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Loren

Admin
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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Brad, You are forgetting the timing chain tensioners that grenaded many of the 901/911 engines if they failed under heavy load. Both my first -6 and my 70 911 lost timing chains, fortunately not suddenly at high rpm. And then there were the exploding air boxes. ... and don't forget the plastic chain rails that splintered and caused the cam chains to jump a few teeth - sending a valve through a piston. Oh, and cam covers that warped so bad new ones would leak again in two weeks (I'd best stop there ;) )
  2. Try 9114 or 9112 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  3. Yes, you can disconnect the MAF for testing. The car will not rev well past 4500 RPM without the MAF (and likely cause a CEL). Since you have the Durametric software why not look at he idle MAF reading and the 2500 RPM no load MAF readings - if they are not between 12-24 Air mass ML in kg/h at idle and 40-70 Air mass ML in kg/h at 2500 RPM then you likely have a bad MAF.
  4. Try 9481 or 9479 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  5. Try 0626 or 0624 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  6. Widebody (Turbo and C4S only) From Carnewal.com "The factory X73 retrofit kits lowers the RoW cars 20mm all around and the US cars 40mm (1.6") in the front and 30mm (1.2") in the rear. It gives the car a sportier ride without becoming too harsh and an attractive look."
  7. Thickness is measure as in your second picture - outside to outside of the rotor.
  8. Front Pad Set (different part numbers for different years) -- US MSRP $365.92 Rear Pad Set (different part numbers for different years) -- US MSRP $385.03 You don't want to replace the ceramic rotors though - about US MSRP $4000 each!
  9. Look at your rotors and pads too. If you over cooked the brakes you could have left pad deposits on the rotors and distorted the pads.
  10. Steel brakes or PCCB (ceramic)?
  11. "General information on replacing worn PCCB brake discs Three criteria governing the condition of the parts can make replacement necessary depending on the wear of PCCB brake discs: 1. Surface changes in the brake disc friction surfaces (material fatigue/wear) at an advanced stage (indication of wear: associated friction surface damage > 1 cm2). 2. Surface roughness of the brake disc friction surfaces too great (roughness depends on mileage and load). 3. Brake disc minimum thickness is not attained due to wear (material erosion due to friction). - In practice, all three forms of brake disc erosion usually occur. - Only in rare cases (in the case of long-term race driving brake loads/very high temperatures on the friction surfaces) does the surface change so quickly that a premature brake disc change has to be performed. - Blue discs on the brake disc chamber and/or strongly colored brake calipers indicate a long-term, sustained high load, on a racing circuit, for example."
  12. Do you mean the yellow fitting on the brake booster vacuum line? If not perhaps a pic would help.
  13. There is a kit to retrofit the self dimming mirror - but it does not have an exploded view. All I can do is guess what other parts you need. You might want to give the folks at Sunset Imports a call and see if they know which additional parts you will need.
  14. Try 8865 or 8863 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  15. If the shock is broken at the shaft or mounting point there may be no oil - unusual but possible.
  16. Try 8894 or 8892 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  17. DIY Upgraded Ignition Switch/Lock Installation for 996/Boxster Should be 996.347.017.07 Steering lock assemnly -- US MSRP $152.45
  18. Those look like factory suspension parts. Is there a white compensating washer on both side of the same axle? If not then someone has changed things and left a part out. The other possibility is a bad spring or a totally broken strut. Best get it checked by a reliable alignment/suspension shop. Where are you located?
  19. No, you shouldn't. You can choose to replace just the electrical switch (95% of the time the only problem) or the whole key/lock mechanism. The key/lock mechanism is the long term fix - but it cost about $150 just for the parts.
  20. Talk to Eric at BumperPlugs.com. Tell him we sent you.
  21. Then perhaps it is the switch - usually if you can wiggle the switch and it works then the switch is worn out.
  22. I would talk the dealer into re-programming the PDK using the latest PIWIS version (241). If there is a fix it would be in the latest version - either way it would not hurt anything to do that.
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