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Loren

Admin
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Everything posted by Loren

  1. :welcome: Please try our Search feature - window regulators have been covered here.
  2. The recommended change is at 120,000 miles/180,000 km or 12 years. I think it is the same spec as 996 but refill after a change is 2.6 liters. So far there have been no "Approved transmission oils" TSBs for the 997.
  3. 997.101.212.00 RMS The housing and o-ring will depend on your engine number. Most often the problem on the IMS leak is the 3 bolts that hold the housing and o-ring in place - these should be the newer self-encapsulated screws that seal them selves. 999.217.150.99
  4. One honk means 1 zone is open. Most common are the center console cover or the front hood microswitch.
  5. Did you loosen the brackets as the DIY calls out? What is it hitting on?
  6. :welcome: P1123 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Lean Threshold P1125 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Lean Threshold (DTC 357) This says your DME senses that the mixture is too rich and it can not correct for it by leaning the mixture. P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold (DTC 360) P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold (DTC 361) This says your DME senses that the mixture is too lean and it can not correct for it by making the mixture rich. Very odd to see these four codes together. Any mods? Have you cleaned the MAF recently? Perhaps you should tell us more about the car...
  7. The are two small (cheap) self-tapping nuts on the back side.
  8. Fault code 46 Driver's belt buckle - Incorrect coding - Short circuit to B+/ground or open circuit in the wiring between the driver's belt buckle and the airbag triggering unit - Driver's belt buckle faulty - Triggering unit for airbag faulty I do not think the CD could have had anything to do with it. 9 times out of 10 it is a bad connection at the drivers side seat belt buckle. I would try cleaning the connection. If it persists replace the buckle assembly.
  9. Here is the complete Cruise Circuit for a MY99 car. The clutch switch is easy to jumper so you can confirm or eliminate it.
  10. The best way to check the fans is the runs the tests in a PST2 or PIWIS tester. That would confirm whether it is a fan (ballast, relay) problem or a stuck thermostat.
  11. Are you sure it is oily and no just brake dust and tire dust? Any oil on the bottom side of the engine?
  12. 955.631.115.00 Left headlamp gasket -- MSRP $42.08 955.631.116.00 Right headlamp gasket -- MSRP $42.08 I'm not sure about the other part you are asking about - is it in the diagram?
  13. Have you put the Durametric software or a PST2 on it to see what eh MAF is doing. And also TRA and FRA. Sure sounds like an air leak somewhere (cracked oil filer, bad o-ring in oil filler cap, etc.).
  14. I think Jeff (Tool Pants) posted one we saw a few years ago at Tim Benson's in Santa Cruz. He ran a Boxster that had -1 (as I recall) in the Stage 2 category. We could not figure how you could get a Stage 2 over-rev with a Tiptronic!
  15. You must mean the right front fender (left to right as you sit in the car). The gas filler is on the right. You could have a stuck fuel tank vent valve or a crimped fuel hose.
  16. If the car will not lock/arm with the key fob buttons - start with a new battery in the key fob.
  17. You will also need to remove the left (as you sit in the car) wheel well liner to get full access to the radiator and mounting. If you pinch the hoses with clamps you will lose the minimal amount of coolant. follow the bleeding instructions in my 3rd radiator DIY in the 996 DIY Mods section. The "rubbery/plastic things for guiding the air to the radiator" is just called air duct and you will need to order it by side of the car too.
  18. Terminal 30 is always unswitched power (+12 volts) Terminal 31 is always ground
  19. Yeah, slbates is right now that I see a pic I remember they are not the push pin type. Must be old age creeping up on me... ;)
  20. this is great news! are the plastic rivets bolt on? or do they require a special tool to install the lip? also OT, Loren have you ever been stumped by a question on this board =X As I recall the rivets are just push on - similar (if not the same as the wheel well liners). :lol: :lol: :lol: I get stumped all the time... then I look things up, ask more knowledgeable people, and ask the poster more questions to help clarify the issue. With the help of lots of folks on this site someone usually steps up and helps. I think we are right more often here than your local dealer - and I think that is because of all the experienced Porsche fanatics here. At least that is my feeling...
  21. There is a TSB that explains it all in detail. As a Contributing Member you can read all the TSBs here online.
  22. Just a few points of clarification... When you program a key you must have ALL the keys present. There are only 4 key slots available in the immobilizer - so max keys is 4. When you replace a bad key you need the good keys so you know which key code is the bad one to program over. If don't have all the keys present you run the risk of programming over a good key and leaving the bad key program in the immobilizer (wasting a spot or disabling another key). As Kim said the key blank (blade, metal part) must be cut to fit the car (ignition and door). Never buy a "new" or "never used" key without the 24 digit key code tag. Without the tag the key is worthless and can be programmed to a car.
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