Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Loren

Admin
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    37,523

  • Joined

  • Days Won

    569

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Loren

  1. Loren
    That would depend on how much you want to change (i.e. just the front). Either way unless you buy the parts from a salvage yard it will be expensive.
  2. Loren
    Only if you have PSM. And, the manual says check and calibrate if needed. The alignment shop does not have to do it -- any shop or person with a PST2 or PIWIS could check it and calibrate it if needed.
  3. Loren
    Try 9387 or 9385
  4. Loren
    No, not on 996 series cars. 997 series cars with sport crono do this when you switch to sport mode. As I recall in Sport mode two wheels have to (start to) lock before ABS kicks in.
  5. Loren
    Three times I have told you in responses to your posts and once in a Personal Message - how to do this... You need to readthe information at the link below and follow the instructions... then click on the link in the instructions and post a reply in that thread - I WILL NOT ANSWER RADIO CODE REQUESTS OUTSIDE OF THAT ONE THREAD. Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  6. Loren
    I don't think there is a door ajar alarm - unless you mean the door is open like when the key is in the ignition. The chime will also sound if there the seat belt is not buckled - but it stops after a few seconds. Do you get any warning lights?
  7. Loren
    Sounds like a loose front swaybar. Check the mounts. and links.
  8. Loren
    Terminals 30, 31, and 15 are: 31 - Ground usually a solid brown wire 30 - Unswitched +12 volts (wire color will depend on model and year of your car) 15 - Switched +12 volts (wire color will depend on model and year of your car) Thanks for that but I am trying to work out which terminals on the control unit (996 618 537 03) need to be connected to the ground, switched and unswitched 12 volts. The terminals have numbers and are labelled but in German Cheers Matt Sorry, without model and year of the car I can't help you -- I need to know which schematic to look at... Ahh, ok, 2003 996 turbo. Thanks Matt
  9. Loren
    There is a list here of people with testers that are willing to help. Including me - and i have both a PST2 and PIWIS.
  10. Loren
    Terminals 30, 31, and 15 are: 31 - Ground usually a solid brown wire 30 - Unswitched +12 volts (wire color will depend on model and year of your car) 15 - Switched +12 volts (wire color will depend on model and year of your car) Thanks for that but I am trying to work out which terminals on the control unit (996 618 537 03) need to be connected to the ground, switched and unswitched 12 volts. The terminals have numbers and are labelled but in German Cheers Matt Sorry, without model and year of the car I can't help you -- I need to know which schematic to look at...
  11. Loren
    Porsche says - no antiseize.
  12. Loren
    Nope, you need to prep it and paint it.
  13. Loren
    Thank you very much for the reply Mr.Admin. done it already coil has no cracks~ How is it to change the spark plugs? just curious about the access to them? pretty easy? thanks http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=12659
  14. Loren
    :thumbup:
  15. Loren
    I am saying you need to bypass the alarm box altogether and run the key (via relays) to run the starter and deliver power to the engine DME. If you don't feel comfortable doing this then find someone local that has built a kit car. This likely will be just one of that many workarounds you will need to do (IMHO).
  16. Loren
    C2S gets a different master cylinder (997.355.910.10) - that is the only other part I see when looking at the parts list.
  17. Loren
    Terminals 30, 31, and 15 are: 31 - Ground usually a solid brown wire 30 - Unswitched +12 volts (wire color will depend on model and year of your car) 15 - Switched +12 volts (wire color will depend on model and year of your car)
  18. Loren
    So taking the car to them is a must. If I carry them the car, and the box turns out to be bad, do I have to have it reprogramed again(the key) for the new box? Basically yes. You must have a working alarm/door lock/drive block control to start the car - unless you decide to bypass that whole system. Is that an option and still keep the porsche engine/ engine ecu? Please excuse all my questions, this car has got to have the most PITA alarm/starting stuff EVER! Still wondering about this? I do not see anything on the DME 5.2.2 schematic that would keep it from running without the alarm box.
  19. Loren
    Try 9019 or 9017
  20. Loren
    I have not seen a car that can not have OBC turned on yet.
  21. Loren
    On the drivers side up under the dash.
  22. Loren
    Try 2290 or 2288 OK I tried these 2 codes & I tried 2292 & 2286 to no avail.... Any other codes I should try ? Also any way to get around the 1 hour wait period? Should I just call Becker? Or wont they help? Thanks again for the great resource! :renntech: You need to read this... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST I did, kind sir. So you are saying that I'm in the 5% ? Or should I continue to search #s in the 2 digit ranges? How far either side of your suggested # should I go? Yes, if the two numbers I gave you don't work then you can try 2 digit increments/decrements until you get tired and call a dealer - or get lucky.
  23. Loren
    Where are you located?
  24. Loren
    If it was a loud banging noise then chances are it is a broken intermediate shaft (sorry).
  25. Loren
    Try 2290 or 2288 OK I tried these 2 codes & I tried 2292 & 2286 to no avail.... Any other codes I should try ? Also any way to get around the 1 hour wait period? Should I just call Becker? Or wont they help? Thanks again for the great resource! :renntech: You need to read this... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.