Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Loren

Admin
  • Posts

    37,511
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    568

Everything posted by Loren

  1. If you have the new shifter installed (the inside version) then the tool will do you no good - it doesn't fit the new shifter rod. If you count the threads from the connector end the left (reverse) cable is usually 4-5 threads and the right is usually 6-7 threads - at least in my experience. That should get you pretty close. If that doesn't work then you will likely have to borrow a standard shifter from someone - install it - then use the tool to align the cables.
  2. 996.631.05.00 Left reflector cover (orange) If you have Litronics (or upgraded your headlights) use: 996.631.45.01 Left reflector cover (clear)
  3. Well you need to test master and slave cylinders for internal leaks. If the slave cylinder is leaking, the outside of the casting will usually be wet with fluid and you will occasionally have to add fluid. If the master cylinder is leaking it will wet the inside of the firewall at the clutch pedal linkage.
  4. The gas flap (door) only locks when you lock the car (it is also alarmed). It shares the locking/alarm circuit with front hood.
  5. Contributing Members have access to this much more... ;)
  6. Just click on the Donate link at the top left of any page and follow the instructions.
  7. Well, either the master or slave could be leaking internally. The slave is high on the transmission and has a hydraulic hose going to it (also a bleed valve).
  8. There are two parts. The foot rest (item 2) and the foot rest cover (item 5). Do you need one or both?
  9. I was in a dealership shop and saw tech do this in about 15 minutes. He used a battery powered tool to remove all the pan bolts - but the reinstall was all by hand. Remember 7.5 ft/lbs is not very much.
  10. I had seen that statement. I just don't know what all they are calling "oil pumps". Technically I guess oil return pumps are pumping oil but if your main oil pump fails the result would be the same. Here is a further explanation: "In comparison to the 8 oil pumps on the 911 Turbo (996), the new 911 Turbo features an additional extraction pump in the crankcase, resulting in a total of 9 oil pumps. These break down into 8 oil extraction and one oil delivery pump: 2 oil extraction pumps for the turbochargers, 4 oil extraction pumps for the cylinder heads (2 per cylinder head), and 2 extraction pumps and one delivery pump in the crankcase."
  11. Same fill location. Hmm... I know there is one main oil pump and then one oil return pump for each cylinder bank - that make 3. Where are the other 6?
  12. Contributing Members have viewing access to all TSBs here - but since they are copyrighted they can not be copied or printed.
  13. Ok, much different problem. The clutch is hydraulic so there would likely be little seen movement except back at the slave cylinder - and most of the moving parts are inside the transmission housing. Any signs of visible leaks at the clutch master cylinder (near the pedals) or the clutch slave cylinder (on the transmission)? Sounds like either the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder is bad.
  14. The windows on a 996 are one touch down and one touch up - I am positive -- I own a 996. Only Cab rear windows go down part of the to lower and raise the top. I have not tried a 997 (and don't have one around now) - but it does not make sense that Porsche would go backwards with a simple feature like this. I still think that if your windows are not one-touch then something is wrong with your car. I do not know if that is programmable with a PIWIS on a 997 but wasn't programmable on a 996. You don't need any Cayman parts - you need your window(s) fixed.
  15. You say the car cranks which rules out the clutch switch. So does the car start or not?
  16. The car won't run without the DME. Why are these all out?
  17. How did you rule out the switch? Connect the two wires and try it...
  18. The gray one. (photo courtesy Tom Morris)
  19. Please keep it friendly here folks -- everyone has right to "their own" opinion.
  20. I think you have only be one switch if your Boxster does not have cruise control.
  21. Yes, it should be checked with any alignment. Many times in does not need to be re-calibrated. But it is the same process to calibrate it with a PST2 or PIWIS tester. You see part of the "intelligence" of PSM is that it needs to know when your front wheels are pointed straight or turned (like in a skid). So this sensor is pretty important.
  22. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=39077
  23. Carrera windows are one-touch. Start by retraining your windows. Bring the window all way down by holding the button down - then continue to hold for 10 seconds longer. Do the same for the window up position. Now they should work as one touch. If they don't then you likely have a bad window regulator.
  24. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7592
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.