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Loren

Admin
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Everything posted by Loren

  1. The pulleys go bad - especially on a 24 year old car. Check them for trueness and runout.
  2. Both the donor car and your car are e-throttle (drive-by-wire)? MY2000 was the first year for that so older throttle bodies would not work.
  3. Find a good Porsche shop in your area that has a PIWIS - likely 1/3 to 1/2 the cost.
  4. In most cases old key fobs have to be removed before adding new ones. Who programmed the new key fobs (and the car)?
  5. You can leave but Porsche owners always come back... 😀
  6. Start with the fuse...
  7. I would have the suspension pieces checked for damage or alignment issues. Also was your wheel runout checked as the wheel could be bent.
  8. The fault code number will determine the correct seat belt. Can you give us that number?
  9. Then it might be time to try re-programming the DME. Certainly before replacing the DME ($$$$).
  10. Likely cheaper to replace the purge valve than buy the tool.
  11. Are you using this procedure to bleed the clutch? Optional Clutch Bleeding This is best done when you are bleeding the left (driver's side) rear wheel as the clutch bleed valve is mounted high above the axle on the transmission. Push the clutch pedal in by hand (very slowly) and use a long piece of wood to hold the pedal down. I wedged the other end (of the wood) between the seat and door frame -- with plenty of soft padding to avoid scratches. A second option is to have a 2nd person sit in the car and keep the clutch pedal FULLY depressed. Open the clutch bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges (at least 30 seconds according to Porsche). Remove the wood. Then, pump the pedal again very slowly by hand for a further 60 seconds. After pressing the pedal down fully about 10 to 15 times, leave the pedal in its normal position. After allowing a fill time of 90 seconds, check that no more air bubbles appear at the bleeder valve (use a collecting bottle with a transparent hose). Then close the bleeder valve. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. You may notice that the clutch pedal does not return... so carefully pull it up (slowly) to it's normal position. Then depress it (slowly) a few (at least 5) times. In a few cycles the feel should return.
  12. If course you know that the clutch slave and the brakes share the same reservoir. So a leak in one may affect the other.
  13. Have checked your clutch pedal and boost spring to see that it is working correctly? Are you using a pressure bleeder (under 20 PSI)?
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