSport part numbers so there could be a delay when ordering - check with Sunset Imports. If there is a delay I'm pretty syre Gert at Carnewal.com has these in stock. 996.512.821.90 4 degree shims 996.512.823.90 8 degree shims 2. Check with Jeff at Sunset Imports - I don'tknow if the TT (hollow wheel) metal valve stems will work on GT3 wheels (I've never tried). They might but the hollow wheels are much thicker so I don't know if the metal valves will stick out. Also, the metal valve stems also seal on both the front and inside of the so I don't know if the GT3 wheels have the proper surface for that. BYW... even the GT3 RS uses rubber valve stems.
  20. I am thinking the C4S or TT ducts would work but the radiators are the slightly larger (as I recall).
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