Loren

The 2009 turbos are new regardless of whether the car is a Turbo or Turbo S. The 2009 Turbos are a different part number. 2008 Cyl 1-4 turbo: 948.123.025.52 2008 Cyl 5-8 turbo: 948.123.026.52 2009 Cyl 1-4 turbo: 948.123.025.53 2009 Cyl 5-8 turbo: 948.123.026.53

Hi, It seems that the DIY link posted here is for 996 series (Carrera) . I am still having problem finding plugs for Boxster after I removed the wheels. The picture posted on the link is different from what I saw for Boxster. Does anyone have pictures for the removal of 986 (Boxster) plugs? Thanks for your help. Steve Remove the heat shield and the coils should obvious.

Perhaps RFM knows...

If you increase the offset by 7 mm you will need 7 mm longer bolts.

If you have spacers and the washer is red in color then they are 50 mm. Otherwise they are 45 mm standard length.

Budget is certainly not the issue, as you may recall from past exchanges, Ben. And deciding to stay with factory springs and sways does not equal going "bits and pieces". "Best option for the street" isn't helpful, but thank you. What "best" and which "street" are the key questions for suspension choices if you really care about performance. Of course I remember that of course budget is not an issue for ya. That's why we're all still driving 996s and especially for you, an MK1 996 with the beloved Boxster headilghts that receives all-season beating. And what of performance? Aside from getting responses like "this worked great for me," trying to come to some sort of meaningful suspension/handling conclusion around "performance," especially over the internet, is a sisyphean challenge. My point is, all these options will be just fine for the daily 911: ROW M030, Bilstein shocks with OEM springs, PSS9s, etc. For those on a budget, go with the new aftermarket shocks with factory springs options. If you have more money to spend, PSS9s are a no brainer. If you have no budget, then heck handle your business and go for a full Moton setup. Thx for reading, buddy. :) You keep skipping past the part where I don't want to lower the car. then don't? BruceP was clear from his first post "I don't want to lower the car, and I don't want to radically stiffen the ride." Please keep this on topic - and not personal in your remarks. Thanks. PSS9s meet both those requirements and if there is no budget then PSS9s give you the ability to go even softer than matching aftermarket shocks with stock springs. If not for Bruce, I'm certainly speaking for others who may run into this very same thread/predicament. If they're on a budget, sure, go with the shocks. Loren, I'm not clear how I'm being personal here and not on-topic. Respectfully, Ben Ben, PSS 9s lower the car. I am more than aware of the history between you two - keep it civil and not condescending. This thread is not an argument or a battle of preferences between two people - BruceP asked for suggestions - you have made your suggestions - move on. All I'm saying is, PSS9s are adjustable meaning you don't have to lower your car. Heck, you can increase the height if you want for SUV level practicality in the urban jungle that is Toronto (lovely city). The highest setting on PSS 9s are still lower than both US and RoW sport suspensions.

You can likely get by without one if you position the clutch driven disk before tightening the pressure plate. I have "eye-balled" these a number of times with no problem.

Try 9181 or 9179 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

MY05 was the first production year for the 997-1 so you might want to go with newest model you can afford. If the car is CPO from a Porsche dealer then I think (in most cases) you can forgo the PPI.

Try 8929 or 8927 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

Budget is certainly not the issue, as you may recall from past exchanges, Ben. And deciding to stay with factory springs and sways does not equal going "bits and pieces". "Best option for the street" isn't helpful, but thank you. What "best" and which "street" are the key questions for suspension choices if you really care about performance. Of course I remember that of course budget is not an issue for ya. That's why we're all still driving 996s and especially for you, an MK1 996 with the beloved Boxster headilghts that receives all-season beating. And what of performance? Aside from getting responses like "this worked great for me," trying to come to some sort of meaningful suspension/handling conclusion around "performance," especially over the internet, is a sisyphean challenge. My point is, all these options will be just fine for the daily 911: ROW M030, Bilstein shocks with OEM springs, PSS9s, etc. For those on a budget, go with the new aftermarket shocks with factory springs options. If you have more money to spend, PSS9s are a no brainer. If you have no budget, then heck handle your business and go for a full Moton setup. Thx for reading, buddy. :) You keep skipping past the part where I don't want to lower the car. then don't? BruceP was clear from his first post "I don't want to lower the car, and I don't want to radically stiffen the ride." Please keep this on topic - and not personal in your remarks. Thanks. PSS9s meet both those requirements and if there is no budget then PSS9s give you the ability to go even softer than matching aftermarket shocks with stock springs. If not for Bruce, I'm certainly speaking for others who may run into this very same thread/predicament. If they're on a budget, sure, go with the shocks. Loren, I'm not clear how I'm being personal here and not on-topic. Respectfully, Ben Ben, PSS 9s lower the car. I am more than aware of the history between you two - keep it civil and not condescending. This thread is not an argument or a battle of preferences between two people - BruceP asked for suggestions - you have made your suggestions - move on.

