Loren

Ok, I was just teasing. ;) Don't be afraid of this it not very hard to do.

Anyone has a pic of where these infamous rivets are located? Thanks, Gus Did you read the DIY instructions? They are on the wheel well liners.

Model and model year of your car?

Sorry but some of your information is not correct. Since the 987 and 997 have different redlines how could they have the same starting ranges. They are not the same for all models. What RFM stated above (for the 987) is correct. ANd , what I stated above is correct for 997. Fuel cutoff can not help you if you miss a downshift and force the motor to run too fast. The rev limiter protects the motor for normal over revs but can not prevent damage from missed downshifts or other mechanical overruns (like spinning the car and running the engine backwards).

I posted ranges for a 997: The 6 ranges are: Range 1: 7300-7500 RPM Range 2: 7500-7700 RPM Range 3: 7700-7900 RPM Range 4: 7900-8400 RPM Range 5: 8400-9500 RPM Range 6: 9500-11000 RPM You really don't need to worry about anything other than ranges 4 to 6. So the only one that is different is range 1 (by 100 RPM).

1. Left front - behind the mud splash guard. 2. Similar to the 996 the back switch is on the top right side of the transmission (more towards the center) 3. I assume no visible leaks. Checked the gas cap? I would try to see if the smell is stronger towards the front (carbon tank) or the back (expansion tank).

topmech0 is correct. If you disconnect the battery on a C4, C4S or TT with under 1/4 tank - you will need to get the tank re-calibrated using a PST2 or PIWIS. Those cars use a "saddle bag" gas tank and the sensor is only on one side. So one side of the tank is "estimated" on the fuel gauge - based on the a specific amount of fuel in the tank at calibration time. If you lose that calibration setting by disconnecting the battery (with a low tank) the tank/cluster has no guess as to remaining fuel and MUST be re-calibrated. As I recall there is a warning about this in the Owners Manual.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=33634

Yes, there is a filter there also - but again there is no call to replace it unless there is contamination or damage.

Try 6766 or 6764

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=24349 Centering left to right is the same. The only difference on the Mk1 aerokit rear wing is that the the logo is placed 50 mm from the bottom edge of the lid.

Try 1489 or 1487

You need to get your firmware version checked - and if it does not work they need to replace it under warranty.

Most fixed spoilers I have seen replace the whole rear deck lid. Are you sure the one you are getting doesn't do the same?

Have a look at this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=72289

1. Pivot adjustable sun visor to its normal position. 2. Carefully insert a screwdriver between roof lining and pivot bearing 7 (arrow G) and release cover (arrow H). Remove pivot bearing. 3. Unscrew fastening screws 8. 4. Remove sun visor and release electric plug connection. 5. Unclip sun visor 9 and carefully lower it (arrow I), until the plug 11 is accessible 6. Release the locking tab 10 for the electrical plug connection (arrow K) and pull off the plug 11 (arrow L ). 7. Remove sun visor 9.

There is no service requirement for the fuel filter (since the returnless fuel system was introduced in MY02). It is integrated in the fuel pump (item 4 above) and unless there is contamination there is no need to replace it.

Try 9036 or 9034

Front bumper is easy enough. The side skirts for a Mk1 areokit are held in place with epoxy - that takes 24 hours to cure. So I think you should do that at home where the car can sit for at least 24 hours.

:thumbup:

No wonder - the CEL is on... :lol:

Joint sealer - it shows differently on different paint colors.

Well, the injector could still be working somewhat. It could be just not letting the right amount of fuel in - or sticking open and always letting fuel in. I guess unless you have a way to measure the fuel injector cycle (oscilloscope) then you don't know for sure if it cycling properly. So, if the injector is getting the 12 volts (as stated above) then chances are the injector is bad.

