Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Loren

Admin
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    37,527

  • Joined

  • Days Won

    571

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Loren

  1. Loren
    :welcome: The start lock relay is on the relay/DME panel under the carpet behind the rear seats. Are you sure you have a relay problem and not the clutch starter interlock microswitch problem?
  2. Loren
    Yes, that is correct. For MY2001 there was a part change mid model year so you have to check the VIN to see which RoW M030 springs are correct for your VIN.
  3. Loren
    Corrosion and bad crimps or chewed wires. All are possible as well as another sensor failure. P1115 Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit P1119 Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit Possible causes: - Contact resistance. - Heating resistance too high. - Open circuit in heating current circuits. - Open circuit in H02S signal wire. - Short to B+ (output stage cut off). No such code as P1033 - perhaps it's P0133? P0133 Signal Period for Oxygen Sensor Aging, Bank 1 – Above/Below Limit Possible causes: - Oxygen sensor
  4. Loren
    Try 4426 or 4424 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST no dice with either of those two codes. Any other suggestions? Thanks! Yes, please read the FAQ.
  5. Loren
    Try 4426 or 4424 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  6. Loren
    I sent you a PM.
  7. Loren
    All of these are dealer/OPC correctable problems. If your dealer/OPC can not correct them find another dealer or contact your countries Porsche office and ASK for help.
  8. Loren
    Try 0365 or 0363 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  9. Loren
    This is a fairly common problem. You can find many similar posts here. I would start by cleaning the throttle body and idle control valve.
  10. Loren
    Well, you can install them yourself but I suggest a pro/racing alignment shop after the install.
  11. Loren
    Hmm... they used to have them. You could also go with GT3 brakes and wheel carriers...
  12. Loren
    As stated in the FAQ - the only place you can get a PCM code is from a dealer. Sorry.
  13. Loren
    You can buy the parts from TRG.
  14. Loren
    Have the battery checked for both load and specific gravity.
  15. Loren
    Find someone with the Durametric software, a PST2 or PIWIS. Without the code everything is just a guess.
  16. Loren
    The actual fault code will tell you exactly where the problem is.
  17. Loren
    Try 2932 or 2930 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  18. Loren
    Could be cable or could be a worn out shifter socket. I think Tool Pants posted some pics of worn out shifter sockets and the alignment tool(s).
  19. Loren
    Try FVD.
  20. Loren
    Try 6477 or 6475 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST I have tried 6477 6475 6473 6479 6481 and 6469. Do you have any other suggestions? Please READ the FAQ.
  21. Loren
    Where are you located (city)? Perhaps someone can help you out if they are near.
  22. Loren
    Not the answer I am sure you want to hear... Fault code 54 -- Radio receiver defective Possible cause of fault - Alarm system control module faulty Work instruction: 1. Replace alarm system control module. I guess it is time to use the CPO.
  23. Loren
    With some work yes. You will need the front wheel carriers from a GT2 and new real wheel carriers (from TT, C4S, or GT2) - then the brakes will bolt up. Some aftermarket companies sell kits for this.
  24. Loren
    Try 6601 or 6599 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST
  25. Loren
    Referencing the valve mentioned in the first post as "2. EVAP Solenoid (Shut off Valve)", and the one Loren pointed out in the DIY, is this the valve that doesn't open when there is difficulty putting fuel in the car? My car wouldn't accept fuel a few days ago. It splashed back and out as described in some of the other messages here. Standing there I remembered some of the posts about this problem, so I took my palm and pounded on the top of the fender. I heard a creaking/popping noise for about 3 seconds and then I was able to pump fuel into the car. Is this the other solenoid that Loren was referring to in the DIY about the flap solenoid? If so, is there any way to lube it or repair this "sticking" problem without changing the solenoid, or is exchange the solution? Are any special tools or precautions required for this effort? Any input anyone can provide on the solution is very welcome. A part number would help a lot if that's available. The car is a 2003 Targa. The valve that is in question item and is at the top center of the photo.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.