Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to subscribe or donate. All subscriptions and donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual subscription or donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you subscribe RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's quality Porsche information at a low cost.

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by subscribing or donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Loren

Admin
  • Posts

    37,829
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    632

Everything posted by Loren

  1. You do not have to remove the dash to replace those pieces. The defroster pieces are know to break the plastic clips when they are replaced. I think the sun causes the plastic to become brittle there. It is best to buy a few spares before doing the replacement.
  2. I think your first thought is likely correct -- sounds like a wheel bearing.
  3. That is a good idea. :D A small problem is that recently Duarametric put a three car limit on the their standard software (Enthusiast Package). Their "Professional Kit" version is still unlimited. So only folks with the Professional version should offer to run the Durametric Software on other's cars. I have a PST2, PIWIS, Durametric Software, and Car Code OBD-2 software. I now have access to PIWIS 2 also. I am in Roseville California (near Sacramento). We will likely start a "Work on Cars Day" in our area soon - similar to what Jeff (Tool Pants) and I did in the San Francisco Bay area. I moved this thread to the Diagnostics, Tips and Tools Forum and pinned it at the top. Please feel free to add to this thread of have have one of these tools and are willing to help your fellow Porsche enthusiasts!
  4. No, not at an oil change but a transmission oil change. Porsche says 90,000 miles in their recommended maintenance. You can find more Maintenance Schedules info here.
  5. A Porsche "Workshop Campaign" is not a recall. It is a Porsche (voluntary) campaign to fix a number of minor issues in a number of cars. Sometime these are VIN specific and sometimes they are not. These are voluntary on your part also. You do not have to go in and have these items fixed/upgraded to current production levels... although I do not know why you wouldn't. These are general tasks that should be performed on any car (as specified in the bulletin) at the next opportune service. In the TSB section you will see a number of bulletins with the number beginning with "W" - these are all Workshop Campaigns. For example the 996 had 8 workshop campaign bulletins and the Cayenne had 19.
  6. Porsche had a retrofit kit for the 986 and 996 complete with instructions - I have not see a kit like that for the 987 or 997 yet. I am not saying it can't be done but you would likely need to get each individual part.
  7. Do you have a pic? Also, we will need the color.
  8. Incredible! What a bunch of idiots - with that attitude you could end up owning the dealership. Hope it all works out for you
  9. Do you mean like the Becker aftermarket connector wiring here?
  10. Micro-encapsulated means the bolts have a sealant on the threads that once used they can not be reused. You should always replace these type of bolts whenever they have been removed.
  11. Look in section 0-3 pages 14-16 in the OBD II DME 7.8 manual.
  12. Yes, it could be a worn regulator - but you usually (but not always) have other window problems too.
  13. That could be a stuck purge valve (open) - but that usually throws a P0440 or P0441 too.
  14. Well, 1/4 inch is likely enough if the window is moving evenly. Mine moves between 1/4 and 1/2 inch. Do both windows do the same? Does the curve of the window match the curve of the top? (if not the lateral adjustment may be off) Or, does the window stick out and away from the chassis door gasket?
  15. For what model year please?
  16. Do not ground the gray/pink wire as that is the speed signal from the cluster that is used by other systems. If you want to hear the exhaust with no cutout then do not connect the gray/pink wire.
  17. Here are all the tests you can perform on the purge valve (since you did not say what your fault code was): Check purge air line for blockage. 1. Remove front right-hand wheel housing liner. 2. Detach purge air line (connection face up) from EVAP canister. 3. Blow through purge air line with compressed air. Check voltage supply for EVAP canister purge valve. 1. Remove connector of EYAP canister purge valve. 2. Connect voltmeter (positive) to EYAP canister purge valve connector, pin 1, and ground. 3. Switch on the ignition. Display: battery voltage Check EVAP canister Purge valve. 1. Remove connector of EVAP canister purge valve. 2. Connect ohmmeter to EVAP canister purge valve pins 1 and 2. Display: 26 ± 4 ohms at 20°C. Check triggering wire for EVAP canister purge valve. 1. Remove connector of EVAP canister purge valve. 2. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 3. Connect ohmmeter to EVAP canister purge valve, pin 2, and special tool 9616, pin 61. Display: 0 - 5 ohms Check triggering wire for EVAP canister purge valve for short circuit to B+. 1. Remove connector of EVAP canister purge valve. 2. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector), 3. Connect voltmeter (positive) to EVAP canister purge valve connector, pin 2, and ground. 4. Switch on the ignition. Display: 0 V If battery voltage is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. Check triggering wire for EVAP canister purge valve for short circuit to ground. 1. Remove connector of EVAP canister purge valve. 2. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 3. Connect ohmmeter to EVAP canister purge valve connector, pin 2, and ground. Display: infinite ohms If 0 to 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage
  18. When you lift the door handle the window should always drop about 1/2 inch. When the door is open it should stay down (that 1/2 inch) until the door is closed then it should raise back up to the fully closed position. My understanding is that there are two microswitches that control those functions - the one on the door handle tells the window to lower and the one in the lock mechanism tells the window when the door is shut. The switches are not adjustable and would need to be replaced if those functions are not working correctly. If the other window operation is normal you can likely rule out a bad window regulator.
  19. 996.641.117.03.70C is a direct replacement for 996.641.117.00.70C. Until your new is coded properly I do not know what it will do - remember your old cluster is coded for your car.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.