Loren

All the factory radios are Becker so someone that knows your after market radio will have to help out. Was the amp changed with the after market head? The BOSE system could have come with either the Harmon amp or the BOSE amp. The amp is in the front trunk - you will need to find the label and see what it is.

Welcome It would be very helpful to know the model year of your car? It would also help to us the model number on the front of your radio. Under your front hood is a sticker with some codes on it - these are option codes. You need to write those down and check them with our option lists here to see what options are on the car.

If it is just one cylinder then it pretty much has to be the coil, the wire, or the spark plug.

The engine compartment purge fan rarely comes on. Mine has only come on twice -- and I live in 90 plus degree California! Here are the conditions the fan comes on at. From the service manual... "Switch-on conditions for engine compartment fan (this fan pulls air into the engine compartment) The engine compartment fan is switched on when the engine compartment temperature is > 176 degrees F or the coolant temperature is > 216 degrees F. After-running of engine compartment fan If the ignition is switched off and the engine compartment temperature is more than 140 degrees F, the DME control module remains in readiness for another 20 minutes. During this time, the engine compartment temperature is retrieved every 10 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is > 185 degrees F , the engine compartment fan is switched on for 20 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is still > 185 degrees F after this time, the fan remains on for a further 30 seconds."

986.537.901.00 Left door gasket (note that this is a new number) 986.537.902.00 Right door gasket (note that this is a new number)

Just to be sure... Item 9?

According to the 2004 Anniversary Edition Product Book.

Harry, That valve lets air out of the system but not coolant (bleed valve with a membrane). The only way I see it could have had an affect is if you had trapped air that could not be released.

In every case I have seen MUST put a battery maintainer on the car to program it. I think this is a safety feature so that you don't corrupt the DME.

1. Do you have a charger on the car? The PST2 (or PIWIS) will not let you program the DME, alarm, or keys unless it sees a voltage above 12 volts. 2. So you are trying to put a DME 5.2.2 non-egas DME in an egas car?

Sorry, we can't help with codes for PCM 1. You will need to go to a dealer/OPC.

The GT3 Mk1 was not sold in the US or Canada. IMHO the GT3 engine is the most rugged and reliable currently produced. Yes, it is low and the coilovers will give a rougher ride than a Carrera. I don't recall the interior noise being any better or worse than a Carrera. IMHO the 997 GT3 is quite a bit more sophisticated that the 996 GT3. The 996 GT3 was a little more "raw racecar". Have a look at the 997 GT3 Technical Brochure in the Contributing Members Forum for 49 pages of detail.

Very nicely done pongobaz! Do have small hands - because several folks have said those screws are nearly impossible to get to.

A MY02 should have the newer cap. Turns out some of the black caps don't show a part number (as we found out today).

Those dealers need to read their Porsche TSBs. This one is: TSB 1/00 2445 Air Flow Sensor -- dated 4-18-00 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=49096

Please re-read the board rules and guidelines that you agreed to when you registered here. Commercial posts are not allowed nor is flaming individuals or companies. If you did not work for competing company your comments would be just "your opinion" - being that you do work for a competing company it is a flame and will not be tolerated in the future. If you believe your company makes a better tool then by all means tell us what it can do. Better yet send an evaluation to one of our staff to be reviewed and evaluated. This particular thread is intended to be a Registry of folks willing to help other (for free) with the diagnostic tool(s) that they have whether it be PST2, PIWIS, or Durametric Software. In the future if you wish to discuss a new or different tool - please start a new thread. Thank you. So I take it that you are part of the Staff. Or a senior Renntech member. I have noticed that you have written very highly of the other scan tool. Any how I am not trying to sell a scan tool to porsche aficionados. I would like to offer my help to any one in the L.A. area with any type of Diagnostics since I am a Porsche Certified Tech / A.S.E. Certified Master Tech as well. I miss troubleshooting and would just like to help for free. I dont own porsche, but I love to fix hard engine performance and electrical problems. vizcarra44 vizcarra44@yahoo.com Yes, I am staff here (I started and own this board). The reason I can speak highly of the Durametric tool is that they sent it to us to test and fixed problems that we saw and added features that we wanted. I own a PST2 so I do not have to use the Durametric software - I do think it is a good DIY level tool. We have many members that are techs now or have ventured out to start their own shops - so you are not alone here. Most independent shops that I know of buy the best tool(s) they can afford for some that is an $18,000 PIWIS, for others that is a $3600 used PST2, and for yet others it is the $700 Durametric Pro kit.

On a RoW MY01 Boxster S the taper roller bearing is different on each side of the pinion shaft. Item 5 and item 6. 999.059.066.02 taper roller bearing (item 5) 999.059.064.00 taper roller bearing (item 6)

Please re-read the board rules and guidelines that you agreed to when you registered here. Commercial posts are not allowed nor is flaming individuals or companies. If you did not work for competing company your comments would be just "your opinion" - being that you do work for a competing company it is a flame and will not be tolerated in the future. If you believe your company makes a better tool then by all means tell us what it can do. Better yet send an evaluation to one of our staff to be reviewed and evaluated. This particular thread is intended to be a Registry of folks willing to help others (for free) with the diagnostic tool(s) that they have whether it be PST2, PIWIS, or Durametric Software. In the future if you wish to discuss a new or different tool - please start a new thread. Thank you.

I suggest: 1. Have your battery tested at a car parts store. 2. If it is okay, then measure the load (amps) when the car is off - should be around 40-60 ma). If it is more pull fuses one at a time until the drain goes away. When the fuse you pull brings the load back down to 40-60 ma then you have found the cicuit with the problem. Once you've done that report back here what fuse and we'll tell you what is on the circuit and suggest what to look for.

:welcome:

Hmm... they are separate fuses too. Unlikely that both fans or ballasts would die at the same time. Can you turn on the purge fan (engine compartment)? Almost makes me think there is a DME problem...

Ok, you want wheel well liner parts... Item 7 996.504.503.03 Left rubber lip 996.504.504.03 Right rubber lip Item 8 996.504.603.02 Left air duct 996.504.604.01 Right air duct

:thumbup:

See my post #6... 996.613.980.00 is the gloss switch.