Loren, my battery is totally dead. I have searched for and read every post on this emergency cable and still haven't been able to find it to release my front hood. I have a USA 2002 Boxster S, have felt everywhere that seems logical in the top of the left and right wheel wells, behind the coil, pulling away the plastic liner. You mention the "left" wheel well, is that also the driver side wheel well on this car? Also, I found instructions both here and on another site that described an unlocking sequence that should have popped my hood, using a battery charger to that red pull out fuse, with the left door open, turn the charger on, the alarm goes off, then push the door latch to the closed position, lock and unlock the door and then open the hood. Multiple attempts at that failed also. Do you have any ideas here? I'm now getting a little desperate. Thanks, Mike Um... I can understand that you've seen this question a lot, AND there's other info out there that clouds the issue, especially when half the posts here talk about using a battery charger to open the trunk and that rarely works for anyone, and nearly everyone has trouble finding the emergency release cable the first time. I've some time scouring the web for more info, and found this. You'll note that the "driver side" wheel well is ambiguous,thus my question about which wheel well. Also the descriptions of location often mention the cable is "AFT of the coil tower" but on your site folks have mentioned it being in front of the tower: Front and Rear Hood Release Inoperative [grp5 1/96 5510 1/21/97] 1pg Should the front and rear hood releases become inoperative due to a disconnected or discharged battery, the following procedure will allow the hoods to be operated electrically under these conditions. • Open the left door. • Using an external battery, connect the negative lead to the door stop. • Connect the positive lead to both sides of fuse "C3" (see illustration below). • With the door open, move the door latch with a screwdriver into the closed position. • Using the key, lock and unlock the door. • The front and rear hood releases can now be operated. Note: If the vehicle is in the workshop and the battery must be disconnected, try to park the vehicle in a safe area where it is not necessary to latch the front hood. The diagram shows the same stuff as the bulleted directions above except it shows putting a 30 amp fuse between the external battery positive terminal and the C3 fuse. [Note: none of this worked, however one poster here mentioned removing the key from the door and inserting it into the ignition and turning it and that silenced the alarm and allowed for the hood release to operate. I will try that sequence tomorrow before attempting the cable release mystery tour again.] 7.9 Accessing the Battery when it is Dead The Boxster has a minor difficulty. If you have the alarm and the battery goes dead, you cannot open the front trunk to get to the battery to jump start it. There have been three techniques discussed for entering the front trunk when this problem manifests itself. 1. There is a Porsche Technical Bulletin describing one way that works for entering the car. See Front and Rear Hood Release Inoperative [grp5 1-96 5510 1-21-97]. A description of what one owner did to construct the device mentioned in the bulletin is shown at http://grr.xoc.net/boxster/articles/dooropener.asp . 2. It may work that a cigarette lighter to cigarette lighter jumper cable will power the car enough to open the car. This has not been confirmed to work, though. Make sure that you carry the jumper cables in the passenger section of the car, otherwise you won't be able to get them when they are needed! 3. Inside the top of the driver's front wheel well, just aft of the spring coil mount, is a little rectangular corner in the black plastic shroud that lines the inside of the wheel well. Reach under this, and you will feel a "wire" about 1/8" in diameter. Too thick for an electrical wire (and not in a harness anyway). Now tug this cable gently out from behind the shroud and get a good grip on a loop of it. Now pull hard away from the headlight once, and prepare to hear the music of the alarm as the front hood pops open. Grab a 10mm wrench and take off one of the battery cables to silence this thing until you can get your key in the ignition and disarm the thing. Disconnect the alarm horn, re-connect something with power to the battery leads, and unlock your car. Mike The cable is behind the right front bumper area - period. Sometimes you can reach between the wheel well liner and bumper and find it. In other cases you need to pull the wheel well liner partially out to find it. The jumper position at the fuse box is also true - but only for MY01 an newer cars. So if you don't have the fuse block connection that is not an option on your car.

I guess you didn't see my previous 5 radio code posts - today alone. Maybe we should stop doing this? :angry: Try 0864 or 0862