Guess I got thrown because I started looking in the 997-1 Maintenance forums, and there were only two topics, both unrelated to brakes. There's a wealth of stuff in the 997-1 forums; I just didn't bother to go beyond the first coupla pages. I'll mic my rotors this weekend, and I also need to find the minimum pad thicknesses before I attend a local high performance driving class in May. For a 997-1 S: New pad thickness should be 12.0 mm both front and rear. Minimum wear thickness 2 mm. Personally, I would would not a track a car with less than 4 mm. Thanks Loren! The school requires a minimum of 50% pad thickness or 6mm in my case. Cheers Good - that was exactly my point.

Budget is certainly not the issue, as you may recall from past exchanges, Ben. And deciding to stay with factory springs and sways does not equal going "bits and pieces". "Best option for the street" isn't helpful, but thank you. What "best" and which "street" are the key questions for suspension choices if you really care about performance. Of course I remember that of course budget is not an issue for ya. That's why we're all still driving 996s and especially for you, an MK1 996 with the beloved Boxster headilghts that receives all-season beating. And what of performance? Aside from getting responses like "this worked great for me," trying to come to some sort of meaningful suspension/handling conclusion around "performance," especially over the internet, is a sisyphean challenge. My point is, all these options will be just fine for the daily 911: ROW M030, Bilstein shocks with OEM springs, PSS9s, etc. For those on a budget, go with the new aftermarket shocks with factory springs options. If you have more money to spend, PSS9s are a no brainer. If you have no budget, then heck handle your business and go for a full Moton setup. Thx for reading, buddy. :) You keep skipping past the part where I don't want to lower the car. then don't? BruceP was clear from his first post "I don't want to lower the car, and I don't want to radically stiffen the ride." Please keep this on topic - and not personal in your remarks. Thanks.

Guess I got thrown because I started looking in the 997-1 Maintenance forums, and there were only two topics, both unrelated to brakes. There's a wealth of stuff in the 997-1 forums; I just didn't bother to go beyond the first coupla pages. I'll mic my rotors this weekend, and I also need to find the minimum pad thicknesses before I attend a local high performance driving class in May. For a 997-1 S: New pad thickness should be 12.0 mm both front and rear. Minimum wear thickness 2 mm. Personally, I would would not a track a car with less than 4 mm.

Try 2587 or 2595 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

Here I go replying to my own post. I did a search like I was SUPPOSED to, and came up with the answer. Here's a link to the forum page: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...8&hl=rotors, and scroll down to Post #6. Cheers You posted a 997-1 question in the 996 area - which could be why you not replies.

First one took almost 8 or 9 hrs. I couldn't figure out how to get the axel out of the wheel carrier. Then i hit it with a hammer and loosened it. Last resort worked. The other side took only 2.5hrs start to finish. Thats including taking pictures. And working by myself. Certainly having 2 people would make things go easier. Put your Location into profile so folks can see where "local" is. We do a Work On Cars Days in few areas.

Try 8945 or 4943 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

Try 5059 or 5057 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

I already answered your first post on this - READ THE FAQ! FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS! Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

P0021 Adjustment of Inlet Camshaft in relation to Crankshaft, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible Possible cause of fault - Dirt in oil circuit - Sealing strips on inlet camshaft adjuster faulty - Oil pressure too low - Mechanical fault in inlet camshaft adjuster - Magnetic hydraulic valve faulty

If your cluster came from a C4 or C4S then the gas gauge will be wrong. Those are 4WD cars and the gas tank configuration is different. If the cluster came from one of those it will need to be reset. If you want the outside air temperature then you will need to add a sensor at the front bumper. All Carrera's had this sensor so I don't recall a way to turn it off with a PST2.

Please read this and follow the instructions... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST